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The Wines

Syrah (2000) from Les Bruyères-sur-Verlieu, Chauramond (1960, 2000), with some 1982 Syrah from Mève, Chanson, slippery granite, quartz, destemmed, 3-4 days at 10-12°C, 3-week vinification, pumping overs, cap punchings, final maceration temperature of 30°C, aged 10% new, 90% 3-4-5 year 228 and 400-litre oak casks 12-14 months (25% 400-litre, 75% 228-litre oak casks), two bottlings, fined, unfiltered, 15,000 b

2018

1) (1982 Syrah, Mève, used 228-litre cask) **** dark red robe, black tints. There is a gourmand curve to the black fruits on the nose, airs of simmered blackberry and blackcurrant – it’s a good, calm opening. The palate bears fine black fruit, is joli, the fruit tasty, comes with pencil tannins, good late freshness. I like its straight delivery. There’s a good amount of depth and content, the tannins are fresh, and there’s good lift – it doesn’t show the vintage sun in extremis. 15 years 2) (used 228-litre cask, 2000 Syrah, some 1960, Chauramond) **** black with red tints; soft, stylish black cherry fruit on the nose, an aroma that persists. The palate extends purely and freshly, is also stylish, the cool blue fruit engages well – it ends on that coolness, a mineral-rock powder, floral-violet sign-off. Very good, job done here. It’s deeper on the palate than the previous cask. 17 years. 2034-37 Dec 2019  GB £70/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2017

red robe; reduction shows on a red-fruited nose, fruit gums, red cherry tart in play, is stubborn. The palate bears cool red fruits, is light, a bit skimpy. It finishes on strawberry fruit, a rather vegetal note, as if harvested a mite early. 13.5°. From mid-2020, decant it. 2025-26 Dec 2019

2016 ()

(5 year cask) bright, quite full red. Blackberry fruits lie at the heart of the nose, a dusting of mineral and damp earth. The palate skips along, but has attractive depth, a bonny roundness with violet notes late on. This is good and drinkable, has foundation, persists pretty well. It’s attractive. 13.3°. From late 2018. To 2024 July 2017

2015

dark red colour. The nose has a sturdy, sunny vintage depth, is led by blackcurrant, with blueberry. The palate has a dense coulis, very concentrated black fruits heart, real insistence in them, inner density, along with a full set of tannins that fit it and amplify it. The close is lip smacking, well sustained. Bottled April 2017. 10% whole bunch this year. From spring 2018. 2028-30 July 2017 Previously Apr 2016 **** 1) (4-year 400-litre cask) **** dark red robe. The nose is peppery, very typical, has airs of rich dark berries, is lively and shows menthol breeze. The palate starts crisply, presents a good, live run of dark fruit, chocolate, blackberry, a little late oak. Structured, serious. From 2019 12-13 years 2) (whole bunch ferment, 400-litre cask) ***(*) dark red. Has a capsicum, snappy air, licorice present. The palate has a firm debut, holds brambly black berry fruit, a good thread of tannin with some chunkiness. Good freshness, this has character. 14 years  OVERALL **** 2028-30 Apr 2016  GB/HK £160 12 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com

2014

(used 400-litre oak cask) sound red robe. The nose gives a blackberry, coulis, mulled berries aroma with an inner sweetness. The shape here is cosy, round; the fruit glistens a little, the flavour led by raspberries with a perfumed angle. It is sweet, easy to drink, the tannins quiet. There is a slight late tang and clarity. I am not surprised to learn that it has been chaptalised, to the extent of 1°, is 12.5°. 2020-21  Oct 2015

2013

bright red. Has a live red cherry, raspberry aroma, a sense of darkness and tar, flowers also. This gives a direct delivery of black fruit jam, herbs such as rosemary; it isn’t yet ensemble between nose and late palate. Has a gummy finish. For now there are pockets of gras and quite full juice. It closes very freshly. 12.5°. From mid-2017 2024-25 Oct 2015

2012 ()

perky red robe. The nose is elegant, bright and well on the go, raspberry and strawberry garden fruit tenderness. The palate is trim, holds well presented fruit, with serene light touch. It is high on charm and drinkability, is a w.o.w. wine. A nice little bit of softening has been done, and the close has a little extra depth. 12.5°. To 2020 Nov 2016 GB GB £140 12 b i/bond or £18.46 Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com Previously Nov 2013 *** (casks, bottling spring 2014) healthy red robe. Lively, dancing berry fruits, aromatic nose – the bouquet has “clack” and suggests drinkability, hedgerow and raspberry fruit, is very sympa. The palate is direct and peppery – off it goes; the mid-palate is light, the fruit green peppery as is the case up here in the north of St Joseph. The length is sound. It demands a steak-frites, beef steak and chips. It will be going well soon - from mid-2014. Fruit-led, w.o.w. wine. 14°. To 2018. £140 per 12 in bond, J&B in GB.  Nov 2013 Previously Oct 2012 **(*) to *** (2 weeks old, sugars finished, used 228-litre cask) bright purple, black tints. Elegant fruit aroma, peppery. The palate extends well, is nice and ripe, perfumed. Easy tannins here. Attractive wine. 12.5°. 9 years. (16 days old, inc 1980s Syrah, used 228-litre cask) good purple robe. Fat, rich air, also the palate – there is a good run of comfortable fruit. The tannins are mild. Will drink OK early. (11 days old, used 228-litre cask) dark, purple robe; spice, fruit jelly style air. Good flow on the palate – this has easy to appreciate fruit, light grain tannin, floral notes. Likely to be an easy wine, not a lot of complexity. 8 years life. Oct 2012 GB £140 12 b in bond Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com

2011 ()

a few casks: (used 228-litre cask) *** attractive dark robe; blackberry and blueberry fruit aroma, with iodine, has a pleasant, ripe, airborne style. On the palate, this has straightforward black fruit, with tar and licorice, a little grain and extra dust at the end. Its tannins are supple, and it is easy to drink soon. It is fleshy, textured. 8 years. (used 400-litre cask, 1982 Chanson Syrah) **** quite dark; smoky, bacon, prune air, black fruits. The granite comes through on the palate, gives it cut, a wee floral notion, also grip. Very terroir wine, old Serine here, has stylish length. Good structure; this is the STGT part of the wine, really good typicity. There are blackberry, cool notes late on. 11 years. (new 400-litre cask, 1999 Chauramond Syrah) ***(*) very dark; oily, “dark”, fleshy black fruit air. The palate steers a steady course, has blackberry and tang and smoke in it. The finale is clear, decisive. Good flesh, with soft but secure tannins. The balance is OK. 12 years. OVERALL ***(*) a wine that will drink well, will be approachable from late 2013. Versatile with different foods thanks to its supple texture. 2020-22  Oct 2012

2010 ()

bright, dark red; the nose opens on an air of game, with violet-raspberry mixed in it: it is more clear than gamey, but is worth decanting. This is a good country-style wine, not too polished up. The palate has an electric charge, a real bound forward of spiced fruit. There is slight texture of oiliness towards the finish. It offers genuine Syrah red fruits, is a beau vin, w.o.w. There is life in it – it is an “up”, fun wine that gives active fruit down to the aftertaste. Very easy to drink. Bottled end 2011. 13°. 2019-20 May 2012

2009 ()

(3 year oak cask) very full robe, ink spots in it. Chocolate, black cherry, full bouquet, rather intense blackberry alongside. The palate is good and wide, offers an abundant surge of black fruit, shows grip from its tannins late on. Full, but without heaviness. Easy to appreciate. To 2020 or so. “It is rich, well ripe, has firm tannins, needs time,” A.Perret. July 2010

2008

overt, white pepper-spice aroma, red fruit under that. Seasoned fruit flavour, with licorice and spice inside, enough gras richness to keep it going through to the finish. Rather clear wine, the quality of the fruit good, all things considered. The length is correct. Drinks well. Bright fruit, spiced exit to this. I think of pork and veal, white cheese with herbs to accompany it. “We were hit by early July and early September hail, and had to sort 3 times – in the vineyard, on the sorting table and at the destemmer,” A. Perret. 2015-16 July 2010 Previously Dec 2008 * 2 casks: cask 1 (new), sugars malo both completed: pepper, oak, minted nose, with violet in it. Mild fruit and length on the palate. 11.5° plus 1° chaptalised. Cask 2 (4 yr oak, 1960s Syrah) regular red colour; reductive, but spiced aroma with the roundness of mulled fruits and pepper. There is a clear tune to the palate black fruit, which has a floral companion. 7-8 years for this wine. Dec 2008

2007

3 casks tasted – this will charm thanks to its smooth, savoury fruit and good length. Blackberry fruit dominates. Could be a w.o.w. wine. 2015-17 Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 **(*) (3 casks tasted) 1) ** red-plus colour; toasted, cherry aroma, has a sympathique little ball at its centre. Easy fruit on the palate, with some late kick. Did its malo in cask. 2) *** more knit, closed but even aroma spread across the glass. Cassis fruit here that is easy going with some late roundness. Note esp stuffed full, but has good flow. 8-10 year wine. 3) **(*) 2000 Syrah vines, very young: sound red; black berry with some jam in it and a smidgin of violet. Brisk fruit and good energy on the palate – this has good terroir via its tannins and the form of the wine. Is from terraces that André planted at Verlieu – sanded granite. A structured wine. OVERALL *** Suggests a vintage that can be drunk with pleasure early, with enough length to run on past its very first flush of youth. 13° or so. Jan 2008

2006

(2 casks tried) 1) ** 400 litre cask: red berry and cherry aroma with a slight vegetal note. There is a bit of black jam in the aroma, black cherry, and the aroma is slightly stuck together and gummy, with oak late on – not convincing. 2) **(*) there is black berry in the aroma, with some bone in it, promises the future rather than today. Raspberry on the palate, shows comfortable fruit, is perhaps less live than the 2007. Correct length. OVERALL a wine to drink after a little ageing as it needs to sort itself. Life of 8-10 years. Jan 2008

2005 ()

(casks) full, bonny red robe; macerated berry fruit aroma, with good style – raspberries with some earthiness. The attack shows “teeth”; its tannins are evident. Is now raw and primary with good, live fruit. From 2008. “This can easily live for 7 to 8 years,” A.Perret. To be bottled March 2007. 2014-16 Nov 2006

2004 ()

(cask)

2003

meaty, near second phase of evolution nose – direct, not especially wide. “There is often tar in the 2003s, reflecting the over-ripeness,” A.Perret. The palate is also rather direct – shows berries with a smoky overlay. There are quite dense tannins within, and a smoky, slightly burnt finish. Tarry aftertaste. Can be drunk now. Needs careful food matching to absorb its assertive edges – rich foods, with some sweetness in them. 2012-14 Nov 2006 Previously (cask) *** compact black fruit, frilled aroma. Stewed black fruit, creamy texture. Ripe grape finale, with firm side to it - tannins appear. Solid wine. 2012-14

2002 ()

grilled, black cherry bouquet, mid-weight. Black fruit attack, then skips. Live texture, some fruit near end. Upright, drink from 2006, needs to settle.

2001 ()

tarry/truffly, violet aromas; clear-cut black fruit/pepper. Fresh, sinewy wine. Licorice end. Some sound richness within the tannins, has evolved consistently. 2011-14

2000 ()

touch austere, dark cooked fruit, not very big. Some bottle variation, can be warmer. Fruit is facile. Another version could repay leaving till 2004, drinking later. 2006-08

1999 ()

warm, peppered, smoky bacon nose. Cassis flavour, with tannic dryness mixed, tannins on top early. Air tightens it. Some depth here, should ease its grip with time. 2010-12.

1998

warm, berried fruit nose. Fair fruit, touch burnt, three-quarter weight wine. 2008-09

1996 ()

nice touch of firm fruit, hint of animal on nose; silky texture, nicely upright. Very good black fruits, quite firm tannins at end. Nice future. 2005-08