Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

80-90% Roussanne (1993, Les Serres, S-E), 5-20% Grenache blanc (late 1990s, Les Revès, S-E), 0-5% Clairette (late 1990s, Les Revès, S-E), both plots always harvested on same day, concrete vat fermented, concrete vat raised 6 months, malo blocked, 4,500-5,000 b

2018

fine yellow robe; peachy, spring flower blossom aroma, a nose still getting into shape, not yet open, no surprise there. There are lime notes, light ginger. The palate is well swept with iodine, salty touches, crushed peach, white peach and a good, solid late presence. It’s fleshy from the vintage, feels plump – indeed is plump and rich. I sense a note of petrol, aniseed de Marseille. This is local, STGT wine. Decant it. It can tick over on its glycerol. 13.5°. Bottled Jan 2019. 2035-37 May 2019

2017 ()

pure yellow robe; the elderflower, buttercup aroma is fine, has a hint of tangerine and its clarity, with an air of cooked banana from the sun in behind, smokiness, a note of reduction. The palate is well knit, more backward than the nose, bears white fruits, some exotic pineapple flavour, white plums. It ends on gras richness, holds layered content that leans towards thickness. The length is sound. This is very much wine for la table. Decant it. 2034-35 May 2019

2016 ()

sturdy yellow robe; the bouquet is well-filled, calm, buttery, carries southern ripeness, mixed white fruits airs, notes of honey, wax. It’s a serene, elegant start. The palate rolls out a becoming wave of fleshy, gourmand white fruits, peach, plum present, grapey notes with citrus touches towards the finish. This is good, proper Châteauneuf blanc for la table. There is a line of discreet freshness through it, and it’s a most pleasing, quietly complex, STGT ensemble. There is a wee note of tannin on the rather firm close, indicating that it will live well. 13.5°. 2034-36 Feb 2019

2013

healthy full yellow, one or two green tints, legs visible. The bouquet is a swirl of exotic fruits, pineapple-guava, ginger and spicing, toast. This is full and traditional in style. The palate sequels from the nose via a near robust nature, a pretty thick layer of flan, with citrus tang and grippy, near tannic fusion on the finish. It is moving between childish and teenage moments now, is on the move. It bears a salted top edge, the content dense: it needs food, isn’t aperitif style wine. It can live well, and will be very interesting at 10 years-plus. Drink with sauced sea bass, daurade. 13.5°. 2028-30 Feb 2015

2012 ()

yellow robe of some depth. The aroma is broad, buttery, has the fullness of the south, a bonny compote of white fruits air, a greengage presence, a touch of tang, nut, and camomile, with a hint of freshness. This is STGT wine – dried fruits flavour, the local gras in lovely elegant shape – straight off the bat she goes. The length is appealing, its elegance and fullness mixing well. It is more traditional than modern, breathes the bounty of its place, and has been prepared with a deft hand. There is a mix of quince and apricot in the flavour, linden also. It has an underlying complexity, a host of different contributors. After 90 minutes there is an extra flavour that resembles almond paste. Day 2: it rather resembles a nutty northern Rhône Marsanne wine. 13.5°. 2025-28  Dec 2014

2011

yellow, green-tinted robe. Has a nicely ripe nose; there is a mix of citrus, tilleul (linden) over a flan, greengage, spiced couch. Hazelnut and lime feature. The palate has a fat, generous debut, a good and suave glycerol texture. It quietens after half way, has discreet grip, shows a wee saltiness of the Roussanne at the end. The prime flavour is apricot and ripe peach. A grand wine for food, drink now can do, has lots of appeal, and a local clack of garrigue on the aftertaste. Good with sea bass and fennel. Authentic Rhône white. 80% Rouss, 20% Gren bl this year. 13.5°. 2024-25  Dec 2012

2008 ()

(vat) evident, quite full yellow. Pineapple leads off the aroma, with spice, dried apricot – the bouquet, despite some SO2, is direct, clear and bonny. This is a measured, even keel wine – it flows steadily, is rounded, and the finale is rather elegant. A trim do. Good as aperitif. 14°. 2021-24. “I find it is improving – it wasn`t expressive at the start. A.Brunel. Nov 2008

2007

full, bright pineapple yellow. Has a markedly exotic fruits aroma – guava and friends - with snappy spice and good purity at its core. The palate starts richly, with the Roussanne evidently picked very ripe (but not flecked) – this comes in at 14.5°. The palate is freshened by some acidity, which is apparent on the finish as well. Has a butter and lime aftertaste. This has character, is not mainstream. 2021-24. “It's a good food wine; it will certainly close down, but I reckon it could live for 20 years – it is held up by its malic acidity,” A.Brunel. Nov 2008

2006 ()

full yellow colour, a little pineapple in its hue, denotes ripe Roussanne; the nose carries a mix of peppers, spice, pineapple, honey, even an oak aroma. Ripe, rich, buttery texture. This a wine of fat, that runs OK, since it holds together late on. Has a light, fresh, peppery finale, some carbonic gas used to achieve that. Has a spiced aftertaste and sound grip. Can live, ticking along quietly as it goes. 13.8°. 2019-22 “It has always given a sensation of oak, but is handled in concrete: that is the Roussanne's style from Les Serres in the south of the appellation,” A.Brunel. Nov 2007

2004 ()

warm fruit, lightly spiced bouquet, lime here, too. Nicely layered palate.; has greengage, white fruits, and a good, lasting roundness. This is rich, is a food wine rather than aperitif. Has sound length. There is a bit of spice. The Roussanne channels it towards the finish, and contributes a gun flint flourish. 2013-15 July 2005

2001 ()

pale, flinty colour; the nose is soft, though direct, gives easy, clear white fruits, is woken up with breathing time. The palate is more enticing than the nose, develops agreeable fullness, ends with a bonny flourish. Its depth is appealing, there is evident freshness, good grip on the close. It has been vinified in a more modern than traditional manner. 2020-22 Nov 2000