Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

15-80% Grenache blanc, 15-80% Clairette, 5-10% Bourboulenc from sand, limestone, galet stone soils on Les Esqueirrons (N-W), Grand Pierre (N-E), Pignan (N-E), steel vat fermented at 15°C, raised 50% steel vat, 25% new 228-litre oak casks, 25% 1-year 228-litre oak casks 5-6 months, malo blocked, 3,200-4,500 b

2018

yellow robe, glinting. The nose has a buttery, fat style, with a free air of white fruits, white plum, pear touches. The palate comes with good body, fine acidity, has the depth for a good table, fishes such as monkfish, sea bass in fennel. There is a pleasing cluster of white fruits along its path, and the finish is rather dainty given the depth that precedes it. It drinks with good freedom. 14°. 4,500 b.  70% Clairette, 25% Gren bl, 5% Bourb. €27. 2030-32 Oct 2019

2016

shiny, fine yellow robe. The nose is refined, bright, offers a white peach aroma with a note of infused tea such as camomile, aniseed, a little butterscotch, cigarette smoke. The palate is enjoyable, tasty, holds elegant gras richness that is a delight to savour. There are good mixed fruit flavours all bustling together. The finish is trim, has quiet grip. This could serve as a luxurious aperitif, as recommended by the boys on the back label, also drink with steamed fish, prawns, seafood. It’s a w.o.w. Châteauneuf blanc, highly drinkable. 14°. 2022-23 Oct 2017

2015 ()

yellow robe, with sheen. The nose is furnished with airs of white peach, apricot, honey, has a steady depth, a discreet freshness. The palate holds mild gras richness, gives a note of white fruits jam backed by some nuttiness. There is quiet grip on the close. It drinks neatly, has airborne qualities. 14°. 4,000 b. 2021-22 Sept 2016

2013 ()

pale yellow, legs down the glass. Has an easy aroma led by peach, with an appealing little fresh centre, white strawberry, greengage plum, light flan notes. There is good style in the palate’s white fruit; the flavour mixes nut and aniseed with quince and pear. This is light flow wine with a granular moment on the finish, a discreet crunch of southern origin – the ripeness and a little tannin. Salt and dried fruits appear on the aftertaste. This drinks nicely solo, has good focus and clarity. This is a modern, aperitif style take on the traditional varieties. 13.5°. 2020-22 Dec 25, 2014

2012 ()

attractive, pale yellow robe. Raw tobacco, smoke and lemon air, a lurking note of hazelnut, possible wee acetate firmness, pear fruit – this is a light dance nose. The palate has a concealed depth, as if it wants to get out of gaol, holds locked in, largely elegant, rather deep matter. Decant this to encourage freer expression. It is sturdy at heart, but given poise by the vintage. Its length is complete enough for fowl, Savoie cheeses such as Comté, Tomme. A cluster of honey, vanilla and ginger bring up the finish. 14°. 2021-23  Oct 2013

2011 ()

fine yellow robe. Has a floating air of pear, menthol, garrigue notes – the nose opens as an aperitif of fine flavoured foods drinking wine. It is pretty breezy, has a little oak. The palate depth is discreet, centred on white jam, with coconut flavours, oils after that, before a tighter mandarin jam exit. This has gras, sound grip, ways to go. It is still on the cellar. From mid-2013, can be decanted. 14°. Bottled Jan 2012, €20. 60% GB, 30% Cl, 10% B this year. 2021-23  Dec 2012

2010 ()

refined yellow; fresh, sprightly, welcoming aroma that suggests a great aperitif drink – there are airs of pear and flan, all very attractive. The palate dances along well – this is w.o.w. wine, suited to solo drinking, with clear, breezy fruit in a discreet southern depth and foundation. It ends cleanly, well-textured. There has been discreet blending here, for finesse, and this will be liked by all comers. 14.5°. 2018-19 Dec 2011

2009

the yellow is good and clear. Has a firm nose despite some brioche baked bread appeal. Its actual fruiting is subdued – there is a suggestion of pear, also fennel. The palate is tangy – this is an “of the earth” wine that is solid and suited to foods more than aperitif drinking. Has fine acidity. Licorice and a bit of tannin feature on the finish, with peach and white strawberry fruit. A weighty style of white Châteauneuf that is broad as it ends, will live well. Decant it. Has gained in depth and quality in the past 14 months. 2023-24 Dec 2011 Previously Oct 2010 **(*) pale robe; the nose starts freshly, is tight – there are white fruit airs, a little floral presence, but it is reserved, and grapefruit, citrus influences hover. The palate is more open than the nose, but needs to be deeper if you want to eat food with this. Lacks profile. The length is OK, good enough, but there are clear moments and heat together as it signs off rather stiffly and abruptly. I would add Roussanne to this mix of Gren blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc. 14.5°. 2015. Oct 2010

2007 ()

mild yellow robe; tenacious nose – muscle, local oomph, plenty of dried white fruits. The palate is full, inspired by traditional varieties, notably Grenache blanc. There is an attractive fleshy moment in mid-palate, and this are livened by some citrus, lime marmalade flavours. It ends nicely full and rounded. Its richness is good – drink this with well-flavoured foods, sauced dishes. Good local feel. 2012-13 June 2008

2006

fresh, alert and broad bouquet, with quite fresh appeal, salty tang in the white fruit, very attractive. Palate – very open, immediate, well-set fruit with ripe, rounded appeal – it travels all the way like that. Mixes fennel, apricot, licorice. More supple than 2005, a little similar to 2004 with its freshness and acidity. Very elegant. Fine for aperitif. 14.5° 2017-20 March 2007 “This year it is 75% Grenache blanc, 25% young Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc; I put some Grenache in a couple of casks, one new and one 1-year, and the Clairette in one 1-year cask – total around 25%. I find 2006 very good for the whites, and this will keep for 15 to 20 years” T.Usseglio.

2001

golden tints in the robe. Has reached a honeyed stage, shows peach, dried fruits, orange on bouquet. Palate also has citrus-herbal tones, there is rich matter here, wine with sinew in it. Oak at the end shows through with more air. 14.5° Nov 2006 “In 2000 we started to experiment with new oak – this was raised for 14 months in new oak, on its lees. By 2006 we were back at 20% oak.” T. Usseglio

1999 ()

robe gaining yellow; lime, salt, butterscotch bouquet – still fresh and young. Immediate grip on attack, then a more rounded flavour. Runs directly all through the palate. Still has some tension in it. There is a lot of dried fruit emphasis – white peaches, for instance. Length is good and gentle. Very good with a salmon and spinach tartin. 2014-16 March 2007 “This was 80% Grenache blanc, 15% Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc, and steel vat vinified, bottled in early March for the Fête de St-Marc. I find it between its two phases – the young and the mature,” T.Usseglio