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The Wines

50% Grenache (1950s-60s), 0-25% Syrah, 25-50% Mourvèdre (1950s-60s) from North-facing sandy, compacted safre, galet stone covered soils on Les Bédines (N-E), 10 day interval in harvesting Grenache then Mourvèdre, destemmed, 5 week vinification at up to 28°C, cap punching, a little pumping over, 80% steel/concrete vat, 20% 600-litre oak casks raised 18-20 months, unfined, unfiltered, first wine 2007, 2,400-4,000 b

2018

(vat/casks) damson plum red colour; the bouquet has a trail of blackberry fruit, lozenges and sweetness in its wake. It’s perfumed, and almost heavy. The palate has a red berry flavour, raspberry, with some garrigue influences, herbs, after the mid-point. There is pedigree in the Grenache, while the tannins come through with some strength as it finishes. 15°. 4,000 b. 50% Gren, 50% Mourv. €36. From 2023. 2042-44 Oct 2019

2017 ()

(steel vta/casks, bottling Aug 2019) dark red colour. The bouquet is a mixed affair, involves meat stock, crushed raspberry, garden mint, coffee beans. It has depth, some mystery in that. The palate starts fully, is always decisive in that respect, keeps a tight grip all through. The well-ripened tannins give a firm lining to the close; this has the structure to evolve with interest, so be in no hurry. There are garrigue notes, fennel, flint, on the prolonged finish. 15°. 4,000 b. 50% Gren, 50% Mourv. €36. From 2022-23. 2042-44 Oct 2018

2016

(vat/casks, bottling Jan 2018) deep red colour. The bouquet produces a vibrant aroma of musky prune fruit, soaked cherries, is very ripe. There are damp undernotes. The palate is squelchy, fleshy, with plenty of tasty fruit, moments of mulberry and strawberry apparent. The aftertaste is sweet. This is rather flashy, obvious wine, which I would sip rather than drink freely. 15°. From 2020. It will gain welcome focus over time – into the 2020s. 50% Gren, 50% Mourv. 4,000 b. €36. 2037-40 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(concrete vat/casks) full robe. Soaked black berry fruits feature in a weighty, multi-layered bouquet. Alert: this is Big Wine. The palate is immediately rich, gives an orb of coated black fruits that come with a lissom texture. The question is how much do I want to drink at one sitting? The answer is one glass, maximum. Its power and degree are enveloped in the fat matter, but it goes that bit too far to be classed as a finesse Châteauneuf. Black cherry mingles with its tannins on the aftertaste, tannins with some cut. From 2020. 2030-32 Sept 2016

2014 ()

(vat/casks, bottling March 2016) full, dark robe. The bouquet has substance and breadth, mixes black raisin, prune fruit with oak. It has plenty of potential. The palate rocks along well, is vigorous, and delivers a good sweep of live black cherry fruit, flecks of oak-charcoal present. This has running to do, is an up-tempo wine that holds good quality gras. It will fuse well. The finish is fresh. 15°. 50% Gren, 50% Mourv. 3,000 b. €35. From 2019. 2032-33 Oct 2015

2013

(vat) deep, bright purple colour. The nose is full and ripe, gives strong cherry, plum and licorice notes. The fruit on the palate is unctuous, with a dusting of vanilla from what seems like oak. This is ripe and generous, but achieves harmony. There are firm but fine tannins on the finish. The oak/nutty angle needs a bit of time to settle. 15°. From 2017. 50% Gren, 50% Mourv, 3,000 b. 2028-30 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

(vat) dark robe; meat, entrails, cooked plums, with sweet herbs all together in the nose, shows red fruits, licorice and flint, has a grunt factor. The palate is well fuelled with gushing red liqueur fruit, soaked raspberry; it carries low-key, firm tannins with it, and produces an extra fired-up fruit spur of hedgerow berries as it ends, a game note there also. Sound balance, but it is rather droopy, pedestrian. Decant. 14.5°. 50% Gren, 50% Mourv this year, 3,000 b. €35. 2025-27  Nov 2013

2011

(vat) dark red; has a wide, rather substantial nose of depth and promise, with well-sustained red fruit at its centre, a light meat stock. The palate sets off running, with an attractive wave of red berry fruit that has spice implications; it ends on herbs, with some dusty, dry notes. There is a light note of freshness and fibre in this. It can close together further and intensify. From 2015. 14.5°. 2026-28  Dec 2012

2010

dark robe; attractive, wavy black fruits aroma that is immediately likeable and harmonious, aided by its tender floral airs, a low undercurrent of spice, licorice, black coffee. The palate is supple, fruited, generous on the attack, is a plunge right into its pleasure. Fi9ne tannins follow with good absorption already. Grand balance here, is a real pleaser. Subtle acidity traverses it, is a beauty with excellent harmony. From 2014, but is very generous and will always show agreeably. It is a true child of sand with its finesse. 2030-32. €35 at the cellar. 50% Gren, 50% M this year. Dec 2011

2009

(vat/cask) full red. Cherry liqueur, open and brimming nose, tang of licorice, black soaked cherries with clear-cut airs. Juicy fruit on the palate, plenty of gusto in it, ends on the flavour of raspberry. The texture is agreeable, with some tannic grip to bolster it on its end stages. Crunchy late black fruit, power emerges there. Sweet moments along it, with the length satis. From 2013. 2023-24 Oct 2010