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The Wines

80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre, 2% Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Counoise, Muscardin, Picpoul noir, 30-day vinification, whole bunch fermentation, pumping overs, a little part vat emptying/refilling, aged large oak barrels 6-8 months, then concrete vat 12-18 months, can be fined, unfiltered, organic, biodynamic wine, 15-35,000 b

2017 ()

(vat) sound red robe; liqueur red fruit, raspberry leads the nose, with some mint, cut, a light note of clove. The palate gets off to an agreeably fat kick-off, bears plush content, and holds on that well, provides layered pleasure. Good juice is liberated as it goes. It’s more graceful than many 2017s. From 2021. 2042-44 Feb 2019 Previously Oct 2018 *****(large barrel/concrete vat, bottling June 2019) full, dark red. The bouquet is promising, well varied already, with a beef stock, loganberry, deep black fruit presence. There is a shimmer of dusty heat from it. The palate is rich and rolling right from the start, engages very well with a flourishing length and spiced notes in the sparky, full finish. Lots of life blood here, a nourishing wine with genuine typicity, good vigour and cut. Not much more praise can be added. This lights my fuse, sure thing. Great in a magnum. 14.5°. From 2022. 2046-48 Oct 2018

2016

red robe. There are multiple prompts on the nose, a great start – red damson plums, spices, musky trails, a sensuous aroma. This bouquet will be a whopper, will ight The palate is very well upholstered, the second half is spiced, fat and delightfully gourmand. There’s a flexible chomp to the tannins. The balance is super good, the length very sure, and the clear finale is another bonus. This has great fruit, way to go. It’s just peeking out now. Bottled Nov 2018. 14.5°. 2048-50 Feb 2019 Previously Feb 2018 ***** (vat, bottling Sept 2018) attractive red robe. The nose has a stylish breadth, a line-up of clear red fruits, all in order, good potential, some pastille element in the fruit. The attack is tasty, flows well with richness on roller skates. This is sumptuous, a real knife and fork wine that comes with very good floral trimmings, elegance. There is wavy gras on the finish. This is mega tasty, and the balance is good. From 2023. 22,000 b. 2046-48 Feb 2018

2015

red robe with a bit of tiling in it; this has a really plump, rounded aroma, a seductive air of strawberry, clove and rose. The palate has a juicy, gourmand debut, comes with flexible tannins, is moving into good unison. There’s a floral-spice thread all through it, and it’s a very typical Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It finishes with the tannins still needing to absorb – they show their grain on the close. This is very appealing via its understated style. 14.5°. 2040-42 Feb 2019 Previously Feb 2018 **** fine red robe. The nose has aromas of free running raspberry fruits, floral appeal, delicacy, along with caramel. There’s refinement in the glass, smoky notes. It’s very far from the BIG WINE school of Châteauneuf. The palate is peppery, fluid, hands out a cool, pure Grenache pitter patter, en finesse. This is young, and will remain young, holds good detail. It is gentle, but within there is sure depth. It’s interesting and subtle, intricate. It ends on cool, menthol notes; there’s some crunch from the stems. 14.5°. 18,000 b. Bottled July 2017. From 2020-21. 2039-42 Feb 2018

2014 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED. “The wine was diluted, lacked aroma, sold in bulk.” Previously Oct 2015, before that decision: ***** (vat) dark red robe. Smoky, pine woods aroma, a backdrop of blackberry fruit, a gummy black fruit pastille quality about it. It has some southern heft. The palate presents a concentrated juiciness, with a cassis-blueberry fruit duo, licorice elements from the tannins, and a black pepper sign-off. This is well structured to develop: it is an unusually “dark” 2014, as if there is old vine fruit present (tasted blind), but that in turns lends a florality to it. This is lovely wine, STGT attributes spreading like feathers across it. The palate’s fullness means it demands leaving until mid-2018. 2032-34  Oct 2015

2013

has a Grenache red robe, medium depth. The bouquet is on wheels, on the move, floral, a Pandora’s box, dried herbs’ airs. It’s stimulating and local, a way to go nose. The palate links closely to the nose, has the concentration of juice of 2013, with tangy notes from the stems. It’s an aromatic, plum-fruited Grenache arriba wine. The finish is tight, rocky still. It’s very genuine, all close-knit. Decanting a good idea. 14.5°. Only 15,000 b this year. From 2020. 2035-37 Feb 2018

2012

a magnum: steady red colour; the bouquet is evolving openly, shows stewed, spiced fruits, very much in the domaine style, offers a curvy appeal. The palate is soft, textured, has a nicely sustained depth, and discreetly fresh tannins at the end. There’s real Grenache heart here. The length is good, with fresh spicing on the close. It’s just on the cusp of a second phase, delivers menthol on the exit, which gives interest. This is solid quality **** wine. 2037-40 Feb 2019 Previously Feb 2018 ****(*) 2 bottles tasted, 1st is dry, not flourishing. Bottle 2: red robe, light advance in it. The nose is reserved, with ripeness, inner richness, prune fruit, old Grenache depth, light coffee airs. The palate holds enjoyable gras richness, continues with a flow of spiced content. Its texture is oily and true, holds old vine sap [sève], in tiers through it. Interest, complexity here, is a wine with good momentum, a Road Runner. It delivers lots of imagination in the glass, has a bouncy, committed finale. 14.5°. 20,000 b. 2035-37 Feb 2018 Previously Nov 2013 ***(*) (vat) level red, wee purple colour. “High”, cooked up red fruits aroma, also blackberry with a pork side, a violet interior. There is a little heat coming from within. The palate has a robust, rather gamey Châteauneuf-du-Pape depth; it moves well as it nears the finish, provides a more pure and suave stretch there. It ends repeating some of the early palate heat, a little liqueur droop. Sound heart to this. Don’t serve it too warm. 14.5°. 2026-28  Nov 2013

2011 ()

(vat, assembled 1 week ago) three-quarter depth red. Has an air of rolling raspberry fruit, savoury, oily, sweetly inviting, marked by cassis fruit as well. In this good mix feature the smoke of hot stones, a granular touch, hay, cassis bud and a vegetal note. The palate picks up on cassis and pipe tobacco – this holds assertive, textured fruit. Good traditional wine, good body, has a real peacock strut of traditional virtues, bags of character. Great fruit, clear and textured, is a true child of warm slopes and gulleys. STGT wine, shows excellent promise. The fruit at its heart is very good, has a little minty note also. This can be drunk young to enjoy its clear fruit, but can obviously live very well and vary a lot more. From 2015. 2027-29  Dec 2012

2010

ruby touches in a plum red robe. Spices, clove, marjoram, raspberry liqueur feature on the nose. The palate has the freedom of 2010, holds neat cooked red fruits with attractive floral nudges. It’s still very young, is less evolved than the 2012 tasted alongside it, and is even rather closed. There is a good couch of content, which is thick and close together. There is very fine juice right at its heart. The balance is good. It needs time; decanting advised. 14.5°. From 2020. 2037-39 Feb 2018 Previously Dec 2012 ***** (vat) healthy dark red, legs down the glass. Blackberry, cassis, running fruit aroma, with pine, mint sauce, and shows a meaty width – a mixed bag to start proceedings. The palate is rich, full of gras, textured on oily fruit; it has lavender, herb touches, a real garrigue outcrop in its smoky black fruit on the second stage. Full and persistent, it runs both sideways and along. Terroir, STGT wine, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape of plenty and character. Has a good lip-smacking finish. Fined 4 days ago. From 2016-17. 2034-37  Dec 2012

2009 ()

(vat) good, dark tints in the robe. Spice-pepper top air, violet and typical Grenache blackberry, a soft bouquet. The palate has a lovely flow of fruit, tasty and sympa, is centred around a juicy generosity. Its ripeness has been well done. Very natural wine that keeps moving, has spice in it, and ends clearly. Good, STGT wine. From mid-2013. 2032-34 March 2011

2008 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED – ALL SOLD TO THE MERCHANT TRADE

2007 ()

full, plum red robe. Rather dense and persistent nose, shows coffee and earthiness. The palate is concentrated, holds gras, and becomes compact late on. The length is OK. Raisin and date on the aftertaste. Hot vintage style wine, with the Courthézon micro climate-soil effects adding to that beefiness. 2030-32 March 2011 Previously March 2009 **** (final assemblage) full, bursting red robe; the bouquet shape is curved – shows red jam, and is very sealed up for now, nicely compact. It is broad, and will be sustained as it evolves. Grenache with a lot of heart starts the palate – it has good core and depth – this is a solid wine. The berried fruit has a good grounding, a little earthiness, and a natural feel. The length is good – the fruit resides there on the finish. 2027-30 March 2009

2006

dark red, still full, a gentle evolution on the robe. The nose has a reduced, animal air, comes with some downhome, feral elements, backed by cooked plum and fig airs at the heart of the fruit. The palate shows Grenache on the cusp between late youth and maturity – it is now at a crossroads. Decant it to squeeze more from it, or wait another 12-18 months. The finish is grainy, active, expressive, with salty touches, a little homespun in style. This has the appeal of wine from the raw outcrops, hasn’t been polished up, is traditional, genuine and STGT in style. A touch of late dryness will be taken care of any full flavoured dish to go with it. 14.5°. 2028-30  Dec 2012 Previously March 2009 ***(*) full red with black hints in the robe; has an alert, simmered red fruits, promising nose. The palate has an outer lacing of tannin and licorice, with inside a virile red fruit – very typical Grenache. It ends a little dustily and powdery for now. The depth is good. It needs to settle its finish, so leave until late 2010. Bottled summer 2008. 2026-28 March 2009 Previously Nov 2007 (assemblage example) ****(*) quite a bright red-black robe; compact, bright black fruit, led by blackberry in the aroma. Bouquet is well-defined, has latent smoke, is good, clear and quite upright. Palate holds black fruit with a thrusting nature, followed by assertive tannins. Not at all bound together as yet, has plenty of tannin running through it, bringing good lining around its backbone. Classy, very complete, understated wine of poise. Stylistically, no surprise to discover who made it. From mid-late 2010. 2026-28. Nov 2007

2005

very even dark red hue; the nose is wide, poised, has a brewed intensity, a really good stone fruit – red plum – and intense raspberry core. A bit of reduction also. The palate is also broad, offers “dark” fruit, with a coffee, mocha infusion. It straightens out via some acidity, ending on a clear, more grainy note that is typical of 2005. Punchy finish, though not disorderly. From late 2009. Is gradually making its way. 2026-28 June 2008 Previously Nov 2007 ***(*) quite a full red with some black in the hue. The nose is biscuity, with sealed black fruits such as blackberries hovering discreetly – suggests it will be varied by around 2010. The palate black fruits bear a stamp of depth, with a rather intense core. The tannins demand it be left for 2 to 3 years – it is a bit disjointed now. Some decent late richness or gras brings possibilities for the future. There is good core fruit here. Drink from 2010. 2023-26 Nov 2007 Previously Nov 2006 *** dark robe; promising bouquet – is very well-knit, with all the elements in place for a bright future. Herbal and smoky, and typical, is a stayer in the making. Assured fruit on the palate, with a dark side to it. Upright now. Inner juice is good and persistent, seems a little leaned on in the cellar. Length good. Esp mid-2009 on. 2023-26 Nov 2006

2004

quite a full robe with dark traces; reserved, promising bouquet which contains brewed fruits, tar and a tangle of the forest. Nice thrust of dark fruit on palate with a fresh, decisive finish. Helped by its non-Grenache elements that supply direction, though the vintage style is direct at this young stage. Stylish, dark fruit here, and good length. 2022-24 Oct 2006 Previously July 2005 ***(*) (vat example of Grenache, plus some Syrah/Mourvèdre) clear fruit aroma, lightly peppered. Harmonious, welcoming fruit roundness, succulent to a degree, also well-defined. Fruit is charming, is dense but not potent. Length good. Red berries with some punch in them. July 2005 "We cropped Mourvèdre at 15° for the first time this year" J.André Second vat example of 95% Grenache, 5% Syrah ***(*) (vat) black fruit, toffee, a brewed, enclosed bouquet. Correct, quite deep wine, punchy from the Grenache, fruit is weighty but rounded. Tannins on show. 21 yrs.

2003 ()

there is some brightness in a red showing the start of ruby. Holds a pretty nose – baked stones with a little floral dressing, maybe a touch of coffee; is a good, very typical Châteauneuf bouquet. Has a supple, rich start, and comes in the traditional, full vein, with a genuine Grenache nature in it. There is more tannin at the end than would be the case in a less extreme vintage. The aftertaste of raisin and cake is a little dry. I reckon it can absorb that dryness by late 2009. The nose is ahead of the palate in evolution and the organisation of the wine's elements. 14.5°. 2020-22 June 2008 Previously July 2005 *** (vat) piercing, red berries aroma, very typical Grenache, jam effect from the ripeness. Rich, rounded red fruit pastilles on palate. Warm, round and attractive, good interior. Some tannin, licorice on finish. After its soft attack, gains weight and tannin. Esp 2007 on. 2019-21 July 2005

2002 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2001 ()

ruby red; simply, beautifully curved aroma, great appeal in its restrained plum and spice front that has a grainy area behind, like a percolating coffee air. The palate has a “dark”, intense heart, which suggests its large barrel raising – it gives a black chocolate, cocoa flavour with plenty of guts and mature richness as it finishes. Big and full wine, with a greater palate coating than many mature 2001s. This is for lovers of traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and has been delivered with no buffing or polishing kit attached to the bottle. Drink with venison, wild boar, beef casseroles. Great harmony on the finish. 2026-28 Nov 2008 Previously July 2005 *** some ruby on show; spice, plum, lightly gamey bouquet, also jam, licorice, wee start of secondary aromas. Black fruits, spice start, tar also, soft outwardly but is deep, there is more here than it appears. Finishes, round and warmly, with black spice, tar again. Scented aftertaste. 2022-25 July 2005

2000 ()

still a largely full red robe; the nose shows evolution – some damp tea leaves and tobacco, with prune fruit and sweet spice: it is pretty broad and the aroma travels across the glass. Has a nicely rich, full start to the palate – this is a wine of some intensity, it has “dark” notes in it – and at the end shows leather, licorice, tobacco. On the finish there is some bite, and the texture now has the grain of maturing Grenache – a little pebbly nature from the start to mid-palate. The length is secure. This has a rather upright shape now, and is an autumn/winter drink, with those seasons' dishes. It persists well. 2022-23 June 2008 Previously *** red fruits, nicely floating bouquet, floral with some mineral hints. Soft, good warm fruit that persists well. Good thread of red fruit running through, with charming richness alongside. End tar, licorice. Nice finesse. The 2001 is more punchy. Full, rounded now. 2021-23

1999 ()

full, bonny robe with red tints. The nose is very clear, shows classy red fruit, has a touch of coffee with it, is still young. Game emerges with air, and there is a note of burn. There is a wee tannic surround wrapped around the live fruiting; the texture is silken, the tannins very nicely done. The length is good. The tannins hold up well. This is a well vinified wine that persists, even if its width is a bit limited for now. Chunky at heart. Drink now to 2020-23  Nov 2006 Previously July 2005 **** dark, well knit bouquet - black berries, prune and violet, light game side. Rolled up texture, in a quiet phase. Fruit is well present, has a silky, even texture. Some chocolate and prune - from its evolution. Licorice aftertaste, wisp of tobacco. Tannins starting to meld. Good internal vigour. July 2005

1998

clear hue – ruby with a mature red core. Damp forest or leaf air over a sweet layer of plum fruit that is mature, and ends on a floral uplift, while there is beef, game in the background. The palate is a suavely textured do – there is good heart in this, a ball of nicely intense black fruit that has leather siding, a still present tannic sideboard that contributes to its structure and appeal. It ends on a rounded, rather animal note. Some might find Brett or farmyard on the nose. A forthright, local wine that is a wee bit flat. 15°. 2016-18 Nov 2008 Previously July 2005 ****(*) solid, gamey aroma, plum, berries, bouquet is tight. Suave texture, bountiful, scented red fruits that linger. Very tasty, gracious wine, with a lot of vinosity and charm, is all suavely wrapped together. Not yet at the mineral stage, unlike some 1998s. Lovely, delicious phase now. 2022-24 "This was always suave and ample on the palate" J.André July 2005

1995 ()

plum-ruby robe, sensible depth for 19 years, going steady. Cedar and smoke, plum liqueur aroma of good, rich depth, a bit of buffed leather. Flowers and strawberry, with prune, also come through as it airs, as well as dampness – a genuine mixed bag. There is a very strong Grenache expression, cigar box notes – it moves around a lot. You can taste the tannins that line its tight dark berry fruit; it evokes the ground, is earth-bound in its weight and dry tightness, and shows a wee bit of spritz. It quickly settles and smooths itself. It is a traditional, thick wine that extends with a sure tread, builds up a late intensity. Pepper after 40 minutes, then more acidity. It isn’t old, is just a good mature wine. Its comings and goings in the glass are of great interest. It isn’t pristine, and shows some old large barrel (foudre) influence. 14.5°. 2023-26 Sept 2014, East Sussex Previously Dec 2006 ***(*) ruby colour; the bouquet is fragrant, shows nice vigour, fig, plum fruit, a bit of fungal and mineral mixed in. The palate is soft, with a slight advance in the taste, but it does hold a live, continuing thread. It rolls along pretty well, still has the clarity of this vintage. Good with a civet of hare. “1995 wasn’t easy as a young wine – it wasn’t gourmand or on the fruit, like 1999, and took time to come through,” Jacqueline André.  2020-23 Dec 2006

1993

ruby-brick robe, still full at its centre. Sweet, scented Chinese tea air doubles up with a soaked, earthy aspect – the bouquet shows reduction, needs air. The palate still has sound matter; it starts with a raisin tart flavour, and finishes clear-cut, with a taste of soaked cherries, and mineral edges. Very full for the vintage. 2011-14  Dec 2006

1988 ()

this has the essential Châteauenuf-du-Pape bouquet: here come airs of baked plains, stones, herbs, a wisp of refined red fruit within. This is the ideal example of the southern Grenache variety of aroma from a rather drier, less fat vintage. It is soft and persistent on the palate, the fruit pebbly at first, before it gains in richness once open for an hour. The length is good. It is an STGT wine, still full of beans. Understated beauty here, the delicacy of a vintage that was dry and not totally sunbaked. Autumn drinking or summer with lamb in tajine, for instance. 2016-18  Nov 2005