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The Wines

80-90% Grenache (1950s), 5% Syrah, 5-20% Mourvèdre from galet stone covered clay-limestone soils, 80-100% destemmed, 25-30 day vinification at 28°C, daily part vat emptying/refillings, aged 25% new, 25% 1-year oak casks, 50% concrete vat 12 months, filtered, 18-20,000 b

2017

(concrete vat/new & used casks, bottling Jan 2019) dark, shiny robe; elder berry with blackberry, hedgerow fruits show on the nose, a note of spirit within, a hint of liqueur strength. The palate carries charge, with a compressed content, black cherry, kirsch notes as it finishes, the power rather out on its own there. This is on the limit vis-à-vis the strength in degree and the ability to camouflage it. It’s not “hot”, but the eau de vie notes are a distraction. It needs more flesh. 15.5°. 20,000 b. 90% Gren, 5% Syr, 5% Mourv. €23.90. From 2022. 2038-40 Oct 2018

2016

(vat/casks) dark red. Blueberry fruits that are cool come with licorice, tar, varnish from the oak on the nose. The palate dips into some suave black-fruited content, has the tar-oak all along its path. The finish is quite rich. This has the feel of a wine made for a market segment and its preferred taste, rather than coming integrally from the vineyard. Therefore it isn’t that interesting. It’s been more authentic, and better, in the past. 15°. From 2020. 2033-35 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(casks/vat, bottling Jan 2017) handsome dark red. The bouquet is square in shape, has chocolate, roast beef, black raisin elements, a deep and still discreet in set of black cherry fruit. The palate is structured, firm – there is an eking out of black fruit, blueberry juice which is closely attended by solid tannins. There is matter on the finish, which requires time to round out. Grounded wine still very much at first base, has a touch of extraction which lessens its appeal on the aftertaste. 14.5°. 20,000 b. From 2020. 2032-34 Sept 2016

2012

(vat/casks, bottling Nov 2014) Grenache plum red colour, a light top rim. The bouquet is well together, has “shoulders” and an inherent vigour, airs of cooked plum fruits, spices and also light floral notes. The palate develops a steadily sustained core of stone fruit, prune, with appealing gras. A wine with a picture of small vineyards lined by pine trees, a warm charge at its centre. Has a sturdy heart; the finish is baked for now, has some freedom. Tobacco shows on the aftertaste. Needs to refine its oaking and raising. From spring 2016. 15°. 90% Gren, 5% Syr, 5% Mourv, 18,000 b. €18.90. 2027-30  Nov 2013

2010

(vat/cask) stable, quite full red. The bouquet is promising, bears signs of ripe fruit with a grilled side to it, a deep red plum jelly air within. The palate is on the grain, grilled. Lithe tannins line it, and its matter is subdued for now. It will gain and come forward. There is measured power here, and its fruit peeps out on the finish. From 2014. 2032-34 Dec 2011

2009 ()

(vat/cask) level red robe; waxen, full nose – on a power horse here – has the bouncing heat off the stones, plenty of aniseed, fennel, cumin, a bit of spirit. The palate is also a big do – manly, unreconstructed, driving on Grenache of high degree. The task for the grower is to draw all this together. Authentic local wine that one sips, not drinks freely. Late glow, heat. From mid-2012. €15.80. 2024-26 Oct 2010

2007

quite a full red – a very correct robe. The bouquet is close-knit – rather juicy red cherry is implied – and it comes in harmony and can vary as it ages. The palate is agreeable, offers unfussy red fruit on the start which then continues with good purpose. It ends on licorice – a low-key tannic gathering. A wine of clear lines that will be appealing from spring 2010. Very orderly now, but may tighten in a year or so. 2026-28 Oct 2009

2006

quite a dark robe; earthy, truffly black fruits nose with smoke and charcoal around it – it is primary, but full and well set for the future. The palate blackberry fruit is delivered with a smoky air and tannin lying inside it; it keeps going soundly, delivers some late punch, a tang of raisin in the taste there. Honest wine, with body, and one that will be good with hearty foods. From 2009. 2020-22 Jan 2008