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The Wines

100% Grenache, from a 0.9 hectare sandy plot plot L’Argné below the village, mostly Grenache 1890-1910, part destemmed, 3-4 week vinification, pumping overs, aged 600-litre casks 12 months, first wine 2004, fined, can be filtered, 1,400-1,500 b

2017 ()

dark red; the bouquet comes forward well, offers appealing black berry fruits along with mulberry, with a tremble of sweetness, is all together, most stylish. There are herbs, tar notes. The palate runs effortlessly on mixed berry fruits, has class, precision, and a most likeable build in depth as it finishes - a really well orchestrated wine it is. The tannins carry a powdery fineness, and fit like a velvet glove. It is STGT Gigondas that captures the finesse of the sand extremely well. 14.5°. From 2022 or so. 2040-43 Oct 2019 Previously Oct 2018 ****(*) (barrel) full, dark red; the bouquet is stylish, shows neat black cherry fruit with an on the button ripeness that gives pleasure, a touch of prune and some oaking. This is smoothly textured, gliding Gigondas that persists with style, has the sap of the old vines to unfurl along its length. There are fine pedigree tannins and their powder on the finish. It’s all well orchestrated. The finish brings notes of ash, a change in texture there, is accompanied by a stealthy surge in the thick juice. It has the cool dabs of Gigondas around its elegant tune of content. Oak appears again on the close. Decanting advised. From 2022. 2039-42 Oct 2018

2016

(barrel) dark red. Has a well charged nose, giving mixed herbs, inner strength from effortless old vines fruit, mulberry red berries. This is big wine in a relatively velvet glove, its richness thorough and sustained. The finish is chunky, assertive. It’s a big wine for the long haul, is lined with layers of dense red fruits. The finish closes a little dry, rather baked. Compressed old vine fruits show well on the nose, but the palate is a bit more done by design, intervention. From 2020. 2033-36 Oct 2017 GB £145 6 b i/b https://www.sundaytimeswineclub.co.uk/jsp/content.jsp?pg=rhone16

2015

(barrel) very, very dark robe. The bouquet has a very ripe fruit density, an air of fat, plump prunes, a note of dampness. The palate hits the ground running, bears juicy, fat and redondo content with measured tannins that support the finish well. It has a thread of saltiness across it, and some pockets of mystery, is potentially a complex wine. Within all the depth lies an elegant wine, with a bucket load of length: way to go! It has an earth shaking quality. From 2021. 2036-39 Sept 2016

2014

(barrel) red robe; the nose is intense, southern, flirts with headiness, gives a sustained, imposing aroma of mulled red berries. The palate also comes in a kirsch, concentrated manner, with coated content and smooth, inset tannins. This has an orb-like shape, is a big wine delivered with a degree of suaveness. From 2019. 2030-33  Oct 2015

2013

bright plum red colour. The bouquet is deeply set – has airs of dark berry fruit that comes with liqueur undertones, raspberry and red cherry, some licorice and a note of baking. It is a big and upfront nose. This has scale, comes a cross broadly, with a firm spine of crisp tannin, leading into a rocky, crunched, glowing aftertaste. Power lies at the heart of this. It needs leaving until 2018 to meld its tannin and degree, maybe amplify its content, too. It has tasty moments, a deep raspberry fluid gras showing through in places. It lengthens on its strength. It may be a little top heavy, vis-à-vis its power. 14.5°. 2031-33 Nov 2015

2012 ()

quite a full red robe. The bouquet comes out with a real southern, ripe statement. Aniseed, mixed herbs, roast lamb in rosemary, prune fruit. The palate is broad, copious, offering a really full display of closely packed red fruit and smoky tannins. This has high octane depth, with the coolness of Gigondas to corral it and prevent it from “boiling over”. It continues with determined length, and shows a ball of intense Grenache fruit there. Decant this. 14.5°. From 2019. 2033-36  Oct 2015  

2010

very dark red with some surge of black. Ahh. Serenity on the nose, a voluptuous black berry fruit, light black truffle airs with it, violet also. Really good, and full of promise, has an adorable sweetness, comes in a fine vein. The palate is thoroughly tasty, a complete example. It says Vieilles Vignes on the label – and delivers that, thanks to a genuine gourmandise and a supple, beneficial texture. Who wouldn`t want to drink this? Bundles of flavour and pleasure. Good balance. Grand Vin – excellent Gigondas. 2030-32 Nov 2011

2009 ()

(large barrel/vat) rather full red; spiced, sweet spice, red stone fruit air, a wave of floral influences, breathes a collective garrigue power. The palate is muscular, full, nearly ready to bottle. Has a robust, complete fullness, and is a rare example of 2009 with apparent heat in its late stages. It finishes on local tones – terrace stones, pine-thyme-menthol. Marks for local character. From 2014. €20 ex cellars. 2028-30 July 2011

2007

bright, full red robe. Rather reductive, gamey nose with abroad, full of potential backdrop: there are ripe, jam airs on this. The palate offers juicy, abundant Grenache from its sandy soils – it shows lots of fleshy appeal and also keeps moving well. Has a fine, smooth texture, its fruit springy all through, while the finish is wide and satisfying. Local virtues mingle with beauty in the making. 2015-18 June 2010 Previously Nov 2008 *** (cask) full red, purple colour, with a touch of black in it. The bouquet is ripe and rich – this is a real child of the sun and wind: there are honey-caramel, raisin-date aromas that are fairly fresh. The palate veers towards being a dessert wine, especially at the end, towards a Vin Doux Naturel. The flavour is intense, with dates, violet and prune and rum cake. It borders on the OTT (over the top). Leave until 2011 and see how it goes – it will benefit from patience. There is no end heat – a good sign. 2025-28 Nov 2008

2006

modest, plum red. Savoury, lamb stock, herbal aroma – the fruit is mature, slightly reductive. The palate fruit does well given today`s low pressure – has a genuine Grenache roundness at its heart. Proceeds carefully, gains tannin and Gigondas freshness. A wine of good heart, nicely done, true to its place, STGT. Is wide and pretty long. 2019-21 Nov 2008 Previously Nov 2007 ****(*) bright, pretty raspberry red robe; there is red fruit with some dash about it on the nose – has a good foundation, is aromatic and there is variety to come. The palate starts immediately rich, its red fruit is ripely delivered, with a good, fine, savoury texture. It flows all through the palate, consistently, with a late charge of licorice and aniseed. Has a classy, effortless richness; its 14° is not forced. Very beau and silken, drinks well now, and reminds me of the Grenache of Rayas. 2022-23 Nov 2007

2005

full red colour with some advance in it; has a dense, sustained and wide nose that shows a bit of pepper, comes with plenty of mulled, savoury garrigue plateau appeal, and a bit of light raisin. The palate holds accomplished black berry fruit, and late on there is a violet and herbal oncoming. This is ripe in nature, with some live tannin that is absorbed. Very beau wine, from 2010 for most harmony. 2024-25 Nov 2007

2004 ()

has an elegant black fruit aroma that is still reserved – reflects griottes or soaked cherries, with floral or violet trimming. The early palate juice comes along roundly, with discreet depth in it. A well-charged wine, and it shows its true qualities towards the finish, having gained as it traverses the palate. Very clear wine, with a clean-cut elegance and character – is the antithesis of the old lusty, meaty Gigondas, the “meat and potatoes” brigade. The texture is suave, but not falsely made up. There is some measured tannin inside, and I would drink from 2010. 2020-23. 13.2°, only 14 hl made this year, or 1,865 bottles. June 2006