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The Wines

80% Grenache (1973-74), 20% Mourvèdre (early 1970s) from sandy, galet stone covered soils on Crousroute (S-E) at Sorgues, marginally the highest vineyards, a plot selection wine, 80% destemmed, 3-4 week concrete vat vinification, part vat emptying/refilling, pumping overs, raised 4 year 600-litre oak casks 12-14 months, unfined, filtered, first wine 2011, 3,500-4,000 b

2016

(casks) dark robe, inky. The nose has a sweet foundation, an air of roast beef, with black olives, crammed in black berry jam fruit. The palate is darkly flavoured, possesses very good tannins that give momentum and length, an extra dimension. The Mourvèdre lights up the wine, and the Grenache heart is fully assured in its thick content: they make a great team. It’s long and handsome. 15.5°. 4,000 b. €44. From 2021. 2036-39 Oct 2017

2015 ()

dark red, slightly matt hue to the robe. The bouquet is deep, not showy, has a brewed concentration, a red meat aspect with stewed plums and crisp spice present. The palate is spiced, firmly founded, the Mourvèdre playing a strong second half role, lining it firmly and extending the length with great purpose. This has good structure, and will age well, is the most firm wine of the three 2015 reds. It’s very tasty and deserves a good red meat or game dish. The aftertaste is on tobacco, smoke. It’s a proper Châteauneuf-du-Pape, has real character. 14.5°. 2035-38 Oct 2017

2014 ()

dark red. Blackberry, loganberry lead the nose, with a Pez sweets, floral angle, sweet spicing, cooked plums. The access to the Grenache is open, has south winds, warm days connotations. This is broad, well fuelled with red berry fruits, then some still clipped tannins. There is a sense of toffee on the exit, derived from the oak raising. It needs time to shake it down and provide clarity, pep it up, coax it out, and I put that down to the 20% Mourvèdre. 14.5°. From 2019. 2031-33 Oct 2016

2013

dark red, a shade deeper than the 2014. Gentle airs of blackberry and raspberry fruit line the bouquet, with a cool inner, along with the house style of perfumed flowers, pot pourri. The palate is tight, but nicely wavy in shape. Its subdued style means it needs time. Fine acidity, detail are present, with elegance to come. It is potentially more nuanced than the 2014. Decant this. 13.5°. From 2019. 2032-34  Oct 2016