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The Wines

Viognier from 0.8 ha on loess, granite, some clay, white soils on Côte Châtillon at Condrieu (1997), decanted at 12°C for 12-24 hours, fermented, raised 30% new, 30% 1-year, 30% 2-year, 10% 3-year 300-litre oak casks 10-11 months (until late 2000s was 228-litre casks), malo 70-100% completed, filtered, 3-3,200 b

2017

fine yellow robe; the nose is reserved, but shows promise, has a steady depth, gives hints of pear, white plum. The palate is well flavoured, leads on mandarin orange with white peach; those citrus touches appear along the palate. There’s style in its gras, it lengthens steadily and has structure, good and thorough length, the gras sturdy on the finish. This is a proper, grounded table wine, up to handling its degree, and also up to Vieille France, sauce-based cuisine. There is a honey-toffee end from the oak. “It gives spices as it goes,” Jean-Claude Mouton. 15°. Bottled late June 2018. 2026-27 Dec 2018

2015

yellow robe. Pear and spice combine on the nose, with a note of vanilla from its oak. It’s weighty but has some freedom. The palate rolls out an assured run of white fruits, apricot and Mirabelle plum, glazed in style. It builds strength as it goes, ends firmly and well. Genuine and thorough, is a typical 2015, but with greater lift and clarity than many. 2024-25 Oct 2016

2014 ()

yellow robe with low-key gold tints. The bouquet spreads broadly, has mass, and a cooked peach, ginger tang mixture. The palate is smooth, pretty full, works on a round wheel of cooked citrus, lime style flavours with some late spicing. Vanilla-toast from its oak shows on the aftertaste. It has the depth for Vieille France, sauced dishes. 15°. €20.90 export. To 2021  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

yellow colour, legs visible. This has a classic pear, pear skin Condrieu aroma, along with peach, a note of spice: it is an interesting bouquet. The palate surges out richly, surprisingly so, given the orderly nature of the nose. It has body, a lively depth, and ends with cut, a strike of tannin, white tobacco. Foods required for it. The aftertaste is on pineapple, aniseed. Its oak is fusing. It is a bit of a Wild Child, but is genuine. 14°. 3,000 b. €20.90 at the cellars. 2022-23  GB £288/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Jan 2015

2012 ()

mild yellow; beeswax, oily air with lime, nectarine -  the nose is a good mix of fresh notes and secure depth that includes caramel and oak. The palate links well and closely to the nose, a veritable sequel. It provides ample, flowing gras richness, is seasoned by oak, has an aniseed snap on the finish. Good, is right on the button as a properly full, clear-cut Condrieu. Deserves fine table – lobster, turbot, foie gras. There are flint, mineral late notes in with the oak. From late 2014 for reduced oak. 14°. 2021-22  Nov 2013

2011 ()

pale yellow; honeyed softness in the nose, its airs of vanilla and also coconut are appealing. Cooked pear is the principal fruit here. The palate has a sympa level of richness, a textured, quite fat opening. The flavour is led by pear once more, with vanilla due to its oaking, which is prominent on the finish, also showing drifts of verbena tea, aniseed. It closes firm and compact, has decent length, best with food and decanting. Less oak from mid-2013. 14°. To 2019.  Nov 2012

2009 ()

yellow robe, green tints. Prominent bouquet – has fresh virtues, with pear, cooked fruit and citronelle behind. The palate delivers live fruit, runs with a fine tune of tannin through it, offers vanilla-oak touches on the finish. The oak will be less apart from 2011 – for now it is a bit over the top on the end. Has a meaty, full inside to it. 15°. 2017-18 July 2010

2007

quite a full yellow colour; has a soft aroma, led by flan and banana, with vanilla and exotic spice – there is interesting variety and breadth, is a genuine bouquet. Nice richness starts the palate, straight away – it comes out with dried fruits, honey, has a poised style. Ends with sound grip and control. Is very textured in the complete Condrieu way. Good now, and the length is pleasing, too. 14.5°. 2012. Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) Cask 1, 3 year oak, malo not yet done: reserved, reductive nose with some oaking evident. Well-set content in the palate, with a nice weave in it – beau vin, good length. Is refined, with some power also, has good grip. Quite structured, especially late on, a wine that can live. Cask 2, 1 year oak, malo done: reserved bouquet – traces of lemon, citrus. Very orderly palate with good sides and an elegant, assured heart. Cask 3, new oak: wide nose with sound depth. Richly textured start to the palate, with some richness through it, good length. This is promising between the three casks.

2006

white fruit, with a candy-pineapple mix on the nose with some honey and also some oak toasting. Decanting it would lessen the oak. The bouquet is broad, has dimension. This is a full, thorough wine, there is plenty here and it has good core and heart. It ends on an agreeable, slightly tight note, showing fruit near the stone and also some power – it is towards 15° - but that does not intrude. Good, wide, beau and the length is sustained. Has 4.6 gm of residual sugar this year – “it just happened that way,” J-C M. To 2013. Jan 2008

2005 ()

yellow tints in robe; buttery, rather crème brûlée aroma, with melted butter above all – full and broad. Flan flavour in a quite crisp start, has a rich toned texture, but then dips in the mid-palate. Ends with a mineral, crisp spurt then a buttery aftertaste. Nice, decisive finale. Also has sound local feel. Good with food such as veal or chicken. 14°. 2009-10 Nov 2006

2003 ()

firm bouquet, solid ripeness, with oak, has some life in it. Ripened pear fruit taste. Broad wine, is channeled by its oak. So-called exotic fruits around the finish, mixed in with oak. Rich matter at core, but there's quite enough oak for me, thank you.

2002 ()

fair early richness on palate, some pear/nut. Fair aroma.

2001

supple, apricot/exotic fruit nose; nice, broad attack, quite fat overall. More fruit if new oak cut back a little.