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The Wines

80% Grenache (1900s-1920s), 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre from sandy, galet stone covered soils at Courthézon, part destemmed, 42-45 day concrete vat vinification (down from 2+ months until early 2010s), pumping overs, lees worked, aged 70-90% concrete vat, 10-30% 1-5 year 228-litre oak casks 12 months, unfined, unfiltered, called Vendanges d’Octobre until early 2010s, 11-15,000 b

2016

(vat/casks) sober, rather dark red colour. The nose shows smoky oak above a thick aroma of prune fruit, ripe fruits present with spice and tang. The palate bears good spiced Grenache-inspired flavour, with a squeezy richness, flavours of date and liqueur raspberry, menthol in the mix. It has a lip-smacking length, testament to its richness, and a fleeting note of soft roses, florality, signs it off. There is no sense of excess degree or over-heating. 14.5°. 11,000 b. €27.90. From 2021. 2033-36 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(vat/cask) very dark robe, black with a purple rim. The nose gives a grapey charge, liquid just out of the vat, is very full and wide, brimming with ripe fruit. This is Big Wine, by design. The palate gives a thick coulis of black berry fruit with touches of salt that help its movement, indeed are necessary to save it from being overblown. It’s still a wine to sip rather than drink freely. The aftertaste gives coated content. Its balance is affected by the power within. 14.5°. From 2020. 2030-32 Sept 2016

2009 ()

dark, thick colour; soaked up, Porto hints bouquet, extreme ripeness on display. The palate has that full soaking flavour – this is not at all a breezy drink, one to sip a bit at a time. It is upholstered with a plush fabric. I find some volatile acidity hints from this extreme approach and long fermentation (tasted blind). From 2012. 2020-22 Oct 2010