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The Wines

50-60% Bourboulenc (mid-1970s) from sandy soils on Saint-Georges (N-E), 40-50% Clairette blanche (1920s, 1930s, a little old Grenache blanc mixed in) on sandy soils on Étang (N-E), Les Bédines (NN-E), (until 2015 was 40% 1920s Clairette, 30% mid 1970s Bourboulenc, 20% 1985 Roussanne on Valori (N-E), 10% 1985 Grenache blanc but Roussanne & Grenache blanc were low yielding, so taken out), vat fermented, raised 8 months, malo blocked, organic, biodynamic wine, 2,200 b

2019

fine yellow robe; the nose is attractive, has a good, serene style, combines white fruits with salted nudges, roast nuts, pear fruit, peach and cooked citrus notes. It’s broad, fuelled. The attack is firm, concerted, carries immediate strength in its gras, a really grounded depth, shimmering strength. It’s robust into the finish which is solid, displays glow. It’s very much a table wine, has a red wine structure, and will benefit from time to soften and tone down its power, and round out. Its salted threads work well. This has character, is an STGT Châteauneuf that is chunky, authentic, wears big boots. 14°. I regard it as too early to drink now, so either try it in a restrained window of early 2021 or from around 2025 for a more complex showing. 2037-40 July 2020

2017

fine yellow robe; this has a soft pear air, apricot, white plum, dried fruits, fennel and aniseed. It has potential, is nicely together. The palate is tight, bears good, solid gras. The second half hasn’t yet developed. It has the grounding of the hot 2017 vintage, so is very much for la table and sauced dishes. It grips well on the finish, shows Clairette – aniseed – on the close. Decant it. 14°. 2035-37 Feb 2019 Previously Oct 2018 *** yellow robe; a busy bouquet leads on compote of white fruits, pear, peach, has the fat essence of the vintage. The palate is top heavy, bears a compact display of dried fruits, with some tannin and heat glow on the finishing moments. The balance is on the stretch, with the degree an issue: this requires the safety of la table to help its late balance. 14°. 60% Bourb, 40% Clairette blanche. Bottled June 2018. 2025-26 Oct 2018

2016

pale yellow colour. Dried fruits airs with sweet, ripe touches, white fruits, show on the nose which has a suave roundness, a wee note of aniseed. The palate expresses joli fat via the Clairette with what seems well ripened Bourboulenc (normally a tart wine) in tow. There are cooked citrus touches towards the finish, with grip. This is real genuine, trad Châteauneuf blanc, a serene table wine it is. It is STGT wine, whose flesh appeals. Decanting advised. 14°. Bottled June 2017. 2029-31 Feb 2018

2010

(vat, bottling in two weeks) pale yellow with green tints. Lemony, fine aroma with a touch of spice. Good, expressive start to the palate – I like its middle matter and flesh, before it refines and shows mineral on the finish. very serene At the end, lovely there. Lots of food options for this pretty wine: “fine fish such as sole in sauce, chicken in white sauce, cheese with character – goat, Brie,” Jacqueline André. 2020-22 March 2011

2007

the nose is rounded – shows ripe fruit, white jam and floral airs also. The palate is ripe, rounded and a bit hidden towards the finish. It is more live than is usually the case from this domaine (it is a little warm). The finish is nutty. Food best, rather than solo. I think it is a bit better than this, given last tasting at a correct temperature., so have marked it at ***. 2020-22 March 2009 Previously Nov 2008 ***(*) subdued yellow; peach, bonbon sweets, butter and banana primary nose with potential variety to come. The palate gives a woven wine with low-key muscle – it needs patience, is a little full-on. It has guts, is more profound than many 2007 whites. Plenty here, is a broad wine. Country mushroom dishes, risottos good avec. 2019-21 Nov 2008

2006

low key pale pear colour; has a bonbon, slightly waxen aroma, with good heart in it. There are pretty dried fruits such as apricot here, with a hint of saltiness (the Roussanne effect): this is a broad and attractive bouquet. The palate is full, homogenous and compact – a wine of good body that is not forced at all. There are hints of pear, and also peanut and banana in the flavour, with a rich underlay. This ends quite straight and tight and is thus young, suggesting a little structure for the future and evolution. It ends in a serene way, showing some hazelnut or roasted nuts on the finish – a pretty clarity. A wine of character, not a Superhighway one, that has good life ahead. Well balanced, too. This holds up well over the next three days – another good sign. 2020-22 October 2008

2005 ()

marked yellow tints; ripe fruit, with a little lime tart and spice in the aroma – is typical of the full, ripe white Châteauneuf school. Has a fringe of pear, and nicely traditional pear sweets, crystallised fruits and some almond. Broad on palate – this is an earthy, grounded wine. Holds ripe fruit, dried fruit skins of apricot and peach in its flavour, with a beguiling floral trim. Full in style, with about enough acidity to motor on – just lacks some vivacity or alertness on the finish. In the comfortable seats category, and as such suitable for veal or sauced fish, for instance. 2016-19 Feb 2007

2003

full, agreeably opulent bouquet - lime, white fruits, greengage. Honeyed attack, really nice depth. Some spice at end, tightens there. The Bourboulenc notably has helped to achieve its clean finish. Some end heat. Good character. 2013 July 2005-16

2001

even yellow robe; the nose is spiced, with a little saltiness and an appealing roundness below: the fruit suggested is dried apricot, and there is good life in its bouquet. The palate starts spicily, with grip, brings out white spiced fruits that have sound richness inside. Ends freshly, clearly, with a buttery final point to display its southern origins. Stylish, beau vin, with plenty of life in it. STGT leaning here. 2015-17 Nov 2007 Previously ***(*) some yellow in its colour. Pear-caramel mix on nose, a little spice. Bit closed on palate, going through a quiet phase. Nicely filled wine, some butter in its make-up. Pretty solid, ends with quince and a tangy point like grapefruit. Good content. Solid, yet fine. Esp 2007 on. 2013-15

1997 ()

wide bouquet with an aroma of lime, peach, lychee, baked tart – a good, full ensemble. The attack is juicy , round; this persists well, has honeyed notes. It is still full and vigorous. The gras continues well, and it finishes with good length, bringing in licorice as it signs off. Authentic. Live, very bonny wine. 40% Clair, 30% Bourb, 20% Rouss, 10% Gren blanc. 2015-17  Dec 2006