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The Wines

65-70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% diverse – Cinsault, Muscardin, Vaccarèse etc, mainly from Cabrières and Boilauzon, destemmed, 18-20 day steel vat vinification, cap punching, aged 70% concrete vat, 30% 2-3 year 228-litre oak casks 14-16 months (can be aged new-5 year old oak casks 10 months), unfined, filtered, called Le Miocène since 2014, organic wine, 25-45,000 b

2018 ()

(vat/casks) black-tinted robe, very full. The bouquet carried good potential, is suave, not disclosed, breathes nice purity in its black berry fruits. The palate streams its dark fruit in a clear run, gathers good, salted moments towards the finish, lengthens well. The texture is pleasing, and this is well tuned, captures the vintage’s overall freshness. There’s a spot of glow on the aftertaste. 15°. 45,000 b. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. €29.50. From 2022. 2042-44 Oct 2019

2017 ()

(concrete vat/casks) deep, dark red, black tints, a handsome robe. The bouquet has depth and style, a good stream of black berry fruit present, a hint of menthol. The palate holds concerted black fruit content, smoky tannins, has good shape and potential. The fruit is well cut, pure, and the structure is well in place for a good future. This is a superior 2017, with good length and life force. 15°. 45,000 b. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. From spring 2021. 2043-45 Oct 2018

2016

(vat/casks) sound red robe. The nose combines red berry fruit, raspberry, with a little tune of garrigue herbs, spice. It is nicely typical, and will vary well over time. The palate holds crunchy content, a stream of dark red fruits, raspberries and cherries, with lithe tannins bringing a pebbly, rocky presence. The aftertaste is smoky, on cordite. This has good tang, and will fuse gradually into a genuine glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 15°. 45,000 b. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. From 2021. 2040-42 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(casks) dark red colour. The nose has heft, breadth, an inner strength of black berry fruit, some concentration that leans towards prune. The palate is also chunky on the attack, carries a ground force and good warm lands charge. The tannins are a little gummy, unrefined, but this gives a genuine, traditional glass of Châteauneuf. The finish is nicely full and wide, so there is plenty to come. Decanting an option. 15°. From 2019. 2036-38 Sept 2016 GB £205 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk

2014 ()

(casks) full, dark robe. Has a supple blackberry aroma, a little drift of violets, an elegant sweetness, a touch of Marmite darkness, a note of reduction. It is pretty broad. The palate bears fluid fruit, a good black berry flow, and its tannins are nice and fresh. Good balance will allow a bonny unfurling, and steady progress. The mid-palate is tasty. Very good. 15°. 45,000 b. From 2018. 2026-28 £195 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk Oct 2015

2013 ()

dark hue. Red fruit notes with a hint of menthol freshness on the nose. This is juicy and chewy on the palate. Has a medium weight and frame, shows a bit of grip on the finish. Accessible, mid-term wine. From 2016. 2023-25  JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

clear, bright red. Smoky bacon, licorice – a free styling in the nose that has reserves of attractive red fruit, is wide and assured. The palate holds bustling red fruit that has plenty of drive in it. It pushes on with vigour. The fruit is clear, and doesn’t show much spice immediately, although the finish leans that way as crunchy tannins take up residence. This doesn’t aim for finesse, more for active, busy drinking. The finish needs to refine itself. 15°. From 2016. £180 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2028-31  Nov 2013

2011 ()

dark. Loganberry, darker berry jam, fruit paste aroma – a wide and rather succulent nose that is open and pleasing. Soaked, textured black fruits show well now on the palate, are soft and supple. A little tannin builds into the late stage, provides a licorice, chocolate furnishing. The vigour of the tannin will be more integrated from late 2013, but it can be drunk now with a rib of beef, for instance, food which will take care of its active finish. Go-go Châteauneuf, suited to the restaurant trade. 15°. 2024-26  Dec 2012

2010 ()

dark red robe, black tints. Has a broad, somewhat brewed nose. Its fullness is secure, has layering, and is profound. There is a close-knit mix of black jam and raisin. The palate is nicely bountiful – it shows plenty of flavour today – prune plus blackberry with side tannins that have grain and movement, spurring it on. Really nice drinking is coming through here – a “dark”, smoky Châteauneuf with genuine qualities. The length is good, and it finishes freshly. From late 2013. 2030-33 Dec 2011

2009

full red, attractive. The nose is stop-go, backward now: it wants to offer red fruit, then draws back, has a flinty, galet stone warm air. The palate is big: this has a barely concealed throb and power, a close-knit tannin insertion in a meaty, grounded setting. Alcohol seeps out at the end, a spirit note there that tasting without food shows up. It is probably 16°. From spring 2014, but I am vexed by the power. 2027-29 Jan 2012 Previously Oct 2010 **** (casks) good, full robe; oily, dense nose that reveals licorice, secure prune at its heart, has a downhome, rather reductive side and plenty of potential. Rich and muscular on the palate: good, virile tannins really help its drive and life. Has a fine length. The fruit is successful, reductive. Rich potential. From 2013. 2024-26 Oct 2010

2008

bottled already: oaked top air, raisin, pebbly notes – lacks the sensation of young fruit. The palate comes and goes at some speed – there is a small trail of black fruit in with the oak. A light, direct wine. Drink from mid-2010 for less char oak at the end. It may tighten, and benefit from drinking around 2012-13, post-bottling blues possible with this. Less oak = better. 2015-16 Nov 2009

2007

dark, sustained robe. The nose is wrapped up – oak nuttiness, olive, black fruit – it is intense and grounded. The palate is a big affair, has a solid delivery of black fruit, some violet present. There is gras richness within. It ends quietly, and works on power more than finesse. I cannot drink a lot of this. There is chocolate at the end, oak, and a lot of intrinsic power. It must be knocking on for 16°. It needs to lose its oak. From mid-2011. 2025-27 Nov 2009 Previously Nov 2007 some Grenache: a bright robe, like 2006. Has a decent, rich nose – the fruit is ripe. The palate is richly toned, with tannin late on, and a touch more grip than 2006. This has heart, and good core quality. “The Mourvèdre was more tannic this year than in 2006,” Sebastien Jaume. Nov 2007

2006

purple and red mix in the robe. Has softly scented black fruit in the aroma – black berry with jam airs, but it is just a little too intense and pointed for now. The palate holds black fruit with some scale and depth: this is vigorous, more than most. The tannins are ripe, and there is a traditional style fullness in the wine – it is quite chunky, though has no tough areas. Ends on black fruit, licorice and tannin, and becomes a little abrupt as it closes. Gutsy wine if drunk young. From mid-2009. 2023-25. Just bottled. Jan 2008 Previously Nov 2007 ***(*) (pre-bottle) bright, quite full red. Has a pretty broad aroma, led by simmered red berries with a ripe nature. The palate is elegant – there is good flow to this, with lots of gras and elements such as chocolate, oak toast, black prune. The length is good, and this is rich all through. Has a generous nature, with a good, open style. Comes in a clean, modern style. Esp from 2010 on. 2023-25. To be bottled Jan 2008. Nov 2007

2005 ()

full raspberry robe, with some black in it. The bouquet exudes simmered, smoky black fruits with a little blackcurrant, cassis present. The palate starts as a cellar wine rather than a vineyard one – has worked on fruit whose texture is a little taut. The “darkness” in the wine comes from some oak and tannin on the finish. This is broad, can prosper with time, and the length is pretty good. From mid-2009. 2024-27 Jan 2008, London Previously Nov 2007 **** the robe is bright red and clear. The nose carries brisk, quite zappy red fruit – cherry stone aroma with pepper traces. The palate gets going with red fruits that have a nice fresh cut in them, with a live, primary appeal. This skips along in its first youth, but has decent content, and its tannins bring it to a decisive close. A well-defined wine of good, live appeal, with attractive late burst of herbal garrigue in the flavour. From 2010 – it may shut down before then. “It was showing a lot of black fruit and kirsch at first,” Sebastien Jaume – now it is more spiced, herbal and toasted from its oak. 2024-26 Nov 2007 Previously Nov 2006 **(*) (pre-bottle) dark robe; upright bouquet with cool fruit inside, is very modern in conception – has clean style with tar, herbal touches but is a bit tough. Cleanly struck black fruit on attack, with laurel, violet sideshows. Tannins are quite aggressive, there is a bitter side. Some licorice, tar at end. From 2009. Needs to settle down. 2023-25 Nov 2006 “In 2005, the trick was not to pick too soon – we had lovely timing for rain in early September, and that freed up the ripening process that had been advancing slowly,” Alain Jaume

2004 ()

lithe, black fruits aroma of smoky bacon, tar traces, garrigue, is full in nature. Well-cut fruit on palate, gets out of the traps and runs well, and carries black berries with a tannic core to it that is revealed late on. Classic Châteauneuf. Promising wine. Esp 2009 on. 2020-22 Nov 2006 Previously Oct 2006 ***(*) pretty and lustrous quite dark robe; nicely deep, solid nose with potential for more – smoky black fruits now, is broad and lingering. Firmly set, still reserved black jam fruit on the palate. Tannic structure gives good ageing potential. A little upright in the vintage shape, as if a Bordeaux connection. More expressive 2008 on. 2019-21. Oct 2006

2003

mid-plus red. Herbal, warm red fruits aroma, a little raw, big and broad. Meaty, big scale wine, alcohol present here. Heady, a little overdone, contrasts with their harmonious 2001. Spirity presence a distraction. Maybe from 2008 to 2012. Can live to 2015 or so. September 2005, London

2002

middle level red robe. Quite full aroma, fruit is rounded with pepper touches, soft in style. Peppered fruit on palate, but is taut in the middle and firm, going on bitter, on the finish. May 2003

2001 ()

the robe is still largely red; the bouquet holds red plum fruit aromas that are very Grenache in style – a compote of red fruits, with the start of some damp woods in the aroma, smoke, too – this is evolving well. This is a wine that still harbours a tannic presence, and has a lot of structure and youth in it. The fruit is gummy in texture, with a pretty wide grip. The fruits are red and smoky. Ends quite solidly. 2022-24 Nov 2007 before this good bottle, there were 2 bottles corked at the domaine, Nov 2007 – pretty good colour in them. Previously May 2003 ** quite warm, rather modern berry fruit aroma, as in "lacks soul". Easy, quite oily, but piercing black fruit flavour, with a burnt end. The tannins are evident and are detached from the core. The problem is this burnt, tarry finish. May 2003

2000 ()

full, still quite dark red robe that promises a good wine to come. The nose is still vigorous – is nutty, oily with plenty of depth and variety: I like its breadth. The palate grips well – this is a structured wine, with good, secure richness, and maybe some non-Grenache elements that help to drive it and keep the life in it. The length is good, and it finishes clearly. 2020-22. We are at a stage when some inconsistency starts to appear in these older wines – see Nov 2007 notes. Jan 2008 Previously Nov 2007 **(*) red, with ruby at the top of the robe; has a supple, easy-fruited nose with relaxed breadth – is open and willing. The palate starts with red fruits that are softening, then some oak comes along (25-30% oak in those days, too): the oak is still on the premises since the vintage was not that robust. It drinks more openly than the 2001 today. Can still run on. I find the late oak tannin rather troubling – it is overdone in relation to the wine`s weight. 2011-13 Nov 2007

1999

still has a thorough robe, with some black lines in it. Has a measured, agreeable bouquet, with a good, clear flow in it. The palate has plenty of heart, and a black fruit, prune, violet flavour with quite a rich core. Is just edging towards a mineral, medicine stage. Has good local feel, a wine of STGT leaning – it represents its place. 2021-23 Nov 2006

1994

promising colour, dark red. The bouquet shows decent extract, is quite deep and powerful, has good potential. The palate is well weighted, without the depth of the best years; it has a good style – there is elegance and balance in its bonny fullness. Clear-cut wine, with fruit following through to the finish, a very good strain of soft fruit. It persists well, with well inset tannins. Good quality here. 14°. From 2000. 2014-17 Oct 1996