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The Wines

100% Grenache (1920s) from sandy, clay-limestone galet stone soils on Pignan (N-E), destemmed, 5 week vinification at up to 28°C, cap punching and pumping overs, steel vat raised 18-20 months, unfined, unfiltered, 4-6,000 b


(steel vat) dark robe; the bouquet is a deep bundle, a basket of mixed berry fruits, sweet blackberry coulis, hints of crème de menthe, griottes or soaked cherries. It’s a swell opening. The palate is weighty, suave, replete, carries an accentuated ripeness and has a soaked fruits feel to it, mulberry and raspberry. It’s a sipping wine due to its soaked nature. The fruit is pretty pure, if on the dense side. From 2024 – allow it time to start to loosen up. 15°. 6,000 b. €36. 2043-45 Oct 2019


(steel vat, bottling July 2019) dark red robe, a matt tone. The bouquet rests on sweet, luscious cassis and also blackberry fruit, has an oiliness from the ripe crop. The palate is also filled with cassis fruit, the tannins supple and trim as it goes. The fruit is delivered with vigour, and the length is extended, the finish on mulberry, some rocky outcrops there. This has an aromatic side, and is pretty genuine. 15°. 6,000 b. 100% Grenache. €36. From late-2020. 2039-41 Oct 2018


(vat, bottling Jan 2018) deep, dark red. The aroma is a sweet, musky coating of red fruits, all mulled together, the sweetness prominent. The palate gives textured and perfumed intensity of red fruits, a true essence of Grenache that goes very long. This is STGT wine – the sand, the Grenache and the vintage are very truly represented. It has a savoury nature, and spins a genuine wheel of pleasure. I rejoice in the fact that it hasn’t been oaked, even though concrete would be preferable to steel. 15°. 6,000 b. €36. From 2021. 2038-40 Oct 2017


(vat, bottling Feb 2017) dark red. The nose gives an air of mulled black berry fruits, with a prune, mulberry and blueberry accompaniment. It has quiet style. The palate is elegant, continuous along its lissom path, bears small berry fruits, and trim, harmonious tannins. It finishes with some momentum, a build in that. This has attractive detail, and I give it marks for that. 15°. 6,000 b. From 2019. 2029-32 Sept 2016


(vat, bottling March 2016) dark red robe. Has a blackberry aroma, the nose reserved overall. There is a soft floral aspect, and it suggests a future easy harmony. The palate attacks on cassis, bright fruit with likewise bright, lively tannins driving it well. This delivers gusto and a running fruitiness. The juiciness is appealing. Well woven tannins needs another three years. 15°. 5,000 b. €35. From mid-2018. 2029-31  Oct 2015 


(vat) shiny, dark robe. The nose has a coated depth, a generous black cherry fruit and berry fruiting, a liqueur fruit heart with sage and sweet herbs: there is no escaping this bouquet. The palate attacks on delicious lozenge black fruit, the concentrate of black berry coulis poured into the glass. Ripe tannins accompany it well. The finish is round, quite powerful, well-packed: it is a bit fruit bomb-like, its scale big, but ends clearly. The fruit is potentially compelling for its early middle age. From late 2016. 14.5°. €35. 2027-28  Nov 2013

2011 ()

(vat) attractive dark red; has a redcurrant coulis, prominently fruited air, with sun in its veins, rosemary and licorice, a nice little coolness. The setting is quite sweet. The palate sequels from the nose, led by fat, quite fluid raspberry fruiting, all in a round, smooth texture. Some low-key grain tannins follow. Spherical wine that glistens with its fat, will appeal. The fruit clarifies a little towards the finish, a good sign. Fat but fine and mobile, has class. 14.5°. From late 2014. 2027-29  Dec 2012


(vat) rather dark colour. Has a supple blackberry air, resembles spoonfuls of sweet fruit, or black jam; there is also a marked prune presence that continues on the palate`s flavour, with a floral, lightly rose-hip accompaniment. It is sweet all through, but keeps moving, its tannins absorbed. Regular wine, sound and rounded, but showing a lot already. From mid-2013. 2024-26 Dec 2011


(vat) purple-red robe; has a really overt nose – bang! Blackberry liqueur, and there you go. The palate is also full of blackberry – this already has lots of cards on the table. There is a murmur of tannin towards the finish, and some heat there. This is doing a lot already – it gushes out. Its fruit is sweet and plush all through – there isn`t one rough edge. A Fruit Bomb wine: how interesting is it, though?? From 2010. 2019-21 Nov 2008


(vat sample) full, bright red; has a wide, easy-fruited nose, with some of the now fashionable red fruit liqueur or kirsch in it, and a hint of raisin and coffee. The palate is a supple, rounded affair that is “out there” – comes in an obvious, perfumato style. There is a little late tannic encampment that needs 3 years to disperse and to integrate. Holds a peppery, cherry fruit aftertaste. Is a little made by numbers, with obvious cellar work. From 2010. 2022-24 Nov 2007


handsome, bright plum robe; has a brewed, rather “mighty” nose – it brings in raisin, prune, ripe black fruit with some eau de vie airs – kirsch, Poire William, and shows some extraction. The palate gives a mix of dusty and fleshy prune on the start – this theme continues, the mix of flesh and dryness. It ends on a dry note, via oaking, the aftertaste is raisin. Big, bountiful wine that should be left to integrate – there is plenty of richness to allow that to happen. One note of caution – a seam of alcohol through it. 15°. From 2011. 2023-25 June 2008 Previously Nov 2006 **** quite dark robe, complete all the way up; smoky black fruit with some sweet, sappy appeal after a little dustiness at first, also some pepper here. Black berry fruit with also a dusty side on the palate. Sleek in style, is a wine with some impulse and energy. Rounded prune, spiced flavour, Asiatic spices. From 2010. 2023-27 Nov 2006


bright, pretty and quite full robe; baked plum fruit on a full bouquet, is still reserved and not truly knit. Good, springy fruit start, then tannins tighten it from half way. Dry towards the finish, its acidity keeps it live. The fruit is clean, in the modern style, with oak attached. A bit of a push button wine, I have to say. From 2009. 2019-21 Oct 2006. Raised 23 months this year.

2003 ()

pretty rich looking robe; simmered red fruits, very Grenache style aroma. Red fruits also on palate, last well, though show the house style in their reserved way. Some end definition, white pepper there. More open and varied by 2008. 2017-19 July 2005

2002 No Rating



nice, meaty, full bouquet – handsome red fruits, some baked fruit tart here. Live, bonny, vigorous wine, with its density well spread throughout.. Has minerality and life in it, is good and stylish. Quite profound with an upright shape. Still youthful. 2019-21 Dec 2006


earthy, quite fundamental bouquet, some olive, tar, black fruit syrup, smoky. Three-quarter weight Châteauneuf, solid towards finish, just at start of second phase. Black berries on the attack, a bit of licorice. Tannins can soften further. Reserved still, esp from 2007. 2017-19 July 2005

1998 ()

matt plum colour. Simmered fruits nose, spirity traces, quite chunky; is masculine, shows typical, prune, leather. Upright, peppered palate, a manly wine. The freshness is in the usual domaine style. Structured, sinewed wine, is more cellar than vineyard, crop late picked and lacks fruit generosity on the palate. Finishes rather short. The eye of the beholder rather than nature on show here. 2014-15 October 2005, Copenhagen