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The Wines

67% from Rozier, 33% from Le Plomb, both northern sector, 90-92% Syrah (2004-05-1959), 8-10% Viognier (mid-1990s from Rozier, Le Plomb), 85-100% destemmed (up to 15% whole bunch since 2019), varieties co-fermented, 3-4 week vinification, wild yeasts, pumping overs, then twice daily manual cap punchings, temperature up to 30°C, aged 50-80% new (down from 75% new until late 2010s), 20-50% 1-3 year 228-litre oak casks 12-16 months, unfined, filtered, first wine 2001, “we seek finesse with this”, up from 5,000 b to 20,000 b

2018 ()

quite a dark red; there is a soft fragrance on the nose, has an air of tayberry, loganberry – welcome to Scotland! It’s restrained, can emerge and become stylish. The palate bears dark prune-like fruit, is insistent on the second half. Fine grain tannins are in play, and oak prevalent towards the finish. It’s a little escapist, but floral, mild, gives earlier drinking than most. 13.5°. 8% Viognier, 15% whole bunch. Bottled one week ago. €40. From 2022. 2037-39 Dec 2019

2015

(cask) shiny, very dark robe. The nose is led by its oak, which is a portcullis in front of some tight cassis-blueberry fruit, the fruit very much in the second rank. The palate produces savoury, rich content and ripe tannins. There is integration to be done, but the prime elements are in place. The fruit is very well struck and clear. This has proper structure, authority, excellent width. From 2020. 2033-36 Oct 2016

2014 ()

(casks) dark robe. The nose suggests future elegance, has a for now muted expression of mulled, simmered raspberry fruit with a drift of soft flowers. The palate attacks well, with a tasty black berry fruit at its heart. This is open book wine in the making. 12.5°. 18,000 b. €17 export. From 2018. 2026-27  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

(casks) deep robe. Blackberry, roasted, nutty aroma with good depth, and the potential to blossom and vary; it is a little on the oak, so has a chocolate impact. The palate starts on cool, blueberry fruit with a tight line of tannin through it. The oak is strong. Northern sector tightness on display here: a palate of poise, with interesting length. From 2017. Can gain over time. 12.5°. 2027-28 Jan 2015

2012 ()

(assembled wine, 228-litre oak cask) dark colour. Inky fullness, low-key sweetness on the nose, an air of fluid black jam, some floral touches, spark and flint and a discreet oaking. The palate fruit is ripe, with a perfumed presence, rose-hip, pot pourri dried flowers, which lingers on the finish. The close is neatly done, has a fine pebble precision. Promising, but a wee bit Spartan in the soul department, its content after half way a shade mechanical. From late 2015. 2026-28  Nov 2013

2011

(assembled wine, 228-litre oak cask) bright, quite full red robe. Loose, agreeable dark fruit such as blackberry – an airborne aroma that is round and easy to get into. The palate is softly scented, possesses mild, tasty tannins, is bonny. Good link between nose and palate. A good tooting Côte-Rôtie, silken and easy, also fresh. A medium-term, 10 year wine. Has a scented, raspberry aftertaste. From 2014. 2022-24 Oct 2012

2010

quite a dark red. Tar, mocha, oak airs lie ahead of crisp black fruit, licorice on the bouquet; a sense of floral violet and rose hovers. The palate is on its oak – the depth is fair on content, but it is young and rather stiff. The attack is loose-limbed, and this wine reflects the cellar more than the vineyard now. The aftertaste brings in black berries, plum. It's not yet a furnished wine, nor is it high on ambition. from 2014. 13°. 2025-27  Oct 2012

2007

sound red colour; smoky, clean aroma with some “dark” notes from the oak. The start of the palate is also oaked; inside lies gentle fruit that is direct in nature given its oak push. It needs to integrate – drink from mid-2010. The fruit is fair, but not very deep. OK length – but the structure is a touch fragile here. 2022-24 Dec 2008

2004

rather reduced, stewed and gummy bouquet with some crème de cassis, raspberry, holds up OK, has Viognier flowers lurking. Angular start, then some mid-late palate gras. It's still finding its way. The finish is wholesome - this can assemble itself. It has a nice raspberry aftertaste, but must lose its reduction smell. Double decant it. From 2008. 2019-21 April 2006

2003 ()

(cask) dark aromas, some rose hip, typicité present, with more to come. Jam style, but round and quite savoury palate. Open, some elegance, charm from the Viognier. Tannins are ripe. It's on reduction at present. 2006 on. 2019-22

2002

tender floral/black fruit/leather aroma. Clear-cut light fruit on palate, not that sustained. Light tannins. Some length. Drink 2005-08, date-wise, be precise with it.

2001

expressive red fruit aroma, some Viognier warmth; refined structure, will be tasty. Very pure, bravo for first wine! Good balance, tannins work in well at the end. 2020-22