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The Wines

65-85% Grenache, 0-20% Syrah, 10-15% Cinsault, 0-6% Mourvèdre (1920s-1940s) from galet stone covered soils on Les Serres (S), whole bunch 5 week vinification at 26°C, cap punching, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, aged 30% concrete vat, 70% 2-3 year 550-litre oak casks 12-15 months, unfined, unfiltered, 10-17,000 b

2018

(casks, bottling March 2020) intense, dark robe; the bouquet is full, curved around ripeness of its black, soaked fruits, is a weighty opening. The palate repeats that, has a deep-seated succulence, plush pastures for its plum stone fruits, layered tannins as well. The texture is silken. It’s not quite ponderous, but is in that vein. It glows on the aftertaste, suits sweet tooth drinkers above all. It’s sipping wine, where restraint is not the word. 14.5°. 85% Gren, 15% Cins. €59. From 2023. 2042-44 Oct 2019

2017 ()

(concrete vat/casks, bottling March 2019) dark red; there’s a touch of baking in with its cherry-kirsch, damson fruit on the nose, which also has floral, rose hip notes. The palate starts in gourmand fashion, the texture silky, bears coated tannins. It’s crunched up on the finish, releases only a little juice. It is quite thorough, but not together. Take your time. From 2021. 2038-40 GB £255 per 6 b i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400  Nov 2018 Previously Oct 2018 *** (concrete vat/casks) full, attractive dark red colour. The bouquet fruit is pure, based around blackberry, with a note of animal hide, baking from the hot summer alongside that doesn’t aid it. The palate is compact, has a black stone fruit heart, issues some live juice before a rather stretched, dry close, the tannins raw and rather curly. Work to do here. 14.5°. 85% Gren, 15% Cins. €55. From 2022. 2038-39 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(vat/casks) dark red, good sheen. The bouquet is filled with black fruits with sealed density, inner depth. The palate is rich and savoury, spreads a wide canvas, and finishes with good length, sustaining the gourmandise right along the way. It’s well and closely packed, and manages a finish with menthol-like cut. The tannins pile in quite thickly, and the finish has multiple levels. 15°. From 2021. 2039-42 Oct 2017

2015

(vat/casks) pretty full red robe. The nose is comfortably rounded, gives a raspberry fruit aroma with some notions of rosemary, herbs. The palate bears spiced, crisp red fruits with a surge; the finish is tingling, clear, holds a little rocky tannin. The shape is direct for now, but the fruit runs well, and the gras is pretty trim. It’s nicely liberated wine that catches the imagination. From late 2019. 2035-38 Sept 2016 GB Justerini & Brooks £350 12 b i/b www.justerinis.com 

2014 ()

(concrete vat/casks, bottling Feb 2016) dark red, jolie robe. The bouquet is potentially deep, holds a black stone fruit aroma that for now lies low. The content is attractive and well sustained on the palate, with polished tannins in step. This has a good frame and potential. The finish brings in notes of licorice and prune. Very good length, safe as houses. 15°. 10,000 b. 65% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Cins, 5% Mourv. €33. From 2018 or so. 2031-33  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

(concrete vat/casks) medium to full colour. The nose  is fairly open, gives a meaty, red fruit air, with pastille and jelly fruit in style. The palate is generous on the attack; the fruit is supple, suave and layered. There is plenty of depth and concentration here. Its tannins seem to sit at the back of the palate. It finishes a little dry, and not quite settled. 15.5°. From 2017. 75% Gren, 10% Cins, 5% Syrah, 5% Mourv, 10,000 b. 2028-29  JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

(concrete vat/casks, bottling Jan 2014) dark, filled up robe. Serious bouquet with a steady depth, a well installed layer of prune, black berries – the shape is square for now, and it is both insistent and sustained. The palate is broad, thorough, its matter coating the gums, leaving a concentrated imprint; it ends on chocolate and date, a rich and near Christmas time cedary box of goodies and spices. Obvious coating here, which seems to be the desired style each year; hence it isn’t food versatile and requires stews, game and thinking outside the box to pair it well. It is demanding, a little extracted. Decant it. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Cins this year. 15°. 12,000 b. 2031-33 Nov 2013

2011

plum red colour. Strawberry jam air in a sweetly curved nose, shows a spot of vanilla and low key herbs: sweetness is a strong first impression. This is sweet n’obvious wine that lacks guile: Châteauneuf-du-Pape on a plate at one year old – not my idea of noblesse. It has a juiced sweetness with a little late acidity, and very mild tannins. Ready now, so where will it travel in the future? Hard to say where it will find extra kick or a spur of freshness from. More a contrived package than a vineyard child. 15°. 2025-28  Dec 2012

2010

(casks) full red, touch of purple. Sweet and succulent plum aroma, black berry also – it is ripe and curvy, holds plenty of core fruit and a truffly earthiness. The palate is rather go-stop-go. There is a plump ball of Grenache at its heart, whose gras takes it a long way. It needs further raising. It extends with an interesting flavour of red plum and spice, nice and true. The tannins have life, the fruit is good. This has character, and is authentic. The aftertaste has the 2010 vintage cendré, ash-like, quality. High quality 5 star wine. From 2014. 82% G, 10% Cins, 8% Syrah this year. 2035-38 Dec 2011

2009

red robe. Sweet first impression on the nose – cherry fruit with a biscuit-tea backdrop, a little smoky. Pocket of concentrated, flashy red fruit such as cherry on the start of the palate, then it gains some flexible tannins, proceeds smoothly, but lacks soul. Widens towards the finish. From 2013. Bottled Jan 2011. 2029-32. Has improved, but isn't going far more up the scale. March 2011 Previously Oct 2010 **(*) (vat/cask) full red; plum fruits aroma, with a snappy, rather edgy take. There is a mix of alcohol and acidity, led by the Grenache. Pushed along palate – offers red fruit Grenache with a spot of oaking and extraction, hence grilled notes. Has not yet moved into harmony. Has the fashionable soaked Grenache style, but the final third is dry. From 2013. Can improve. €29. 2027-30 Oct 2010

2006

thorough black plum robe, shows glycerol. Has a broad, aromatic nose with a floral presence and quietly brewed black fruits. The palate is nicely measured, holds easy, pure fruit with a supple first half to it. It gains some refined tannins as it goes. The roundness of the vintage is present, the length is good. A refined, modern style wine, has a nutted, oaked aftertaste. There is fine shape to this. From late 2009. 14.5°. 2024-27 June 2008

2005

dark, bright red with legs down the glass. Reductive, fundamental nose – it is still in on itself, so it isn`t easy to discern its nuances – it seems broad, quite profound, the red berry fruit a little “high”. It has an enclosed, smoothly full fruit flavour with a mulberry tone, and some liqueur, power notes late on. There is intrinsic punch, but it is delivered with a fine hand. Its length is good, the finish showing a few tannins in its rounded form. It is international now, and needs leaving until 2011 to become more varied, local and stimulating. 14.5°. 2025-28 June 2008 Previously Nov 2006 **** some darkness in the red; funky, game surrounds to the red fruits aroma, has the farmyard here – clears and frees up the red fruits after 30 minutes’ air, has quite a curvaceous shape. Softly textured start, with a thread of acidity that keeps it focused. Regains an earthiness at the end. Not an ideal moment to taste with its reduction present – needs oxygen. Length is good, and the red fruits suggest an elegantly shaped wine is in the making. From 2010. 2024-27 Nov 2006