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The Wines

85-90% Grenache, 5-10% Syrah (1950s-1960s), 0-5% Mourvèdre, 0-5% Cinsault from Les Serres (S), pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, concrete vat raised 1o months (before 2009 was aged 1-4 year 550-litre casks 18 months), unfined, unfiltered, called Tradition until 2009, 33,000 b

2019

(vat) full, dark red; the bouquet carries  an inky intensity, is a good, mixed bag with blackberry jelly, herbal, licorice, olives airs, an undertone of violets. The palate is graceful, the texture delightfully smooth, like velvet, with an unhurried unfurling of its black fruits-black olives flavour. The finish gives a hint of menthol, the tannins very well seasoned and within, giving a sweet munchiness. It’s well ensemble, will give a charming, full glass, the balance good. It can lengthen further. 14.5°. 85% Gren, 5% Syr, 5% Mourv, 5% Cins. €40 at the domaine. From spring 2022. 2042-44 Nov 2020

2018 ()

(concrete vat, bottling Dec 2019) dark red; elder berry, blackberry assemble on the nose, hints of tar, beef stock, licorice. The palate is lined with red fruits that have a firm assertion in them, leading into a still slightly raw finish. There is plenty of vintage 2018 juice served within. The finish needs time to settle, and tuck in better. 13.5°. 85% Gren, 5% Cins, 5% Syr, 5% Mourv. €40. From 2022. 2039-41 Oct 2019

2017 ()

(vat) dark red robe. Prune fruit, bosky airs, outdoors feel, garrigue trails, with a touch of musky flowers, on the nose. The palate bears a neat ball of plum fruit with tar, black raisin edges, notes of tannin and a small surge of power as it closes. That needs to fuse, so leave until 2022. The aftertaste is still dry, tight, a bit taut. This can get there, has some character, the tannins nicely cussed at present. 13.5°. 2039-41 Oct  2018

2016

(vat) dark red, full robe. The bouquet is thick with mulled black berries, blueberries, prune, notes of laurel adding a lighter touch. The palate is full, potentially expressive, holds elegant, rich matter backed by well ripened tannins and their addition of density. The second half has a little lift and flair that is pleasing. This is genuine, tasty, natural Châteauneuf with no forcing in its style. From late 2019. 2038-41 Oct 2017 GB £135 6 b i/b https://www.sundaytimeswineclub.co.uk/jsp/content.jsp?pg=rhone16

2015 ()

(vat) shiny, nicely full red robe. The bouquet is neat, carries attractive black berry and black cherry fruit with on the money sweetness to enhance it, and a note of licorice and tarriness. The palate is enjoyably fluid, with stylish black fruit running its course. The finish brings in salted, mild tannins. This sings a quiet song, has a relaxed style, is easy to appreciate. It will show well quite soon – from spring 2018. 2032-34 Sept 2016

2014 ()

(vat) shiny dark red. The nose murmurs rather than declares, bears an air of black berry fruit, a note of smoky leafiness, thyme and dried herbs. The palate centres around cassis fruit, carries clipped tannins for the time being. The content rolls freely around the palate. This will make steady progress, and there is enough depth to accompany game dishes in time. It offers more on the finish than the attack for now. From 2018. 2030-31  Oct 2015

2013 ()

(vat) medium+ purple hue. The nose gives an air of bright red berry fruit, the fruit having a lovely purity. This is clearly accented towards the fruit. The palate is juicy and expressive, with sweet Grenache to the fore. It has a fine structure, with grainy tannins on the finish. This is a solid package, and is more than correct for the vintage. From 2016. 15°. 2025-26 JL GB £240/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com Oct 2014

2012

(vat, bottling Jan 2014) STGT alert here. Fair red, Grenache-led. Sizzled bacon, grilled air, an implicit strength in the bouquet. Herbs such as thyme are attached - red berries in the pan simmering away before the jam stage. The palate presents a chunky Grenache heart, is centred on its plum fruit, mulberry. Chiselled tannin lies inside it, so the last impression is flinty, clear. Juvenile, local wine that will appeal for example from 2017. The nose and the palate link well. Good, grounded STGT Châteauneuf, no false frills. I like its genuine, burrowed depth. From late 2015. 14°. 100% concrete vat raising. 2025-27  Nov 2013

2011 ()

red robe; sweet, curvy red cherry fruit aroma, redcurrant jelly in the nose, a hint of licorice. It is in a primary, one card trick state. This is a loosely fat wine, with easy, suave features. Its red fruit is perfumed, carries a little late tannin, is styled for restaurant-bistrot drinking. It is modern, fat, has agreeable fruit and needs leaving until mid-2014 to knit together the attack and the finish. 14°. 2028-31  Dec 2012

2010 ()

tinted plum red robe; mulled red fruits air, the nose runs on a sweet, near liqueur path, the fashion for fatness prevails here. There is a liberal sprinkle of thyme and herbs in the aroma. The palate is simply fruited – it holds Grenache with a growing base and presence of pebble dash tannins. It ends on a considered, nicely firm note. The finish is flinty, varied. From spring 2013. Lacks a little inspiration, but the finish helps it out. 2029-32 Dec 2011

2009

pale red, purple. Juicy, sunny, sweet nose that lacks nuance. The palate drinks on clear red fruits that have sweetness attached. Almost a primeur style of easy approachability and underplayed tannins. There is a little gain in width the end. This version bottled Dec 2010. To 2025-27. March 2011 Previously Oct 2010 bottled already ***: three-quarter depth red; red berry in a breezy nose, no real stamp of significance, shows a mild Grenache red jelly air. The palate is all over rather quickly – there is a brief ball of red fruit, along with some dry-style outcrops and tannins. The fruit doesn't prolong. Has a friendly debut, but lacks complexity. From mid-2011. 2022-24 Oct 2010

2008

bottled already: sweet berry first air – it is an ensemble, can vary over time – has oily, jam top notes, with grilled, licorice under airs. Agreeable, balanced black fruit on the palate – this has greater immediate harmony than many 2008s. Is clean along the palate, has enough depth to satisfy, without posing questions. Very orderly, has a little tannin on the finish. From mid-2010. 2019-21 Dec 2009

2005

quite a full red robe; even-sided bouquet of red fruits with poise, persists quietly, has a touch of alcohol on its outside. Supple, interesting red fruit attack, a soft and direct wine, not from the big hot stones area, I would surmise. Keeps going well, is an orderly, wine, but restrained and not especially corpulent. Maybe a bit robbed by a Prestige cuvée? Length correct. From 2009. 2023-25 Nov 2006

2004

red with a little advance in it; the bouquet lies away from fresh fruit, and in a zone of overbrewed coffee, burnt brown sugar, caramel, intense, rip raisin, herbs and baked stones. The palate also gives this caramel effect, though there is a limit to its sweetness after half way, where there is a gain in bite but not depth. It is a big wine without the vintage depth to make it really big! Deep raisin, date finale, with alcohol lurking. It ends clearly, as it should for 2004, and is a finely textured wine that will not make old bones on this showing. 13.5°. 2019-21 Nov 2008