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The Wines

from mainly 1948 Viognier on Chéry at Condrieu, fermented, raised 65% 228 & 300-litre oak casks (20% new, 80% 1-4 years), 35% vat 12 months, malo completed, 8-12,000 b

2018 ()

fine yellow, shiny robe. Honeysuckle, jasmin flowers, delicacy on the nose; also pear, white plum with a hint of smoke. It’s a graceful opening. The palate is also very shapely, more refined than some vintages, with pinpoint hand out of white fruits including apricot, real elegance in it. The 2017 was more on strength than this. It ends with fine detail, a tiny note of mineral clarity, a dab of citrus. This stands out due to its finesse in this hot vintage. “It has the freshness for at least 10 years of life,” André Perret. 14°. 12,000 b. Bottled Nov 2019. 2029-31 Dec 2019  GB £180/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2017

glistening yellow robe; there’s refinement in the aroma, pear and aniseed, fine grain stone air, fennel. The palate is tasty, broad, holds well couched content, extends surely. It’s big enough, but controlled, is a glycerol infused wine that ends surely, is good to the finish, where there is some glow. Bottled 30 Oct 2018. 15°. 2026-27 GB £380 per 12 b i/bond J&B www.justerinis.com justbrooksorders@justerinis.com +44(0)207 484 6400 Nov 2018

2016 ()

1) (1 year cask, 1987, 1989 Viognier, blending end of Aug) **** yellow robe. White raisins, dried apricots, grapey airs, vanilla. The nose has a stylish depth, is more airborne than 2015. The attack is zesty, its white fruits flowing well, pear and white plums present. It brings in saltiness towards the finish, ending with content and freshness. This is neat, with inner resources, is quietly silky, too. 42 hl/ha this year from these vines. 2023-24 2) (1 year cask, pre 1939 Viognier) ****(*) glistening yellow colour. Considered depth, inner strength on a solidly filled nose, along with nuttiness, concentrate of apple. The palate grips well, all through, has a silken feel, holds stylish gras, really persists on the finish, goes far. Table wine, for white meats, turbot. Its make-up is intricate, via the acidity and the old vine sap-gras richness. Deep down it has a red wine structure. This is beau. “The 1930s Viognier was in great form this year,” André Perret. 2025-26 July 2017

2015

(steel vat, bottling Nov 2016) fine yellow robe. Lime, peach stone, some concentrated pear and orange peel cluster on the nose – there are diverse prompts. Here is class! The palate displays fine acidity, freshness, so the effect is sensuous. It holds  fine, stylish gras with plump, restrained features, is very good. Its balance is better than most 2015 Condrieus, is top grade. There are white flowers, a silken length and fresh elegance on the finish after the stylish richness. This is a triumph for the vintage. “I didn’t de-leaf, so the grapes were in the shade – I wasn’t after over-ripeness, so the grapes were brown, not burnt,” André Perret. 15°. 2025-27  Oct 2016 GB £380 12 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com  GB/HK £195 6 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com Previously Oct 2015 ***** two casks tasted 1) (new 300-litre oak cask) has a low lying bouquet marked by pear – it is wide and deep. The palate is firm, has a tasty middle. This is solid but fresh, is long. 2) used 228-litre oak cask, less than 3 gm of sugars to ferment) glinting yellow robe. Pear and apricot feature in a good, fat bouquet it is very thorough and there is lime also, so conjures some freshness, too. This is sturdy, lateral, properly filled wine with real good length. It is also thorough on the palate, has width and substance. “The pH is good this year,” André Perret. 15°. 12+ years. Oct 2015

2014

(vat now, bottling next month Nov 2015) pale yellow robe. The nose is discreet and promising, gives a quiet pear, brioche, aniseed, greengage plum, hazelnut. It asks you to seek it out, though note that it has just been fined. It will open and vary well. The palate is sealed, compact, holds stylish gras richness, good juice and texture, running as one. The finale is round, full of sure intention. The fruit is round. Flan notes come through on the finish, which is fresher than the 2013 Chéry’s, comes with grip. This is capable of a long, interesting life. 14°. 2025-27 GB £330 12 b i/bond or £35.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com GB £165/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015

2013 ()

bright, quite full yellow robe. Has a firm, filled bouquet, lateral and deep, more on potential than delivery now. Pear and apricot feature. The palate is good and tight, has real structure. As usual, the texture is smoother than that of the 2013 Chanson. It ends tightly, a bit grippy on the aftertaste. It fades a little after half way, drops in brightness, which André puts down to the bottling when he was ill. 14°. From mid-2016. 2021-22  Oct 2015

2012 ()

bottled last week: even yellow colour. Banana, fat fruit aroma, is more copious than the Chanson, shows airs of white strawberry and apricot, extends deeply. The palate starts richly, has a well-directed finesse all through. It ends elegantly and roundly, with the finish wide and rather tenacious, gives red wine aspects. It fits well between the nose and the palate, gives a seamless transfer, and is nice and long. Plenty to amuse and provoke as it runs, keeps going well. “There is a certain freshness; I give it 8 to 10 years, it can live; I did magnums this year because of that,” André Perret. £335 per 12 in bond, J&B in GB. 75% oak this year. 14°. From late 2014. 2024-25 Nov 2013 Previously Oct 2012 **** to ****(*) (steel tank, sugars ended) good grip and bounty on the nose – I can imagine this being highly aromatic. The palate has good style,a touch of extra depth, with a near tannic note at the end. Fine, finesse here. Has gras. 10 years life.  Oct 2012

2011 ()

(tank, the final wine, assembled 1 month ago, bottling in 1 month) good glint in its mild yellow; this has a notably pure aroma – pear fruit elegance runs through it, hazelnut, pear skin, a little spiced muskiness. The palate continues the elegance, the fruit as some darkness and bite in it that is connected to its oaking. A Smooth Operator, with a good sense of terroir. Balance is good. One of the most fine Chérys that I have tasted. It will be an impressive ensemble around 2015 – the matter is not big, but it has a very fine tread in its step. It lasts nicely and delicately. “Its tension and freshness are a bit Burgundian,” A.Perret. 2019-20  Oct 2012

2010

fine yellow colour; there is pretty fat on the nose – shows vanilla, pear, is smoky from some oak. Also gives airs of guava and coconut. The palate has a tight debut with plenty of gras present – this is not really up and running yet. The length is sustained, and the wine is well wrapped together. It has a slight tannic side, is a big wine, beefy even, with depth and a power connection late on. Is 15.25°. “It reminds me of 2001, and will keep well,” A.Perret. Suited to big flavours – full dishes. Decant this. It is just OK with its power, is a masculine Condrieu. White raisin and vanilla combine on the aftertaste. 2020-22 May 2012

2009

1 year cask, 1942 Viognier **** bright, quite full yellow; baked, cooked white fruit aroma, also vanilla – this is broad, full. Muscular wine on the palate, has shoulders and reserves – it is solid but not oppressive. Runs finely to the finish, the aftertaste delivers chewy notes. 8 years. 1 year cask, 1985 Viognier *** bright, quite full robe; creamy, crème patisserie, pear aroma that sails along quite serenely, comes with a sprinkle of toast. The palate has an approachable white fruits flavour, gains a little grip and weight as it goes. There is some overripe crop in this. 6 years. Steel vat, the old Jurie des Camiers Viognier, part from the 1940s ****(*) green tints in the yellow robe; wide bouquet that comes with gusto, pear fruit airs, a persistent depth of richness. This is a mighty rich, full wine with ripples and layers of flavour. Ends on typical Viognier tannin. Is a dry wine, has fermented through, but is actually over 15.5°. “I raised this part of the final wine in steel because it was so rich that I feared it wouldn`t finish its sugars if left in oak,” A.Perret. 2017-19 July 2010

2008

pale robe; more mineral, tight bouquet than usual – “the vintage effect”, A.P., with pear and spice circulating. A little flan and butter appear on the start of the palate, then there is a close-knit, straight run to the line. Has reserves, is hidden now, so leave until spring 2011, or decant for now. A tight wine this year. “It needs food – it is too powerful for the aperitif,” A.Perret. A structured Chéry that will live to around 2016-18, and be right there in 2012. July 2010

2007

yellow robe, rich aspect. Buttery, white plum, honeyed airs with damp wool, late picked fruit. There is mineral attached, orange blossom. The palate gives steady gras – oily and beau richness with pear-apricot flavouring. It extends with texture and fat all in place. Apricot juice comes along on the finish, a “soft firmness”. This runs effortlessly. 2022-24 Oct 2016 Previously Dec 2008 ****(*) pear/pale yellow colour. Has a really wide bouquet – flan or custard at the front end, followed by a white pepper, more spiced clamp of realism – fruit near the stone of apricot or plum. The palate is also full and wide, with plenty of heart and breadth that increases as it goes. It has a red wine make-up late on, a solid nature. There is a little acidity towards the finish. The fat comes in a gourmet style, not gourmand, and this will be genuinely rich and full. From mid-2009. Bottled 1 week. 14.5°. 2015-16 Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 **** (2 casks tried) 1) **** elegant top note to the nose – has a soft underlay and good tight cohesion in the aroma. The palate has a genuine richness, with wide, but flowing sides: this is promising. Has more movement in it than the 2006. 2) this cask is still fermenting. Toasted, oak interior to the bouquet today. Rich and well-knit at the start, ends on a refined note. Is rather silken, with a pretty fullness. Definitely a good vintage. 7-9 years. Jan 2008

2006

formidable nose – broad and open and inviting, with pear and white peach in the background; notes of some potency hover on top: this bouquet is a real stormer. The palate is a mix of richness and grip – meaning there is a central spine of a near tannic nature though it. Flavour is of apricot and white fruit, with traces of oak that are not overdone – with dried white raisins here, too. Finishes roundly, with plenty late on. The alcohol – 15° - is at the limit, but can live on with its pretty correct acidity. To 2016 or so. Jan 2008

2005

gentle yellow robe. Refined, buttery nose with some tang in the mainly pear white fruits – this is a well-defined bouquet that is also smoky from the oak. The attack is dumb – has a low-key flan flavour, and a potentially smooth texture. It rolls along well, and the finish is well cut. I like its style, is a slow burn wine. Comes very much in the vintage manner – meaning it is more reserved than the opulent, glorious 2004 Chéry. Mineral, pear drop notes late on. More to come. 2012-13. 14°. Nov 2006

2004

This is a storming wine, one of the best Condrieus I have ever drunk. Mixes a beguiling set of aromas with a well-modelled core on the palate and the acidity is great. June 2006 - was a little closed, but I have drunk this in Denmark, outdoors at the races in England, anywhere will do, and I have indeed purchased it. Find what you can. Previously April 2006 ***** bouquet floats elegantly, is floral with a little spice, has a direct shape, gains earthiness with air. Tightly drawn palate, a bundled dried fruits flavour. The only real sign of richness is the buttery finale. Plenty of future. Has a baked apple, exotic fruits aftertaste, also toasting from the oak. Tasty wine, great, suave and persistent texture on the end. To 2014   April 2006 Previously **** elegant fat on bouquet, hint of oak, also mineral. Good broad start, buttery and rounded fruit and richness. Holds glycerine, with plenty of core. Restraint of the year adds elegance. Esp from late 2006. 2013-14

2003

white pepper, apricot/tangerine aroma with honey, is direct. Agreeable roundness, some grip and is punchy towards the finish. Prolonged dried fruits taste, good length. Very much a wine for food - sauced fish, chicken, veal. To 2011  March 2005 Previously (cask) **** quite suave, restrained, lime tart aroma. Tight palate - pineapple, toasted flavour. Good ensemble, sound elegance. Fruit skins and power here, younger Chéry vines helpful for freshness this year. Length sound. Note only half the crop this year, so all the wine was oaked

2002

spice, white fruit/orange zest bouquet. Mid-weight, quite firm wine, not especially fleshy. Rather tart finish, some pear there. Lacks the usual width, small scale. From 2006, and hope.

2001

warm, open, ripe nose, spiced apricot; quite fat texture, toasted end, flan dessert/apricot flavours. Touch of heat.

2000

pear/dried fruits, floral and toasted topping on bouquet; stylish, more restrained than usual on palate, pretty flavour, finishes elegantly. Nutty, touch of end heat. Good length. 2006-07

1999

full, elegant bouquet - pear/vanilla and good grip. Great combo of pear-flavoured fullness and final tightening, a tannic chew. Really compact wine, doing well after four years. To 2008-10.

1998

scented, oily, exotic/bergamot aroma; lush texture, fat wine, musky, smoky tang. Powerful, late cropping aspects.

1997

ripe, golden tinted robe that looks rich. Has a broad, exotic fruits nose – this mixes Riesling petrol with guava and spice. Ample wine – it was never going to be about finesse. The palate at first seems as if it is holding up, but not a lot more. It gives a banana, flan flavour, but at first the sides are drying, becoming taut. It is suited to lobster, rich seafoods, mushroom dishes, Roquefort cheese. The attack delivers tangerine zest, orange peel flavours, so there is evident life there. As it airs, it broadens, takes on depth, the flavour shifting to brioche, baked fruits. Refines and finishes more softly after 15 minutes, is at a viscous stage now. Day 2 and Day 3, it is still good, soft drinking. I'd love a magnum (non-existent) of this! 14°. 2013-15 May 2010 NOTE 1997 was a year of high summer heat, and so low acidity, the wines opulent and heady, with oily textures. I always rated this highly (4 stars). It was made at a time when André was fermenting at higher temperature than today – his cooling system was basic – meaning around 20°C (68°F). He was also using proportions of late picked harvest, but in 1997, he used that crop to make a dried grape wine called Vendange d'Automne. Hence this Chéry (it still had the Coteau attached to the name then) came from regularly ripe harvest, not the exaggerated bunches.