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The Wines

70-90% Grenache (1950s), 8-20% Syrah, 2-10% Mourvèdre, from 2007-09 50% from clay-limestone soils at Domaine Les Tourelles, 50% from one supplier on a sandy 10.5 hectare vineyard below Les Pallières, part destemmed from 2010 (all whole bunch before), 2-3 week vinification, pumping overs only, aged 70-85% large barrel, 15-30% 2 year 228-litre oak casks 12 months, fined, can be filtered, from 2007-09 also had the 9 hectares of ex-Domaine des Tourelles, own vineyard, 20,000 b

2018

(barrel/cask) very dark robe; the nose gives an aroma of sweet black berry, cassis lozenges, is curvy and easy to appreciate, has an inner damp note. The palate continues that sweet trail, is unusually fat and forward for a Gigondas, isn’t in the classic style. There is a plush, squeezy nature to the content, a sweet density, with red fruits towards the finish. It’s OK, but rather confected for me. I’d like to review this in a year or so. From 2022. 2037-39 Oct 2019

2017 ()

full red colour; smoky nose with an oak influence to the fore, a sense of nettles, and cool blueberry fruit, menthol, licorice. The bouquet hasn’t got together yet. The palate comes with black fruit that is reserved in expression, has a cool tenor, and shows grilling and spice late in the day. It’s a jumble of parts for now. It carries the breeze of Gigondas, but is unfinished at present. From late-2020. 2035-37 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(barrel/cask) quite a dark red robe. Has an elegantly broad Grenache plum-fruited aroma, an inlay of sweetness, raspberry-mulberry alongside. There’s a good variety of red fruits present. The palate gives tasty red fruits with a fluid, convincing run of them into a sweet herbes de Provence finale. The tannins fit snugly; this has good style, is well-balanced, holds pedigree Grenache fruit, and is nice and natural. Decanting advised. From 2020. 2031-34 Oct 2017 GB £140 12 b i/b https://www.sundaytimeswineclub.co.uk/jsp/content.jsp?pg=rhone16

2015

(barrel/cask) dark robe. The nose is juicy, suave, has a curvy aroma of fine black berry fruit, a simmered quality about it. It’s going to appeal openly. The palate bears supple content, is a juicy, smooth orb until the onset of grained tannins after half way. This has good munchability, and entertains as it goes. The tannins are streamlined but insistent. From 2020. 2032-35 Sept 2016

2014 ()

pretty dark red. The bouquet has a salty take, bears black raisin, cool dark fruits, pockets of pepper. The fruit aroma comes out in a narrow funnel for now. The palate picks up the peppery theme, runs with good life. It hasn’t yet taken on its full content, so is a direct and trifle spare wine for the moment. The structure is sound for the future; it’s a wine that has more northern than southern influences. 14.5°. From 2019. 2030-33 Sept 2016 Previously Oct 2015 ***(*) (barrel/cask) quite a dark red. The bouquet has a calm authority, a sleek dark red berry aroma, combines harmony with a quiet depth. The palate offers tasty, smooth Grenache red fruit, with stylish tannins in step until a more powdered finish. This can hum a good tune. It is just a bit tame, a sort of New Wave Gigondas. From 2018. 2025-27  Oct 2015

2013

quite a dark red. The nose carries a spirity top note, a layer of black cherry fruit within. This is latently powerful. The palate is sealed together, holds a concerted juice that only seeps out of its tight frame for now. The tannins are ripe and quite dense. There is a note of charcoal from its oak as it ends, fully. This is pretty big. 14.5°. Leave until mid-2018. 2030-33  Oct 2015

2012 ()

dark red robe. Open already bouquet whose fruit shows well – there is black cherry with becoming freshness and alert appeal; it has young, jelly fruit qualities, and one wants to drink the wine. The palate is similar – there is immediate life in its vibrant black fruit, a polished darkness of tannin, all good and streamlined. This is swift of foot, modern Gigondas. Expect greater breadth and more local nuance from late 2015. It is made to be OK now, though, as in serving the CHR – café, hotel, restaurant – trade, even if its potential wouldn’t be tapped. Time will also help its fullness of length. It is a wee bit functional. 2024-26  Oct 2013

2011

pretty full red; there are mineral dots in its red-fruited nose, which is attractive, has a strawberry fruit finesse – good Gigondas qualities here. The palate rolls along, round and approachable. Its tannins and spine lend discreet support and direction, prior to a good, fresh, low-key menthol end. Pretty, aromatic fruit here, floral and delicate and tasty. Attractive, light dance Gigondas, a wine with ballet moves in it. From 2015. 2024-26  Oct 2012

2010

full robe; very, very primary air – black raisin, with a chocolate presence, a deep layer of fruit that is not yet clear to define, the fruit maybe is blackberry, cassis. The palate has muscle, sinew, a tight, quite intricate nature. The tannins are oaked, and give it wire, sustenance. It displays licorice and a bout of freshness in its finish. Has hardly got going. A sleek sort of Gigondas. From 2014. 2027-29 Nov 2011 Previously March 2011 ****(*) (large barrel, Grenache, sugars completed, malo not, an example) **** good bright and full robe. Mulberry aroma, good depth indeed, is free in spirit, but also has “dark” airs. Good life in the palate red fruit with drive and thorough quality. 17 years. (large barrel, Les Tourelles 1950s Grenache for La Gille, whole bunch fermentation, trying that this year, sugars finished, malo not) ***** dark robe. Big nose with brooding intensity, also reserve, is not a Showbiz operator. There is a real amount on the palate, lovely depth, great persistence. Length good. Out of the Superhighway loop, very good. Magnificent balance. 18-21 years. March 2011

2009 ()

good looking, shiny dark robe; plenty of currently reserved fruit in the nose, has a gracious oiliness, a sure ripeness, is young and primary, not varied, but there are herbs and menthol airs lying low. Set to go. The palate connects well to the nose, delivers oily style black fruit – it is modern and clean with a ripe aggregate of content all around it. It presents a well-juiced ensemble. Licorice and soaked black cherry aftertaste. It picks up bright, dark tannins. 70% large barrel, 30% oak cask raising this year. €10 ex cellars. 2025-27. Has been well bottled. July 2011 Previously March 2011 ****(*) (large barrel, the mainly Grenache base for it, not the final assemblage) ****(*) pure, pretty red. Very bonny nose which is finesse forward, comes with floral notes, light air of red cherry liqueur. The palate bears fine red fruit, is very pure, takes no false steps. There is a good little spread of tannin at the end. Excellent finesse. There is intrinsic power – a smooth hum of that. Scented, attractive aftertaste, sweet-touch red fruit there. Grenache in the Pinot Noir vein. 16-18 years, say. (large barrel, the rest of La Gille, so Syrah and friends) **** bright, dark-tinted robe. Blackberry, smoky nose with earthy notes, black raisin, has depth. “Steely” black fruit on the palate, has gras richness and the essence of black fruit in it. Live, quite punchy tannin ending with chalky notes. Will add verve and spice to the Grenache, shows a spot of late plum fruit, too. 18 years. From 2014. March 2011

2008

(large barrel, to be bottled in 3 months) three-quarter depth red; harmonious, red jam aroma with some oily, grounded backing – a good debut thanks to a little herbal, thyme style influence as well. The palate is nicely worked, making for an engaging wine: it holds clear fruit, and runs with enough body to go with lamb in rosemary, for instance. There is a smoky aspect in the black cherry fruits. Good, drinkable. From autumn 2011. 2019-20 June 2010

2007

(barrel/vat sample) full, dark red; smoky, wide nose with a floating elegance – shows sweet plum liqueur and floral wisps. The palate is softly textured – this is sit in the sofa time – it is pretty and easy to drink, with sugared tannins and floral moments late on. Very bonny, pretty raspberry fruit in this, with notably ripe Grenache to thank for that. Has a pebbly late moment. 2019-20 Nov 2008

2006

steady, quite full red robe. Smoky, high tone, rather “high” red fruit, long hang time grapes, are mulled-like. The palate is subdued – it`s raining today – and doesn`t fire today. Plain red fruit, workmanlike. Its constitution is patchy. The length fair. From late 2009. 2017-18 Nov 2008 Previously Nov 2007 **(*) quite a full red; has a funky, meaty downhome nose, with red fruits at its core – has a sappy nature. The palate gets off to a richly textured start, is rounded, almost gourmand. It runs on with a plump texture; the fruit is supple, with some late tannin. It is in thrall to its rich fruit, is a wine of roundness. A clean style of Gigondas, with just a little local earthiness in it. Can be accessible early on. 14.5°. 2016-18 Nov 2007

2005

smoky, rather upright nose – has a compact air, and needs time. There are some bristling red fruits with dark tones about them. The bouquet requires leaving until late 2009. The palate is a considered, reserved affair. Starts with some red fruit, gains weight and roundness as it goes, showing richness towards the finish. There is a late burst of coffee in the flavour. Has plenty of flow, weight and potential. From 2009, but it is rich enough to be drunk before, if you don`t mind the limited aroma. 2018-19 Nov 2007 Previously Dec 2006 ***(*) reductive, hung game nose that demands the wine be decanted – the aroma is broad and profound, though. Blackberry fruit on palate, which has a full core, is punchy. A woven wine that is rich all through and less reductive than the nose. Esp mid-2009 on. 2019-21 Dec 2006

2004 ()

has a cooked bacon, floral air to the bouquet – this is like the Gigondas of the olden days from the Roux brothers at Les Pallières, and has a tender, refined side to it. Holds a sound, well-knit attack, with lots of character. Reveals stylish fruit and good élan. Classy and elegant, it has a rich, smooth texture. This is successful Gigondas - long, and holding great fruit. It will sing a good tune around 2010-14. 2018-20 June 2006

2003 ()

ripe red fruits nose, is beefy, wide. The palate reveals ripe red fruit that is accompanied by sound, also ripe tannins. The tannins add a white pepper finale. Good length, has a mineral aftertaste. Esp 2007 onwards to allow the finish to fuse and settle. To 2012-13 March 2005