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The Wines

mainly from Ste-Agathe, Viognier av 40 yrs, plus La Caille, fermented, raised 2-4 year oak casks and large oak barrels 7-8 months, malo usually done, 20,000 b

2018 ()

yellow colour; the bouquet comes forward well and freely, shows apricot, peach airs, has sunny depth that isn’t overdone. The palate is buttery, initially floral, filled with creamy, textured content, moves into more tangy, grippy moments, a white raisin intensity on the finish. There is a slight bitter note on the aftertaste. Best drunk with food, white meats, clam spaghetti, for example. It’s regular Condrieu with some notes of elegance. 14°. 2024-25 Dec 2019

2017 ()

yellow robe; the nose has a buttery aspect, with wax, brioche bread, shows some sunshine intensity. It takes a grounded more than airborne route. The palate is stylish, carries an enjoyable neat ball of richness, white fruits, dried apricot, present, shows a little deft oak towards the finish. It finishes with a near savoury moment, more fat than direct. It can evolve as well, the second half capable of waking up further. Decanting an idea. 13.5°. 2025-26 Dec 2019

2016 ()

yellow robe. Has a measured, ripe pear aroma, a calm presence, pear skin, a hint of fennel, aniseed. It’s not fully out post bottling four weeks ago, but is capable of attractive variety. The palate runs with elegant gras, has early thickness, but good late freedom and a dainty freshness. This is a trim Condrieu with freshness central to it, in the 2016 style. It has a very tasty close, fine juice there. 13°. 2021-22 July 2017

2015

pale yellow. The nose gives soft floral airs, apricot, white strawberry, fresh sea shore: it is tender, very gentle, appealing. The palate is elegant, wiry. There are salty notes on the debut, with crystalline properties, clean as a whistle. This is a series of interlocking compartments. There is fresh pear at its heart. It is nearly spare in style. 13.5°. Bottled July 2016. 2025-26 Oct 2016

2014 ()

has a glinting yellow robe. There is a pear, apricot, candy aroma, is broad and buttery, banana-like. The palate gives a flavour of cooked citrus fruits, lime-orange marmalade with a note of spice towards the finish. This juggles muskiness with freshness; the palate comes across more freshly than the nose. It doesn’t quite light the imagination, is sound, not more. Decanting may help. It tones down a bit on the finish, gives honey on the aftertaste. 13.5°. 2022-23  Dec 2015

2013 ()

½ bottle at Beau Rivage Restaurant, Condrieu: this is dentelle max wine – it is like eating licorice, has a classic pear, pear skin aroma leading the nose, a note of apricot behind. The palate is beautifully precise, and it is a wine of great elegance and clarity, with the finish more deep and southern  - a great combination. It drinks fresh as a daisy with a lobster based sauce with the Quenelle de Brochet (pike), garnished with baby turnips, young mange tout, baby carrots - it delivers real good tension and grip. 2023-24 Apr 2015 Previously Feb 2015 ****(*) pale yellow. The nose is bright, immediate, offers a winning crisp pear aroma, with a nice ball of white fruit jam and a nudge of smoky oak. The palate has great breeze and clarity, the attack wonderfully uplifted. The mid palate is complete, and the wine ends in airborne fashion. This is really drinkable, a real pleasure, is w.o.w. wine composed of precise details. There is bonny crunch in it, and the fruit on the finish is fine. It is balanced, has great style, is a winner. 13.5°. 2023-24  GB £408/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Feb 2015

2012

mild yellow colour. Buttery, careful, precise bouquet, a little air of white plum, but above all this is busy developing, and not very open now. Brioche, ginger and infused tea aromas join in. The palate is stylish, delivers that on its texture. Very smooth, even stealthy appeal is offered. Its fruit is still hiding inside, resembles peach, pear. Appealing acidity runs through it, keeping it fresh all the way. Its heart beats with a restrained fullness. It is elegant above all. A touch of carbonic gas features. Good length, firm close to it. Decant this. From mid-late 2014. 13.5°. 2022-24  Nov 2013

2011 ()

pale yellow. This has a pretty, wide bouquet that offers lightly spiced pear, pear skin and a comfortable depth. There is a combination of spice and dust, with the pear of the Viognier prominent. It has a fresh citrus-orange tang. There is an alert spot of freshness on the attack, one that continues with a steady line of cut, surrounded by easy gras fat. Overall it is a direct, clean-cut Condrieu. The close is quietly firm, very orderly, the aftertaste resembling tangerine, with a squeezy little plumpness. A stylish, understated wine, all well collected in an appealing harmony. “Deft” is the word. Good late grip and steel in this. Day 4: fine, persistent, very pure and clear, a lovely drink, well above average. 13.5°. 2019-20  March 2013

2010 ()

pale flint-yellow, tinted pear colour; pear-lime, direct aroma with extra stuffing in it from a note of brioche, also infusion of tea such as verveine or tilleul (verbena, linden). This has a bonny free air. The palate is still settling, based on mineral cut, with good grain; has a well-shaped body, fine acidity, spine that keeps it straight and sustained. It ends clearly and is very clean-cut. 2020-22 March 2012 Previously July 2011 **** good shine in the mild yellow colour; candy air, pear in pear tart aroma, an implication of straw, butter also – the nose grips, shows 2010 tightness, much in contrast to 2009. The palate is suavely textured, is smooth all the way, lengthens really well, is very consecutive along the palate. The flavour holds pear, apricot skin also. It grips via light tannin on the finish, is deft and has a nice clear, ripe lime tang on the aftertaste. Best with food – Asiatic cuisine – bring it on. From autumn 2011. 13.5°. 2018-20 July 2011

2009 ()

bright yellow; broad, engaging nose – mingles pear-toast, peach jam, the pear dominating, is clear. Good sequence from the nose to the palate. Has balance from its strength of aromas, and a red wine shape – it builds to a firm, full end, has a solid sign-off. Tightly structured, a serious wine, very good. Excellent with chicken in lemon and rosemary preparation, and with foe gras and figs. Also good with curry and coconut milk – Indian, Malay style dishes. 13.5°. 2019-20 June 2011 Previously Nov 2010 ***(*) full yellow colour; beeswax notes, fine pear aroma, with mineral airs to alleviate it. Sturdy start to the palate, which is filled and solid all through. It handles the finish with some finesse, but there is then a late kick of power. A thorough wine – I find the nose more charming than the palate, but on the aftertaste there are fine notes of licorice, which encourage a more elegant sign-off in the future. To 2017. Nov 2010

2008 ()

very pale, pear skin colour; the nose is fresh, out come candy and cooked pear, vanilla pod, apricot – an attractive delicacy. The palate is also freshly styled – right away – then it gathers a little weight as it goes, and amplifies, ending with phenolic, firm moment. This is very drinkable, leans towards the aperitif, but there is also enough quite late gras for it to go with food. Dried fruits taste on the aftertaste. 2019-20 Nov 2009 “Young green asparagus, freshwater fish would be good with this, it has a salinity that I like,” Paul Amsellem. “Steamed scallops,” Christine Vernay.

2007 ()

pale yellow; agreeable, forward, live pear, greengage and classic acacia aroma with spice in it – a bonny mix of ripeness and freshness, baked pear and wax. The palate is good now – holds a soft, textured pear and apricot flavour, and is very easy to drink. It ends on a little firm note, similar to the fruit from near the stone. There is a tickle of late tannin in the form of that minor firmness. More delicate than many Condrieus of current times. Aperitif great, or fine foods. 13.5°. 2012. Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 *** (large barrel) mild yellow colour; has an agile aroma, bright white fruits, a little mandarin here: is beau and quite stylish. The fruit is live and there is harmony after the attack. Somewhat in the vein of 2004, being round and supple towards the finish. Accessible, balanced wine. 14° - less than 2006 with its virtual 15° reading. “It is almost like Poire William on the palate,” Christine Vernay. To 2013, but lovely on the up, as a young wine. Jan 2008

2006 ()

butter aroma with a little wax, stone fruit, peach and some citrus. There is a stylishly closed, mineral tone to the palate – gets a little closed up late on. Has a generally clear ending. The fruit has a mid-weight intensity, and the wine drinks well solo, as it is based on finesse. May soften a little more around late 2008. 14°. To 2013. Jan 2008

2005 ()

quite a yellow colour; the aromas reflect baked fruit tart, brioche bread, lime, pear dried fruits, mandarin-bergamot which brings a note of freshness. The palate is on Pause: twixt youth and maturity. It runs on firmly, steadily, as per the vintage style. Spice lies inherently in it, before a duo of honey, then vanilla towards the finish. Good, pretty length. There is a variety of flavours building up here. To 2013. Dec 2008

2004

mineral tinted, elegant nose, mix of iodine tang, apricot, subtle breadth, bonbon and banana - yep, the 04 variety is here. Very clean, rounded wine, then tightens, becomes reserved, dry-toned. Structure suggests it can keep and develop, more here by mid-2007. Has some richness, taste a little varnishy at present. 2012-14 April 2006 Previously Dec 2005 *** buttery, elegant and stylish nose, a little peach. Expressive, refined wine. Good length, calm and beau. Suave texture on finish. Light apricot, honey, fennel finale. 2013

2003 ()

(cask) big scale bouquet - dried pear fruit skins, salted, beachcomber aormas too. Firm fringe around compact richness. Re-emerges at end. Solid finish. Plenty here, can live, is not heavy. 2012-14

2002 ()

creamy, light honeysuckle bouquet, has lost its mineral side. Dried fruit attack, mid-weight, some poise, narrows a little. Some final chewy friskiness. From 2005 to let acidity settle. 2010-11 Previously (cask) **(*) steely, mineral, touch oak nose; reserved, medium weight, oak tightens the finish. Dried fruits finale, a good sign. From 2004 2011-12

2001

nicely sappy, pear/spice nose; instant warm flesh - open and running. Some end nut, final heat. Has a live, fresh side. Firm texture overall. Just a fair weight here.

2000

peardrop, bonbon, apricot aromas - sleek, rounded. Very stylish palate, gentle warmth, suave flavour. A little short.