Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

50-65% Grenache blanc, 25-35% Clairette, 5-25% Roussanne (all 1993), from galet stone covered clay-limestone soils on Cansaud (S-E), very early harvesting, 75-95% steel vat (Gren blanc, Clairette) fermented at 16°C, 0-25% (Roussanne) fermented, raised in new year 228-litre oak casks 5-6 months, varieties assembled 1 month before bottling, malo blocked, 3,200-4,000 b

2018 ()

clear yellow robe; there’s a springy clarity on the nose, white fruits, aniseed, discreet citrus, spring flowers. The palate is elegant, fresh, has “iron”, and continues tight, taut even – the early harvesting springs to mind. This is bracing and direct, has discreet body, the flavour on white peach, roasted nuts. It’s very drinkable, close-knit Châteauneuf blanc. 13.5°. 50% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 20% Rouss. €25. 2029-31 Oct 2019

2015 ()

bright yellow robe. Has an engaging, flinty aroma, with freedom in its white fruits, good style, good width. The palate is expressive, with a silky run of white fruits, peach notably. It finishes with considered elegance, a fine point off saltiness. It takes something of an airborne route, has a deft manner. Steamed dishes, Japanese cuisine good with this. Very attractive. The aftertaste has tangy grip, a small note of bitter, which works fine. 13.5°. 3,000 b. 50% Gren bl, 30% Clair, 20% Rouss. All steel vat prepared. 2022-23 Sept 2016

2013 ()

pale yellow colour. Zesty pear, mandarin and peach aromas. The palate is lively, fresh and long, bears a pear and stone fruit flavour. Balanced and digestible wine that is drinking well now. 14°. 2020-21  JL Oct 2014

2011

pale robe, some shine. Has a citrus, mandarin zest, cooked apple aroma, has an under note of peanut – this bouquet shows a grounded, quite high octane style. The palate starts robustly – this has a full-on style with the grapes just about up to the cellar handling, emphasis. Solid Châteauneuf blanc: drink with foods such as spaghetti, soft cheese, vegetarian dishes. 14°. Bottled Feb 2012. 65% GB, 35% Cl, no oak, €18, 3,200 b this year. 2019-20  Dec 2012

2010 ()

rather bright pale yellow. Has a greengage plum-lemon air, shows a touch of candy, and lemon tart. The palate is direct, its depth measured, but is not really firing openly, is in a cautious state. Its acidity is gentle, and it just needs to wake up. The flavours are fine rather than robust. It has steely notes through the palate – I like its clarity. Decant. 14.5°. €17. 60% Gren bl, 35% Clair, 5% Rouss, bottled Feb 2012 this year. 2022-23 Dec 2011

2007

marked yellow colour; flan, crème patisserie aroma – there is a decent roll to this bouquet, an attractive curve to the white fruits in it. The palate has an enjoyably fresh start, with good filling in behind. Its flavour and texture are well-set – the flavour offering white fruits such as peach, butter, liquid honey. Beau, stylish wine, with a flourish of aniseed on the finish. To 2013. June 2008

2006

mid level yellow, pineapple colour; has an oak-jungle fruit aroma that suggests active cellar work – the formula of markedly ripe crop and oak casks, with fennel and licorice hovering. Air brings out pear and bonbon sweets as it settles. The bouquet remains more channelled than broad. There is a dried fruits, oak flavour here, with a fresh ending. A line of acidity runs through it, and the oak adds bulk to the final quarter. It is not at a very poised moment, what with the oak and early stages of life. The finish is tight-knit, the texture dry from its oaking. Not an aperitif wine; it is spot on with grilled fish – say sole, turbot, monkfish. A wine with wire in it, and I wonder how its second stage will come out, around 2011-12. 2015.  Jukly 2008

2005 ()

light yellow, a pear tone to the colour; pebbly nerve in the bouquet – dried fruits with a salty coating, what comes through with air is peach, in a pretty, expressive way. Like the nose, comes over with a flinty, rather sharp taste at first. But has spine and definite grip, and is an advance on previous more uneven whites from here. I’d still like a bit more richness. Softens with 15 minutes on both nose and palate, having been served at cellar temperature – so don’t leave too long in the fridge, or allow it to breathe and warm a little after the fridge. Candy, bonbon fruit on a much softer palate after two hours, and by day 2 – like a lot of white Châteauneufs – is prettier and more rounded. 14°. 2011-12 Aug 2007

2004

nose difficult to get into, some rather austere aroma. Rounded palate, pear and a bonbon sweets flavour, fair final acidity. Mild and modest wine. To 2009. October 2005, Denmark