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The Wines

33.3% each Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne (all 1940s) from sandy, clay-limestone galet stone soils on L'Étang, hand harvested, fermented, raised 100% new oak since 2003 (half new oak, half vat before) 8-9 months, lees stirred, malo sometimes completed, 2-3,000 b

2017

steady yellow colour. The nose is peachy, spiced, has a white plum air as well. This has weight, and that shows right away on the palate, which bears coated content, has mass, flavours of dried fruits, quince, roasted nuts. It’s powerful, and requires pairing with sauced white meats, for example. It ends with a roasted note, charge. The vintage effect means it’s not that well balanced. 14.5°. 2,600 b. 34% Gren bl, 33% Rouss, 33% Clair. Bottled June 2018. 2027-28 Oct 2018

2016

rather full yellow. There’s a Roussanne influence, with oak, on the nose – a grapey, musky presence, apricot notes with a little freshness. It’s well together. The palate is well filled with a dried fruits flavour, apricot and peach, peanut. It holds a good line of freshness, and is tasty, upbeat, in style. There is cooked citrus fruit on the aftertaste, with some detail via its clear notes. There is an oak theme along the palate – not overdone, but present. This will be good with steamed monkfish, pork risottos. 14.5°. 2026-28 Jan 2018

2015

mottled yellow robe. Varnish, oak, beeswax combine on the nose, a minor note of cooked pear behind. It suggests a work in progress. The palate holds quite stylish content with oak flanking both sides, and playing a prominent role at present. The finish summons a salty concentration. Leave until 2018 to hope the oak subsides. There is a local glow of strength on the aftertaste: it’s a little top heavy. 14.5°. 3,000 b. Bottled July 2016. 2023-24 Sept 2016

2014 ()

full yellow robe. Oak stretches far and wide across the bouquet; there is a sense of apricot fruit within, a smoky tobacco hang in the air, caramel and brown sugar. If you like oak, come here. The palate gives a roll of textured flavour, with honey and white raisin present. The base matter is rich, quite fluid. Decant this, also wait until 2018. Sauced dishes, pigeon, goat cheese, plenty of food options. 14.5°. Bottled early Aug 2015. 2023-24  Oct 2015

2008

attractive pale yellow, legs down the glass. Waxen, dried fruits nose with oak-pineapple influences, high tone and banana – it is a zesty start overall. The palate is fleshy, but within limits on the start, holds tight dried fruits, and gains elegant length. It finishes successfully on honey, nougat, pistachio tones. The lively nose and the grounded palate are a good combination. 2016-18 Nov 2009

2007

evolving, some dark yellow notes. Oak-led bouquet that explains the colour, comes with toast airs, juniper, is quietly potent. The first flavour is the regulation neo vinification banana, but it takes on a burnt taste after half way, leading to a singed, stern finish. I am not sure it can get over this handling. Clumsy, excessive oak. Try from mid 2011, and cross dem fingers. Malo completed this year. 2017-18 Nov 2009

2006 ()

yellow robe; has an obvious bouquet led by honey, pineapple, supported by banana, peach, has an underlay of richness, is still tight. The flavour is deep-seated, has texture beyond the oak. The finale is good and rich, round and juicy. It ends firmly, on its oak. The richness is well established, the flavour flan-like. Wait for the wine, needs food, time. From spring 2010. 15°, malo completed. 2019-21 June 2008

2004 ()

friendly, buttery nose, wee kirsch aroma with it. The palate gives harmonious, ripe fruit with a baked flavour, bonbon sweets. There is a touch of alcohol at the end, which is a bit detached – danger lies ahead from that source. It has gras, but it stops, and the alcohol takes over. Shows oak. 2009-10  Nov 2006