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The Wines

from 1940-1944 Syrah (Petite Serine, all massale selection) on Boissey plus some 1970 Syrah on Les Vessettes, both at Chavanay, destemmed, foot crushed, 3 week vinification in new 225-litre oak casks at 26-27°C, pumping overs, 1-2 manual cap punchings, aged 30-35% new, 65-70% 1-2-3 year oak 24 months, (was 18 months until 2004), unfined, filtered, first wine 2001, 1,500 b

2015

dark red; the bouquet has a calm, potentially stylish bearing, shows little pockets of cassis fruit with oak crispness, black coffee, cafezinho do Brasil. The palate combines flowing dark berry fruits with a little fibre, tension. It’s on a high wire of freshness, and needs three years more for the oak to infuse. It’s a rather pared back 2015, ends on the chocolate of the oak for now. Decant it. 13°. From 2022. 2036-38 Dec 2019

2014

fine red robe. The bouquet shows reduction, with a neat line of red berry, oak vanilla within. It has an earthiness, a sultry notion or two, a sense of roses. There is a cool fruit debut with overt cool vintage spicing and grainy cut. This is rather spinal wine, holds lithe content, pure fruit, then late toffee from oak. It has ways to go, so wait for fusion and breathing out by it. It is a little withdrawn, hard to pin down by description. 12.5°. Bottled Dec 2016. 2026-27 July 2017

2013 ()

quite a dark red robe. A clear, nicely airborne aroma is led by blackberry, blueberry, has smoky qualities and cool, near menthol airs. It sets up the palate well. Thepalate bears lucid, gliding fruit with oak-toffee late moments. The fruit is laced with light spicing. A slightly safe game has been played here: it could have a bit more thunder in it. It Has a salted, clear sing-off. Serene and pretty elegant, if slightly skimming wine. Allow it time to amplify a touch, as fine late juice comes through. 12.5°. From mid-2016. 2021-22  Dec 2015

2012

red robe, with purple present. A smoky, rock tang aroma strides out from the bouquet, an appealing sweet ball of red fruit behind. This is superior St Jo, bears intricate red stone fruit with a tar, mineral strike. This is a child of rocks rather than soils – it is clear, and possesses a lithe  body of content. Has a pumice stone, strongly mineral close. Droplets of red fruit issue from rock fissures here. Oak shows on the aftertaste. Good truth here. 12.5°. From spring 2017. 2026-28  Apr 2015

2011 ()

red robe; the nose is starting to soften and round, leads on a graceful note of blackberry that has a sweet, jelly-like quality. The attack carries a fluid line of berry fruit, with still nuggety tannins wrapped around it. The finish is smoky, tarry, tangy. I would leave this until mid-2016 – it is straddling two phases now. The aftertaste is peppery, marked by white pepper. 12.5°. 2025-26  Apr 2015

2010 ()

attractive red colour. Reserved, but potentially full nose, a cosy depth of jam fruit such as raspberry. It is more obscure than open. A wee baked note is the clue to its ripeness. The palate is tightening, its sides bear gummy fruit, and it isn’t yet fully ensemble. Its red fruit lengthens soundly. It isn’t easy to capture in a phrase, needs more than 2 years more. It finishes on a graphite, sweet red fruit, mocha trio. Potential tomorrow rather than today’s showing here. From 2016. 13°. 2025-27  Nov 2013

2009

healthy dark red colour. There is an elegant drift of blackberry fruit across the nose, oily, even nearly inky airs, is full of sun, lots of simmered mulberry. The palate connects very well to the nose – it is nicely copious, fills the palate well, rolls with suave, squeezy fruit, extends completely. Good, is doing well now, and is easy to appreciate – there is good fat here. 12.5°. 2022-24  Nov 2013

2008

jolly red robe, nicely bright. Red cherry is the fruit most evident on the nose, has a licorice-grain and dusty side connection. The palate is fresh in style, but the middle is temporarily fat, so it leaves a fairly full impression. The attack bears live red fruits. The length is fresh, notably direct. Has a licorice aftertaste, needs 18 months to cohese and come together, allowing the gras and stiffness to merge. Unfussy, quite complete that can develop its run of fruit. From 2013. Time will benefit it. 12.5°. 2020-21 July 2011

2007

can move to ***(*) with time. Quite dark red; smoky, rather suave black fruits, a touch reductive, certainly has a compact nature, is round but not showy. The palate black fruit is flecked with tannin and oak, holds pretty clear fruit within, some violet grace in it. Juice emerges on the end. It is not a really juicy wine, is cautious. Sound length, if a little dry and tucked up. From late 2011. Esp drink between 2013-16. To 2019-20. Bottled Dec 2009. Nov 2010

2006 ()

attractive robe – full red with blue tints in it. Has a wide, ripe aroma: this makes a more masculine statement than the Côte-Rôties from this domaine – it is solid and out there, and for now is knit together. There are agile red fruits on the attack with a line of energy through it, and good, typical granite cut. It ends on floral notes. An STGT wine that brings terroir into the glass. A very good Saint-Joseph of authentic appeal, with its oak finely judged. 12.5°, not demanding. From 2011. 2020-21 Nov 2009 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) (new cask) the black fruit in the aroma has a safe depth and good core to it. The palate is rich, and gets going well: extends and shows richness late on. Not a very big wine, but has good promise and is well put together. (used cask) also ***(*) sound, quite dark robe. Black fruit that is chiselled with pepper in the bouquet. Also bears an easy richness on the start, with a quiet sweep of black fruit, and a nice little plump, tender nature until some late tannin comes along. Fresh enough on the finish. Has good juice. Is not big, but is on the button. To 2019-20 Jan 2008

2003

brewed black fruit aroma, some toasting, pepper. Fruit gum, dense Syrah black fruits, is full with an elegant theme. Leathery finale with some tannin pushing through, is a bit austere now, and tasted on a low pressure, rain day that i find upsets the 2003s quite easily. Esp 2007 on. 2016-18 Dec 2005

2002

scented floral/cooked fruit aroma, Pinot aspects. Fruit gums flavour, closed up, length OK. Some persistence, and end oak. 2010-12

2001

floral/black fruits nose; oak, suave black fruit start, elegant/oily. Some confit, oaked tannins. Esp 2005-06. 2011-13