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The Wines

Viognier from La Caille, Ste Agathe, fermented, raised 2-4 year oak casks and large oak barrels 7-8 months, malo usually done

1990

full yellow robe, apricot and gold tints, long legs down the glass. Pear in syrup, a good fat aroma, the south in the glass speaks here. There are classic notes of damp wool, a little honey and sizzled butter, very typical of mature Condrieu, in a good state now. The palate offers charming, prolonged richness, the warmth of the vintage providing an overt, musky grapiness, with white raisin and a quince paté, vanilla-toast, yes oak, effect on the finish. This would be beautiful with turbot, halibut. Its grapiness also sets it up for truffle dishes and ris de veau (sweetbreads), Vieille France cuisine. It moves on its fat above all. 13.5°. 2026-28  Apr 2015

1982 ()

the colour has held well, is very pale straw, yellows that are firm. The bouquet is solid, ripe aromas maturing; it has lost its pear skin zest, is now more on bonbon sweets, and a bit less floral. The holds gras richness, is very rounded, a little flat; the length is reasonable, but just lacks a little zip, as expected with a high degree, low acidity vintage (when the wine reaches six years’ old). It’s not on the way out, though, is just a little low-key. Drink now for best results (it was better a couple of years ago), since it’s not likely to improve. 15 Feb 1988, Putney, London