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The Wines

45-50% Grenache blanc, 45-50% Clairette blanche, 5% Roussanne from galet stone clay-limestone & sandy soils on Palestor (N), Les Tresquous (N), crop cooled at 8-10°C, oak cask fermented at 23°C, raised 5-6 months, organic wine, 1,600-2,230 b

2019 ()

rather deeply-hued yellow colour, has a Southern aspect; the bouquet carries the rich weight of the hot summer, is all together, comes with an oily air, a note of peach stone, sizzled butter, and a helpful touch of quince fruit which gives a note of freshness. The attack is broad and stately, its filling meaning it’s unhurried, gives a steady wave of white stone fruits, with notes of tannin towards the finish. It’s a grounded, four-square Châteauneuf with further opening to come. Decanting will help. It’s well suited to Vieille France, Escoffier, butter-based cuisine. This is genuine Châteauneuf, a correct version of the pairing of Grenache blanc and Clairette blanche, the latter bringing a little hum of aniseed towards the close. 13°. 2030-32 May 2020


very pale yellow, a little pear skin. The nose exudes a fresh pear, white plum aroma with some southern sweet roundness below, testament to its ripe crop. There is a dash of aniseed, a ting of clarity. The palate presents white fruits, a soft centre, continues quietly with a slight sense of drift. This is all about expressing a northern take on a southern origin, with the shape direct, the feel fresh, but not quite delivering a proper in-built gras. There are citrus touches along its spine. OK for aperitif, salads, seafood. 13°. To 2021 July 2017


shiny yellow robe. The nose is pongy, reduced, violently so. The palate is fat at heart, with a salted outer casing. Has flan connotations, is more on richness than overt fruit. The nose is really putting off. Shaking it hasn’t helped much, so it has to be decanted probably the day before. Nose 0 Palate 4, an away win. Bottle 2: same eggs, high aroma, fat on the palate. With provisos, this is *** wine. 13°. 2024-25  Oct 2015

2013 ()

pale straw colour with green flecks. The nose is full and broad, but lacks subtlety and charm. It is even a little oxidative (baked apple/pear). The palate is round but unexpressive. Lacks precision in the fruit. 13.5°. 2020-21 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

yellow robe with a top point of apricot, gold, with legs. Baked apple, pear aroma – a nose that is out of the loop, has a jam style, glazed sugar. The palate favours texture over freshness, though it ends clearly enough. The flavour centres on mingled dried fruits, pineapple, smoky ginger, marmalade. Expressive wine, more so than its colour implies, with plenty of gras, a good and traditional heart. Great with a veal chop, sauced chicken. 13°. €21 at cellars. 48% GB, 47% Cl 5% Rouss. 2023-24  Oct 2013

2011 ()

light caramel colour, with an oily glint. The nose gives glazed fruits, baked bread, honey and fruit, beeswax – it is quite a production. The palate starts cautiously, has a firm fullness – this is not a purveyor of charm. There is rather a thick couch of nutty content at the end. Suited to sauced foods, Vieille France cuisine. It seems to be made by a newcomer (tasted blind), as if the maker isn’t sure which path or style is required. It rolls up its carpet a bit early, and we are left with some alcohol. Decant it. Try in mid-2014 for best results. 14.5°. 48% GB, 47% Cl 5% B, bottled Feb 2012,  2,233 b this year. €19 at the cellars. 2019-20  Dec 2012

2010 ()

apricot, low gold colour, legs. Has a caramel, baked pear first aroma that is wide, and in a red wine would be muscular in style. “Here I stand, I am going nowhere” sort of wine on the palate – it is baked, big, comes without much subtle nuance. It is square in shape, has a hum of underpower. I find it rather too firm to please, and food is much needed – wild mushrooms, truffled dishes, veal. Better if 1) decanted 2) left until 2014-15. 14°. €19 at the cellars. 48% Grenache blanc, 47% Clairette, 5% Roussanne, bottled March 2011 this year. 2022-23 Dec 2011