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The Wines

40-55% Grenache blanc, 18-29% Roussanne, 20-30% Clairette, 3-13% Bourboulenc, 0-7% Picardan from galet stone clay-sandy soils on Cabrières Sud (N-W), hand harvested, 71-82% steel vat, 18-29% (the Roussanne) new 228-litre oak cask fermented, raised 10 months (up from 6 months since early 2010s), filtered, “drink as an aperitif, or with fish in sauce or oven, white meats, game terrine”, 3,800-10,000 b

2018 ()

glinting, firm yellow colour; the nose is upfront, broad, a right old bundle of ripe fruits, exotic touches such as pineapple, roasted nuts also. The palate bears good flow of richness with tasty moments towards the extended finish as the white fruits’ flavour digs in. There’s a note of crabapple that appeals. The fine acidity on the finish is a good additional detail, spearmint there. 14°. 40% Gren bl, 30% Clairette, 20% Rouss, 7% Picardan, 3% Bourb. €25. 2031-33 Oct 2019

2017

burnished yellow colour, deep. The nose gives an aroma of butterscotch, glazed brown sugar, with a buttery inlay. The palate reflects the nose, also sizzled butter in the flavour, a savoury nature, is very much a wine for la table, based on its oily texture and full style. The finish is firm. It’s not oxidative, nor is it fresh. 14°. 5,300 b. 50% Gren bl, 20% Clair, 20% Rouss, 7% Picardan, 3% Bourb. Bottled June 2018. €21. 2025-26 Oct 2018

2016

(casks) full, firm yellow. Has a poached pear, boiled sweets aroma which rests more on sweetness than freshness, has drifts of aniseed-licorice. The palate is a juicy, generous affair, works on texture and flavour, the latter showing peach, peach stone, white plum and apricot fruits. It is destined more for la table than solo, is robust, has inner muscle, a compact content. It will do well with bold flavours, including tuna, lobster, white meats. The finish is solid, in the vein of a red wine, the length well sustained. It is a traditional southern white, with character, and the Clairette and the Grenache blanc are steering it. It’s not yet a true ensemble, so leave until spring 2018. 14°. 2027-29 Aug 2017

2015

sturdy yellow robe. The bouquet has energy, a white grape, vanilla, pastry tart   filling with a note of Cavaillon melon (orange). The palate is close-knit, with an assertive, firm content. It gives late heat, and is a fuelled glass of white Châteauneuf. It finishes pretty broadly, lacking the definition of the leaders. I’m not sure about its balance. It’s on the dull side. Decant it. 14.5°. Bottled July 2016. 2022-23 Sept 2016

2014 ()

quite a full yellow robe. There is a brioche, baked bread aroma debut to the nose – it has a little sturdy nature, isn’t obvious today. There is a light air of cooked citrus, white tobacco. The palate is also enclosed, has southern, closely drawn weight, and so is suited to Provençal dishes with garlic and seasoning of herbs, peppers. The finish is rounded. Decanting a help. 14°. 3,800 b. €19. 50% Gren bl, 29% Rouss, 20% Clair, 7% Picardan, 3% Bourb. Bottled early Aug 2015. From spring 2016. 2023-25  Oct 2015

2011

fair yellow, legs. Stewed, cooked pear aroma, a bonny fat present, also a little banana, white plum. The palate is sugary, out of kilter, has a steady depth, is suited to dining. Has a flavour of peanut, caramel, so is sturdy more than racy. It ends solidly. Decant this. Its late acidity is rather taut. Shows bonbon on the finale. The palate is firm. Rather uneven. 13.5°. To 2019. 54% GB, 21% Cl, 19% R, 6% B, bottled 26 March 2012 this year. Dec 2012

2008 ()

bright, perky yellow colour; candy, glazed fruits, pear edging to high tone air: it shows its southern origins, the base is well-founded. Peach, easy fruit on the palate; it drinks now, is good for the aperitif, or grilled or notably steamed fish, soft goats cheese. Touches of good acidity keep it fresh. Good drinkability. 2014-15  Nov 2009

2002 ()

warm, bouquet, soft fruits, not that clear. Warm, chewy texture to plate, greengage flavour, low key, lacks depth. May 2003