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The Wines

Viognier from Chauramond (1986) at St-Michel, Chéry (1989) at Condrieu, also 1997-2000, vat fermented at 18-20°C until 1050, then placed in new, 1-4 year 300-litre oak casks (total new oak 15-20%), raised 12 months, malo completed, 9,600 b

2018

shiny yellow; the nose is well charged, shows wax, some grilling, aniseed, has real certain depth, ash-cendré notes. The palate is very typical of Condrieu via its pear fruit, measured opening, has a firm feel with long, fresh length. This is more filled, and well-filled, than usual. It has structure, will evolve nicely, thus. “The vines are ageing, like the patron, which helps! It’s served in the grand restaurants – Jules Verne at Eiffel Tower, Bocuse, Lyon - as the aperitif.” 14°. Bottled end July 2019. 2025-26 Dec 2019

2017 ()

fine yellow robe; has a rich air, pear in syrup, ripe nectarine. The attack is fat, then it straightens on a little minerality, has a peach stone flavour. There is grip and noted glow on the finish. This is butty, a bit charged, certainly not aperitif wine. The texture is fat, suave. 15°. Bottled 30 Oct 2018. 2023-24 GB £300 per 12 b i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400  Nov 2018

2016 ()

(steel vat, since yesterday) yellow colour. Lime, plum, aniseed feature in an attractive complexity on the nose, notes of tangerine, a wee touch of vanilla, charming oak. This is a finesse wine, softly fruited, with good, elegant development on the finish, citrus influences. Its acidity is delicate, shows fine detail. It’s an early, very drinkable wine – charming, bang on the button, neat. This includes some young vine Viognier from Chanson. 13.5°. 9,600 b. To 2022 July 2017

2015 ()

fine yellow robe. Pear in syrup, dense apricot airs feature in a very ripe and deep-seated, sustained bouquet that comes also with beeswax, oiliness in the air. The palate gives packed in white fruits, apricot and peach, with a stealthy build towards the finish, then a fresh stretch. This is textured wine that holds compressed juice. There is a sandy, fine grain close, and glow on the aftertaste. It’s not truly balanced, as per the vintage. Bottled Aug 2016. 15°. 2021-22 Oct 2016 GB £300 12 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Previously Oct 2015 ****(*) (300-litre oak cask) nutty-pear aroma in a cohesive, compact nose with promise – it is really well channelled. This is notably stylish, long, an excellent ensemble, with good balance. It shows mineral, fresh features. Has very good, flourishing length. 14.5°. 9-10 years. Oct 2015

2014 ()

pale yellow. The nose is toasted, gives mixed airs of quince, licorice and aniseed, very light pear drifts, spring flowers. The palate has a fresh and good, running debut, offers energy, is really bright wine, with lovely length and freshness. The fruit is racy, resembles apricot and a touch of tangerine. It finishes full of go. You certainly want to drink this. 14°. “There is hazelnut on the finish, which is very fine,” André Perret. 2024-25 GB £250 12 b i/bond or £27.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Oct 2015

2013

pale yellow; the nose is attractive, secure, has an unhurried depth that comes from within. There is a round, inviting pear and apricot. The palate starts tightly, has good structure and frame. Peach and hazelnut show on a firm finish, with some tannin, leading into aniseed and licorice as the final flourish. This has depth, good gras and good length, is a wine for la table. 13.5°. “The vineyard is starting to mature,” André Perret. 2021-22 Oct 2015

2012 ()

pale yellow. Attractive, immediate impact nose that is round and full of appeal. The central aroma is pear fruit, and there are good mineral traces as well. The palate is really drinkable, now; this is “aromatic”, classic Condrieu that offers elegance with a squeezy white fruits undernote. Peach and apricot appear in a pronounced aftertaste. Lovely aroma here, a w.o.w. wine. “This year its raising without stirring the lees played a role; it isn’t a high acidity wines, but tastes freshly,” André Perret. 13.5°. To 2018. £270 per 12 in bond, J&B in GB.  Nov 2013  Previously Oct 2012 a very early impression: (used 228-litre oak cask, sugars not ended) good together, rounded nose marked by pear and hazel. The palate is open, sympa, quiet flesh here. Agreeable, drinkable wine that does not have a lot of acidity but has balance is OK in that context. Oct 2012

2011 ()

clear robe; has a good, rolling aroma across the glass, bears the air of cooked pear, wax, light honey, notable apricot, plus hazelnut. The palate starts with a clear run of white fruit, then spice and deeper notes, grip; it is followed by more jam on the finish, where it is more rounded. It isn’t flamboyant, but is harmonious. A mild year for Condrieu, this. More expressive from mid-2013. 13°. 2016-17  Oct 2012

2010

shiny pear colour in an off cream robe; the nose is rich, leads with banana and flan or custard, but stops short of being voluptuous, has an oily, ripe centre, shows a light air of hazelnut – it is shutting down a little now. The palate is fine, bears gentle, aromatic pear fruit that has a good, firm foundation under it – there is a bonny mix of elements in this. The finish is reserved, but there is plenty in it – it lengthens on some discreet power. Best with food. 14°. To 2018. “it was in over-ripeness this year, for one or two of its plots,” A.P. May 2012

2009

fine yellow robe; sunny, start of white jam in the bouquet, faithful Viognier pear aroma. Tight shape, but easy drinking now, on the button. Apricot and white strawberry fruit in the flavour. The length is sound. Facile, orderly wine. 14°. To 2014. Aug 2011 Previously July 2010 *** cask 1: yellow colour; candy plus pear aroma, curvaceous, full. Textured, rich debut to palate, which ticks over well. Unctuous wine, ends on oak. There is a lot in the early palate – and that makes its length, that early push. A wine for quite prompt drinking. 14.5°. To be bottled Sept 2010. “It is aromatic,” A.Perret. cask 2: shades of elegance on the nose, pear, flowers. Has a good, robust flavour, the attack well-filled. A bit more tension than the previous cask, good. To 2014-15. July 2010

2008 ()

subdued yellow robe; faithful Condrieu bouquet – shows good, ample pear, lime-greengage. The palate is also faithful to its place, has the apricot and vanilla running along it, with late spice and honey. 13.5°. 2014-15 July 2010

2007 ()

pale, bright yellow; the aroma is round and shapely – baked pear fruit with a shimmer of spice. The palate has a fat start, and an oily, musky texture, with obvious richness. It settles towards the finish, and has grip there. From spring 2009 so it can be more integrated, organised. It needs to express more founded flavour and grip in its mid-palate. Bottled Sept 2008. 14°. To 2014. Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 2 casks tried: 1) *** nutted, varnish aroma with honey, wax and some toasting. Has just entered its cask, and there is exotic fruit such as mango. Is more lithe than the 2006. Some measured late heat. This fermented at 18°C in steel, its malo has completed. 2) fermented in its cask: dried fruit, apricot in with the oak aroma. The palate grips tightly, is still fermenting. Has fair weight. Jan 2008

2006

hint of yellow in the robe; open and opulent aroma, is very out and about, and based on ample, ripe pear fruit, plus some reassuring flan. On the palate is a wine for the here and now. There are dried white fruits present, then it is supple and even a bit plush. Decent length, but its acidity is a bit low. 14.5°. To 2011 Jan 2008

2005 ()

there is slight evolution on the nose, with pear and lime tart in the air, and light sprinkling of spice – it has just come off its first flush of youth. The palate holds pretty pear and apricot flavours; there is good grip, acidity and length. It finishes well – can still do the aperitif. Grilled lobster great with this. It is at a sweet moment now, a curvy appeal. w.o.w. wine. 2011-12 April 2008 Previously Nov 2006 ***(*) mild yellow colour; nicely oily, inviting aroma of melted butter and flowers such as honeysuckle. The palate is also buttery, and possesses softly ripe white fruits such as peach. A touch of spice on the end, which holds good grip. I like the acidity. This stylish and open now, is typical. STGT wine. 13.5°. To 2009. Nov 2006

2004

(pre-bottle) restrained, light fruit tart and banana aroma. Pear flavour, elegant feel to it, pretty, round shape. Spice/flan finish, persists OK. Workmanlike. March 2005

2003 ()

(cask) ripe white peach fruit, varnish aroma - unusual. Broad start, big wine, toasted end. 14.5°. Pretty fat overall.

2002 ()

light floral/grapefruit/violet nose. Mid-weight, fair flesh, but not especially round or deep. Subdued white fruit. Was a bit more rich earlier on in its life.

2001 ()

soft, creamy nose, some acidity detectable, stewed pears and a little cut. This is nicely full, has a stylish definition. The texture is still tight, and thorough. Its minerality is welcome. It is more fine than fat. 2008-09 Nov 2005, New York  Previously ** quite ripe pear skin aromas; low-key year, not very rich. Bit dumb middle, oak at end. Pleasant, not more than that.

2000

pear/some rich notes on bouquet; facile, rounded pear, dried apricot flavour. Good, straightforward wine, quiet richness within.

1999

nicely peared nose; floating, gentle quality, sympa. Sound three-quarter weight, good aperitif wine.

1998 ()

exotic, ripe grapefruit aroma; rich, musky, chewy wine.