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The Wines

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Roger Perrin red 70-75% Grenache (inc 1930s, 1940s), 10-15% Syrah, 8-15% Mourvèdre, 3-4% Cinsault, 2-3% Clairette, Vaccarèse, Counoise, hand harvested, 24-36 hour pre-fermentation crop cooling at 10°C, destemmed, 3-4 week vinification, pumping overs, cap punching, then pumping overs, aged 15-20% new-5 year 228-litre oak casks, 30-45% large 30-50 hl barrels, 40-50% steel vat 14 months, unfined, lightly filtered, 30,000-57,000 b

2017

(casks/large barrel/vat) full, dark red. The bouquet has a sultry style, a black berry fruits’ liqueur nature, with a pedigree sweetness of Châteauneuf implicit. It will vary well, and bring in the garrigue over time. The palate is lusty, full and rolling, gives spiced red fruits with good reach, leading into a sustained, tarry, chewy finish. There’s a damson jam flavour, with liqueur notes in it. This has the 2017 ground force. Decanting a must. 15.4°. 30,000 b. 70% Gren, 15% Mourv, 10% Syr, 3% Cins, 2% Clair. €21. From 2022. 2043-45 Oct 2018

2016 No Rating

sturdy red colour. The nose is unclear, tainted, and the palate is extremely dry. This is in bottle from early Feb 2018. Not a good situation. 14.5°. Mar 2018 Previously Oct 2017 NR(casks/barrel/vat) sample 1: dark red robe. The bouquet carries an open, abundant air of raspberry, with a husky side note, caramel and a “high” aspect. The palate carries cherry-red berry fruit with a swift advance of tannin that serves to compress it and render the second half rather dry, not very fresh. marc taste also. I am not sure about its balance. 14.9°. sample 2, taken from the cellar today: dark red. The nose shows some beef stock meatiness, black cherry within, a note of huskiness, hide. The palate holds cooked red fruit, plum flavours, but again, the tannins and dryness reach out further than I would like up the palate. This will have to be re-tasted once bottled. I am assured that the finish will be sorted by bottling, which is credible. 14.9°. 35,000 b. 70% Gren, 15% Mourv, 10% Syr, 3% Cins, 2% Clairette blanche. €21. Oct 2017

2015

(cask/large barrel/vat) medium red robe. The nose is reticent, gives a hint of raspberry with damp notes resembling seaweed. The palate presents immediate red berry fruit with a smoky backdrop. It’s going to drink sooner than most, has an easy to appreciate content, and the tannins hold just a little rocky snap. 14.5°. From late 2017. 2030-32 Sept 2016

2014 ()

(vat/cask/barrel, bottling H1 2016) dark red. A bright blackberry fruit aroma greets, has a cosy sweetness, a little black olive giving a regional touch. The palate is compact, bears quite sustained juice, with a note of caramel from some oak as it nears the finish. It is self-contained for now, has a quiet local depth. 14.5°. 35,000 b. €19. From 2018. 2025-27  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

(vat/cask/barrel) medium colour, light at rim. Briary, dark-red fruit on the nose with a hint of jam. Grenache red fruit leads the palate. There’s a ripeness and creaminess to it, although it is medium bodied in weight. Attractive mid-term drinking. From 2016. 14.5°. 2024-26 JL Oct 2014

2012

(vat/cask/barrel) full red, some purple. Prominent, comfortable depth in the bouquet, a solid black berry heart, a touch of rosemary, sage stuffing. The palate offers attractive, generous, free fruit that runs around well. It has a smooth stroke of tannin, is like a black fruit cordial with some kick in it. It shows good 2012 clarity, that effortless nature, the fruit bubbling with winsome, juicy pleasure. Not ambitious, a good everyday friend style wine. From spring 2015. 2028-30  Nov 2013

2011

steady, clear red robe; interesting bouquet centred on its plum fruit with drifts of thyme, pepper and tarragon included. Appealing debut - a fragrant note before a much more assertive, chunky mid to late palate as the local strength kicks in. Joli, fluid black fruit. Proper southern length, no soft footing. Genuine, full, stylish, and has a clarity that makes you want to drink another glass. From 2015. 14.5°. 2029-31  Nov 2013  Previously Dec 2012 ****(*) (cask/barrel/vat) dark colour. Toffee-prune, blackberry aroma that is wide and pretty well filled, shows dark, soaked raspberry and a note of salt – this is a very good mixed bag. The palate gives quite commanding black fruit with the fluid tones of 2011 – its juice carries well, and it precedes a minted, tar-oak tannin wave. Very young, not much varied. Laurel and prune feature in the aftertaste. It lengthens well, has high rank fruit. Stylish, expressive wine that is shaping up well. From late 2014. 14.5°. 2027-30  Dec 2012

2008

mild red robe. Red fruit, baked cherry aroma, not yet varied, shows smoke and violet also. Medium-weight palate, gives some free fruit that is clear enough. It runs straight along, has only modest depth and width. The fruit has a little merit. From late 2010. 2015-16 Nov 2009

2007 ()

attractive red robe; the bouquet is calm, and presents red fruit with honey and nut seasoning, while there is incipient power lurking within if you pause and study it. The palate is rather easy natured, and gives a pocket of red cherry fruit after half way. It lengthens soundly. The red fruit is attractive and aromatic. Correct wine. Now to 2022-23 Oct 2009

2006

decent red; brambly, mulberry, raspberry aroma with reserves for the future, a little sizzling bacon and grilling in it that lend a smoky air – it is three-quarter depth, has life in it. The palate fruit is orderly, its black berries delivered with a tang of licorice, mint, charcoal, allowing it to move briskly before it settles towards the finish. Its tannins are mostly absorbed, need another 18 months, so from late 2009. 2022-24 Jan 2008

2005

quite a full black plum colour; sweet airs, black fruits with interesting jam notes, menthol – good start. This is a round, textured wine, its black fruits have a savoury side and are helped by a herbal, slightly pebbly later stage. Has good integrity, runs well all through, and ends full and rounded. Nicely seamless. From spring 2009. 2023-26 June 2008 Previously Nov 2006 *** (pre-bottle) dark robe; clean cut, smoky black fruits aroma, is tight-knit and limited now, with some high tone here. The palate fruit style is also clear, the Grenache is ripe and has character, plus there is a herbal infusion and some licorice mixed in late on. Sprinkle of late red fruits. There is some heat on the finish, the tannins there are a bit tough. Core is good, but the raising in cask presents some issues that need to be resolved if the wine is to show to its best. Try from 2009. 2023-25 Nov 2006

2004

dark, matt red colour; funky style aroma, “get down and boogie”, is very Grenache and a little transitional now. The palate`s red fruit is cleaner than the bouquet’s fruit, and flows well. Has a good, clear finish. Not a long-lived wine, works on the elegance. Cherry fruit finale that is appealing, pure and clear. Herbal outcrops on the aftertaste. 2019-22 Nov 2006

2001 ()

robe a little pale. Pretty, open bouquet. Suave, quite well-juiced palate, stretches to a licorice finish. The tannins are OK, are best left until 2005 to settle. Savoury overall, but a little dull. 2019-21 May 2003

1997

medium red robe, very Grenache. There is earthiness on the nose, airs of stewed plums. It’s not that clear cut. The palate has a spicy, tender opening, bears a slightly aged, semi-mature flavour, is rather light. This is delicate, almost too polite, but is good wine for spiced dishes, is very Grenache in style, faithful on that score. It’s soft and a bit plump, so also resembles its vintage correctly. I wouldn’t cellar this too long. 2006-08 Cendrillon Restaurant, New York 17 Oct 2000

1995

pretty dark robe; the nose is rather sleek, led by cherry and blackberry, is still not yet out, naturally. The palate is nicely weighted, its flavour lies calmly in it, has not been chased along in the cellar. The balance is sound. Its dark flavours are clean on the finish. I like the flavour here, has a really good core fruit that has the plum, Grenache style. From 2001. 2020-22 Oct 1996

1994 ()

dark plum colour; very full, pretty broad and deep nose, with some sweet, good density, shows pretty true dark scents, almost into truffle country. The palate is genuinely full, not cooked up. The flavour is nicely true, well-cut. The flavour is led by damson and prune with spice. It finishes cleanly, well prolonged. Good class here; its reflects its northern zone – is full but also elegant. 13.5°. From 1999. 2012-14 Oct 1996