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The Wines

33% each Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette (all 1973), from Coste Froide (E), vat fermented, raised with some lees stirring 6 months, malo blocked, 1-1,400 b

2008 ()

pale yellow, legs in glass. Has a fine, mineral-tinted bouquet, with baked white fruits, white flowers, honeysuckle present. So far, so good. However, the palate skips a beat or two – it is light, more airy than expected. It starts on white fruits, then tapers, closes quietly. 2014-15 Dec 2009

2007 ()

pale yellow; reserved, white fruit skin aroma that carries spice and vanilla also – has a traditional style – mixes freshness and some body. The palate has grip, white fruits, the fruit running directly, though it weaves around near the finish. Best with food – but needs to integrate on the end – is a bit bumpy on the palate. There is a late suggestion of honey in the flavour. From spring 2009. 2015-16 Nov 2008

2003 ()

melted butter, lime aroma that is calm.Attractive early flourish to the palate, and the middle is OK. But then it tapers. Has a salty tang, is biting, and the finish reflects dried fruits. Not that fruited, needs more length and has faults. 13.5°. Sept 2004