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The Wines

Viognier (1999-2008) from granite soils on Côte Bonnette at Condrieu, 2 day steel vat cool decantation at 10°C, fermented 3-5 year 228-litre oak casks at 17°-18°C, raised 10 months, malo completed, fined, filtered, "drink with seafood, foie gras, fine charcuterie", first wine 2009, organic wine, 1,600-2,500 b

2018

firm yellow robe; the bouquet is reserved, lying in wait, gives a low-key air of glazed fruits, cooked lemon, apricot, has depth and mystery. The palate is wide, robust, charged with ample matter, centres on cooked pear, a note of apricot, and vanilla pod from the oak. It’s notably substantial on the second half, has a red wine physique. It’s a Condrieu of authority, better with some age under its belt than young, say at five to six years’ old. From mid-2021, decanting essential. 14°. 2,000 b. €42. 2029-31 Nov 2019

2017 ()

pretty deep, shiny yellow colour; the nose shows varnish from its oak, comes with freedom in its elderberry fruit, cooked lime, has a note of camomile tea. The attack is strong, literally, concentrated on pear in syrup, ripe peach fruit with white raisin and assertive tang of ginger and more oaking towards the finish. It’s not a full ensemble, carries diverse elements, goes hither and thither. The aftertaste is lip smacking, rather ample. 15°. 2024-25 Dec 2018

2016

yellow, flint, a few green tints in the robe. This has a good, sumptuous bouquet, lots of enjoyable breadth and a full offer of pear fruit with good tang, citrus-orange/mandarin cut. There’s an implicit oiliness, a note of aniseed. The palate is expressive, well filled with soft and pliant richness, a real good ball of it. This has genuine Condrieu character, its flavour centred on white strawberry, apricot, light nuttiness. It ends on a good sliver of saltiness – that invites another sip. There is a little tannic depth on the aftertaste, a note of greengage plum. 13.5°. 2,500 b. €39 at the cellars. To 2022 Mar 2018

2015

yellow robe with a sheen. The nose gives a classic, refined Condrieu aroma led by mineral influences, pear and pear skin, toasting, liquid honey present. The palate sits tightly together, has a lucid stretch of spiced white fruits, with a gain in squeezy, supple gras before the close. The nose is stylish, the palate similar. It drinks more neatly than most 2015s. 14°. 1,600 b. €24 export. To 2019 Oct 2016