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The Wines

55-70% Grenache noir (1920s-30s), 10-15% Mourvèdre, 10-15% Cinsault, 10-15% Syrah, Grenache gris from sandy, clay-limestone soils on Valori (N-E), La Croze (W), Palestor (N), Ventabren, Les Gaillimardes (S-E), destemmed, 5 week vinification at 26°C inc 3 week maceration, twice daily cap punchings, pumping overs, aged 50% concrete vat, 50% young large oak barrel 12 months, unfined, unfiltered, first wine 2009, 15,000-22,000 b

2018 ()

(large barrel/concrete vat) dark robe; the bouquet is broad, inky, firm, well fuelled with airs of red fruits, soaked red cherries, menthol. The palate reflects strength of the lands, carries bounty with firm tannins lined up. It’s a generous Châteauneuf, most engaging, has a genuine depth, carries STGT virtues of its place. The finish has a nice note of darkness, and is solid, sustained. From 2022-23. 2042-44 Oct 2019

2017

(large barrel/concrete vat, bottling March 2019) full, sustained dark red. The bouquet is ample, wide, raspberry and mulberry coulis style fruits at the helm. There’s a sunny ripeness, a sense of garrigue, at its heart. The palate sequels well, bearing a good charge of Grenache plum fruit with seasoned tannins on the inside. It moves with good effect, aided by the relative restraint in its degree. There are further notes of garrigue on the butty, grounded close, spearmint also. This is STGT, genuine, en finesse Châteauneuf with a real local imprint. 14.5°. 15,000 b. 55% Gren, 15% Cons, 15% Syr, 15% Mourv.  From mid-2020. 2042-44 Oct 2018

2015 ()

(vat/large barrel) shiny dark red. The nose mixes baked black fruits with a touch of sweet raspberry, a note of damp vegetation. The palate suns with enjoyable, suave richness, an elegant display from that.  The tannins are neat, rounded. This will drink well from mid-2018, its clarity an asset. 2033-36 Sept 2016

2014

(vat/large barrel, bottling Jan 2017) mottled red robe, Grenache at the helm. The nose gives an air of reduction, a high, stewed red berry fruit pulp, a note of entrails. The palate has a dousing of red fruit, is a proper, unreconstructed, everyone into the police van Châteauneuf, with classic virtues, de la terre and STGT. It sets up the prospect of game dishes and a log fire, but captures the underlying freshness of the vintage at the same time. The aftertaste is chunky, the tannins still wild. Marks for character and a good level of wildness. 15°. 55% Gren, 15% Syr, 15% Mourv, 15% Cins. 22,000 b. €26.50. From 2018. 2031-33  Oct 2015

2013

plum red robe, a little top advance. The bouquet is moving into a secondary phase, has a cooked plum fruits, spice attachments and floral air, some meatiness. The palate is also right on the march, has a sweet perfumed presence, with spice and quite thick red berry juice. There’s a note of darkness and vintage 2013 tannic assertion in its tarry, mocha style finale. It doesn’t sing, is a regular citizen to drink with stews. Its evolution has been quite fast. 14°. 2027-29 Mar 2018 Previously Oct 2014 ***(*) (vat/large barrel) medium+ depth of red colour. The nose is fragrant, upfront, has a peppery, spicy, red berry nuance. The palate has the same perfumed aspect, bears layered fruit, then is tight and chewy on the finish. Syrah and Mourvèdre components to the fore? It certainly has a structure, so should hold. 14°. From 2017. 2026-27  JL Oct 2014

2012

dark plum red colour, ruby topping. The nose is weighty, has a prune fruit depth, a nice, thick strawberry jam, notes of black raisin, musky flowers, roasted coffee beans. The bouquet is well varied, interesting. The palate drinks suavely, has an in-built, fluid richness with pockets of spice bringing spark and mineral to the late stages. It has a genuine, wholesome quality with a toffee-like note from its oak, a lip smack quality on the close. 15°. 2028-30 Mar 2018 Previously Nov 2013 ****(*) (vat/large barrel, bottling Jan 2015) full, dark red; simmered black fruits in a bouquet that has a roasted, toasted nature, a depth of prune fruit. This is ripe, weighty, southern in style. This is full wine, covers many bases, spreads its liqueur fruit left and right. The effect is wholesome, almost edible: there is plenty in the glass. A true Châteauneuf with some spark in its tannins and its finale. Has character, offers abundance, is genuine. Would be great in magnum at 10 years’ old. Drink with venison, jugged hare. From 2016. 15°. €23. 22,000 b. 55% Gren, 15% Syr, 15% Mourv, 15% Cins this year. 2027-29  Nov 2013

2011 ()

(vat/barrel) shiny, inviting red. Has a sensuous, ripe, charming dark red fruit aroma, backed by licorice and coffee. It is wide, toasted and attractive. The palate launches well – it holds polished, textured red fruit with a good, constant thread of tannins after half way - they are well spliced into the wine. It ends on a clear note. A big, open, modern wine of strong features. From mid-2014. 15°. 2029-31  Dec 2012

2010

(vat/barrel) rather dark robe. Has a curvy, ripe red fruit air, a pleasingly wholesome nature all en jeunesse, on its youth. There is a more serious, grounded inlay for the future, some herbs and smoke. In a hot vintage this would definitely be a gutsy wine. As it is, it is full but mobile, never static. Some currently direct tannins assert themselves. Red fruits are enclosed inside, with the non-Grenache contributors adding smoke and spice, stirring the pot well. A little oak in evidence. From 2014. 2030-32 Dec 2011

2009 ()

(vat/barrel) pretty full red robe; wide, ripple of muscle in the bouquet – has a meaty depth, also cocoa here – it is very compact and thorough, and hums with power. There is definite potential on the palate if you study this: for now, it is on its enclosed matter and oak, and its evident tight-knit tannins. The fruit on the palate is fine and classy, the length good. From late 2013. 2030-32. To be bottled early Jan 2011, on sale from March 2011. €19 Oct 2010