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The Wines

70-90% Grenache (1950s), 10-15% Mourvèdre, 10-15% Counoise (1920s), Counoise rose from 2-3% to 10-15% from 2015, from big galet stone covered marl, sand, with clay sub soils on Croix de Bois (S-E, 0.7 ha, OK in drought) & sandy soils on Le Pointu (N-E, 0.5 ha, fears drought), 70-90% destemmed, 3-4 week vinification, Grenache steel vat & 3-4 year 600-litre oak cask fermented, Mourvèdre, Counoise 600-litre oak cask fermented, daily cap punchings, aged 3-4 year 600-litre oak casks 12 months, then steel vat raised 9-12 months, made with Gonnet family of Domaine Font de Michelle, 2007-09 made with Eric Michel at Cros de la Mûre, 1,200-2,800 b


(4 year 600-litre cask, bottling spring 2019) steady red robe. Has a cooked plum, damson jam air that is a touch smoky, a hint of oak in it: it’s a broad and assured nose. There’s a good bustle of life on the palate, red fruits, mulberry, plum fruit, with smokiness and white pepper, as if the Counoise (15%) is making its statement. There is Mourvèdre (15%) depth on the nose, so the Grenache comes with two good friends here. This has character, is promising. This has nice depth and flow along the palate, the tannins still agreeably rocky, smoky. “Our Counoise really suffered this year,” Charles Blagden. Decanting advised. From 2021. 2040-42 GB £485 per 12 b i/bond, £530 per 6 magnums i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400  Nov 2018

2016 ()

shiny dark plum red colour; the nose is attractive, on cooked black fruits, floral hints, has a notably firm, also sunny depth, with likeable Southern oiliness, black olives. The palate engages well on gleaming red fruits, plum-raspberry, black olives, comes with salted moments, a good, clear trail that will hold it together over more than two decades. It’s interesting, has hidden pockets. I find Mourvèdre on the nose, and a good continuous smooth texture on the palate. It’s not obviously a Grenache Châteauneuf as it stands now. It ends finely, with Counoise pepper there. It’s elegant, will gradually draw together. It’s more vivid than the 2015. 14.5°. Bottled Oct 2018. 2040-42 Dec 2018 Previously Oct 2017 ****(*) (casks) quite a full red, a ruby rim. The nose gives an authentic aroma of raspberry fruit inspired by its Grenache, a smatter of mixed herbs including rosemary and a note of cut, lead pencil. It gives an image of a tree, pine treelined vineyard with dry soils and wind sweeping across them. The palate is brightly fruited, on the up, again via red berry fruit with spice and close-fitting tannins. The style is a mix of restraint and implicit power from the vintage, and the length is assured, the close fresh. The Counoise brings spice, white pepper to the table. It’s a true, STGT Châteauneuf. From 2021. 2037-40 Oct 2017

2015 ()

steady plum red colour; a prune, cooked plum aroma features in a nose that is becoming curved, shows a gentle development of plum fruit with a little breeze, light pockets of spice and flowers, cedar. The palate shape is still largely upright, bears prominent white pepper-cinnamon [Counoise signature] with tight tannins that give it real frame. It’s fresh, a bit nervous Châteauneuf for now, needs time to charm, has some of the vintage drought in its late moments, a baking effect. Its gras will gain ground. It’s in transition, but there is promise. Has a tobacco box aftertaste. “It has been closed,” Charles Blagden. Counoise rises from 2-3% to 10-12% this year. Good with lamb. 14.5°. 75% Grenache. From spring 2021. 2038-40 Dec 2018

2014 ()

(steel vat) pale red. Toffee, red cherry, strawberry feature in a jam-like aroma. The palate is quietly rich, has a coulis style, red berry jam flavour led by strawberry and raspberry. This is sweet noted, has a touch of garrigue in it. The finale is rounded. It is a little low on density, stuffing, but will charm. It has just enough body for its degree. From 2018. 2027-28  Nov 2015

2013 ()

plum red robe; the nose is well spiced, shows clove, cinnamon, cooked plum, slight baking which is a vintage imprint. It’s a stimulating start, not mainstream. The palate bears a chalky coolness, small red acidulé fruits with darting assertion. It brings out some raspberry jam, a brief show of that. It’s more on vegetal than fruit. Its freshness is good, so it can improve, expand, has its moment of soft gras richness, can go to ***(*). Only 1,200 b due to coulure on the Grenache. 14.5°. From 2022. 2036-38 Dec 2018

2012 ()

red robe. Cherry fruit shows in a charming nose, with a mingling of toffee-caramel from oak, strawberry and licorice. The palate holds squeezy, red pastille fruit with soft tannins, spice and cardoman present. It builds on the finish, has latent power there. It is a pretty full wine, without being obviously so. 14.5°. 2026-28  Nov 2015

2011 No Rating


2010 ()

bright, quite full red. Has a racy, beau bouquet, has airs of smoke, raspberry, red meat, herbes de Provence: it is broad and well-filled. The plate streams with a red cherry, well-coated fruit, and a sure handed density. It glows on the aftertaste. This is good, grounded wine that is expressive and long. The exit is spiced. 14.5°. 2031-33  Nov 2015 Previously Nov 2011 ***(*) quite full red; there is a peppery air in the red fruit, has lateral drift, shows some lees. I note the pepper and cut in the palate fruit – leave this until 2014. It holds grainy, powdery, pushy tannins, and there is fibre in its texture and content. It ends freshly, with no volume there. An unformed wine at the moment; it can become better over time and after bottling. 2027-28 Nov 2011