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The Wines

90-100% Marsanne (early 1980s), 0-10% Roussanne, from own vineyards at Peyraud, with Saint-Pierre de Boeuf, from 2007 until 2017 purchased crop in a regular partnership arrangement from Peyraud before owner sold his vines, fermented at 16-20°C, lees stirring during fermentation, raised 10-33% new, 67-90% 1-2-3-4 year old 228-litre oak casks (new oak up from 10% to 33% in late 2010s) 9 months, malo completed, filtered, first wine 2007, 3,300-5,000 b

2018 ()

fine yellow robe; exotic fruits, melon airs, mandarin notes and vanilla-oak feature on the nose. The palate is a supple do, apricot and white plum flavours on board – it has a gourmand, relaxed style, rather Southern, is fleshy before a touch of late grip. It has a vinous style. 14°. 2023-24 Dec 2019

2016

pale yellow, a flinty colour. Has a zesty, pear-fruited aroma, a note of aniseed, light apricot, roasted nuts. The palate shows a classic low temperature fermentation steeliness, is almost taut, very tight. It gives crisp drinking, a light note of gras within. It has a salted close, a bit lacking in fruit. It can do the aperitif, lacks real soul. 13°. To 2022 Apr 2018

2015

yellow robe, bright aspect; the nose gives toasted oak, a ginger snap in with cooked lemon-mandarin airs, a note of Bergamot. The palate is well founded around an apricot flavour with some strength of matter, a tannic implant, towards the finish. Red wine shape here, as is found in 2015 northern Rhône whites. The finish has a discreet freshness and a note of delicacy. This is interesting, as well as nourishing. Decanting an option. From spring 2017. 2023-34 Oct 2016

2014

yellow robe. The bouquet is full of beans, has an apricot juice, white peach aroma delivered in a smoky, oaked setting. The palate is authentic, a true St Jo from rocky soils. There is plenty of tang and also depth of content, with good grip on the extended finish. The flavour runs with some glow – this is certainly a 14° wine (tasted blind). Decanting a help. From spring 2016. 13°. 4,800 b. €16 export. 2022-23  Oct 2015 

2013

yellow robe. The nose gives mango, crabapple jelly aromas, very much that jelly sort of air rather than cool, fresh fruits. The exotic side of the nose is prevalent. The palate holds a soft fruit, also with exotic fruits on the menu here. It is rather over stylised from the cellar. It is supple, then takes on a note of burn, grip. Only just 3 stars – it doesn’t really have a cohesion. 13°. 2019-20  Jan 2015

2012

medium depth yellow; the nose reveals a tangerine, coconut milk aroma, has a light aniseed drift, good style. This has a tenacious, grippy style, comes with a low level of tannin. It hasn’t yet taken off, so decant it, and wait also until mid-2014. It shows some fluid gras richness late on, so will be OK. 13°. €9.25 ex cellars. To 2018.  Nov 2013

2011

pale yellow; broad and well filled bouquet, gives a citrus, tangy white jam fruit air, marmalade. Great elegance here. After a good spread of gras on the attack, the palate has agreeable strength of flavour, bears white fruits, and fine acidity helps its finish to move elegantly. Wine that is excellent for la table – grilled fish, say. Has character, is STGT wine. 13°. To 2019. €16 at the cellars.  Oct 2012

2010 ()

pale yellow, legs; very pure, refined Marsanne air of homey and almond – a graceful bouquet, with a very light note of flowers such as honeysuckle. The palate also offers honey, spiced white fruits, comes in a measured manner. Elegant and mild, agreeable wine whose length is sound: it has an airborne, not grounded, style and can serve for the aperitif. There is a tang of Marsanne at the end, a nicely tuned finale. 13.5°. To 2016  Oct 2012

2009

(casks) yellow robe; bouquet has the air of mild summer flowers, light honey wisps, along with some barley sugar that indicates the sudden ripeness, vanilla pod, high tone. Hazelnut, fine-tuned fruit on the front palate – just a little closed now. There is a decent sense of drive here, somewhat like a Crozes-Hermitage white, suited to the aperitif. Is long enough to suggest it can evolve to 2016. Finishes quietly. July 2010

2008 ()

pale yellow. Rather fat bouquet, still not out and about, the air of straw in it. Has a good, nutty, quite oily palate – offers a low throb gras richness. Has fine acidity, a delicate finish. Possible for the aperitif, but can expand and develop over time. Attractive, well balanced wine. 13.5°. To 2015 July 2010, Dec 2009

2007

pale yellow; elemental, greengage, fresh bouquet – a zesty do. The palate works more on its richness than the nose – it has an easy, fleshy nature, is round. The oak serves to smooth it, shows some late grip. Good aperitif wine. To 2011. Dec 2008