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The Wines

30-40% Grenache blanc, 20-30% Clairette, 20-30% Roussanne, 10-20% Bourboulenc (all early 1980s), Picpoul from Bois Sénéchaux (N-E), Terres Blanches (N), Roussanne 50% new, 50% 1-year 228—litre oak cask fermented, rest steel vat fermented at 20°C, raised 5-6 months, malo completed, first wine 1985, organic, biodynamic wine, 7,000-10,500 b

2018 ()

shiny yellow; cooked lemon, light reduction on the nose, with cooked apple, a touch of pineapple, aniseed. It has potential, is just emerging, has style, joli fruit, a Burgundian lean. The palate gives a stylish cluster of white fruits, moves with grace, develops power towards the finish. Peach, nuts, dried fruits feature in the flavour. The first half carries a good saline presence. This is a table wine of elegance, good with turbot, say. The finish is a mite sudden now, slightly burnt, can soften – that is the one issue. Decant it. 14°. 2031-33 Oct 2019

2017

yellow robe, some depth. The bouquet is rich, has a “high”, stewed white fruits aspect, note of nut paste, banana, with a shiver of freshness. There is a grapey surround to it, not as strong as Muscat, but in that vein. The palate is floral, ample, richly layered, picks up density and notes of mandarin, honey then, aniseed as it travels, keeps you on your toes vis-à-vis its prompts, with the length finding an extra spur before the close. It’s not yet fully as one, and will come together over the next six to nine months. It has the stuffing for fully flavoured dishes, and will live rather well. It finishes fully, is clear, traditional white Châteauneuf. It will be very interesting around 2024-25. 14°. 2027-29 Mar 2018

2013

pale yellow robe. The nose combines fruit and floral airs, with a touch of herbs lingering. The palate is round, full and juicy, has good fruit weight. Slightly dry finish from the oak although the oak is not at all pervasive. Alcohol present as well. Needs to settle. 14.5°. From 2015.  2022-23  JL Oct 2014

2011 ()

glinting, pale yellow, legs down the glass. Raw pork sausage, acetate air – this bouquet has a feral side. Some cooked peach is the best part of a modest, rather strange nose. The palate lumbers along, with “high” fruit at its centre, low acidity and modest length and cut. A plain wine on the palate that lacks touch and definition. 14.5°. To 2017. €21. 40% GB, 30% Rouss, 20% Cl, 10% Bourb this year.  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(to be bottled next month) aromatic, rounded aroma, good and inviting thanks to flowers, white fruits. Fresh start to palate, with foundation behind that, good continuity. Agreeable length, a stylish wine suited to the aperitif or light flavours. “It is rich, and fresh. It took one month to ferment this year – the 2009 only took two weeks. It is suited to sushi, cooked fish with saffron or cream sauces, not spices,” S.Usseglio To 2018 March 2011

2000

very pale; fresh, zesty apple airs, white fruits, some acacia. Pear figures on the palate – it is OK, but fades a little. Some chewiness of content. Lacks character. May 2001