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The Wines

Viognier (oldest 1921, youngest 1988, many 1946-1956, av age 65 years) from 1.5 hectares on loose sanded granite & mica soils on Chéry at Condrieu, before 1990s used 228-litre oak cask fermented, raised 8-9 months, from early 1990s to 2004 steel vat fermented, used 228-litre oak cask raised 6 months, malo completed, fined, best vintages 1979, 1982, 1986, 1989, 3,000-3,500 b

2002

(vat) fair width of aroma, honey; medium-weight wine, some gras

2001

quiet, bonbon aroma; light fruit, plain pear flavour.

1990

potent bouquet, considerable depth. Started life with rather raw flavours, and not integrated with its young oak, leading to drift on the finish. Greater authority and a clearer extract may come by 1993

1989

this is a low acidity wine, but its balance is great, and is backed by a complex structure. One of the successes of the 1980s here.

1988 ()

lack of genuine richness, a bit hard. Rather tense construction, will time open it up? Not sure. Pressing could have been too hard on the thick skinned-crop after the dry conditions.

1987

good length, elegance, has the freshness of the vintage in a rather dainty manner. A good effort in a difficult vintage.

1986

good length and elegance, agreeable fullness. Along with Delas and Jean Pinchon, one of the leading wines of the year.

1985 ()

restrained bouquet, not really give the flourish of a young Condrieu. It was rather light on the palate, but gained depth over time, and was still showing well after five years.

1982 ()

streamlined fat, a cosy Rozay, quiet length. Summer and early September heat, so low acidity wines.

1980

aromatic wine thanks to the cool ripening conditions. There was enough content and acidity to allow it to live for around eight years.

1979

rich yellow, bountiful robe. The nose gives pear, richness, occasional fungal influences, moments of delicacy. It is very refined, has an oily inset, with a buttery presence. There are rays of sun in the bouquet, which is very true of Chéry, along with quince and pine nut. This deals a citrus-mandarin, pear flavour with incredible late freshness, acidity. It is very accurate for the vintage, is as clear as a bell on the finish. There is a very typical steel -thread of mineral – through it. Good length here, it is full of verve, and real good elegance also. It has a beautiful palate, grande finesse. After three hours: it is in great shape. There is a steady pear, pear in syrup, aroma on the nose. The level on this bottle was better than my last bottle about three years ago. It can tick tock over another few years. 2023-25 Nov 2016 Previously ****(*) rich and well-balanced, lovely fleshy depth, and multi-faceted bouquet, swirling aromas. The star wine of the vintage, with good acidity at its heart.