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The Wines

Viognier (25% 1960s, 25% 1992, 50% 2002-08) from 2.2 ha on granite soils on Côte Bonnette at Condrieu, fermented 50% steel vat, 20% new, 30% 1-2 year 300-litre oak casks, wild yeasts, raised 9 months (until early 2010s was 20% vat fermented/raised, until mid-2000s was 50% vat, but more lees stirring), malo completed, filtered, 8,000-11,000 b

2017 ()

pale yellow colour; the bouquet is clear but dense within, offers peach stone, acacia flowers, grape essence. The palate has a floral, buttery nature, holds steady gras, runs well with some muscle, nerve, grips on the close, giving apricot, cooked lemon there, honey. This is a solid quality table wine, one with detail and stealthy foundation. 14°. Bottled late June 2018. 2024-25 Dec 2018

2015 ()

sturdy yellow colour, a full robe. The nose is imposing, rounded, centres on banana flambé, brioche airs, cooked pear in the classic Condrieu manner. The palate bears a ginger-spice trail with its cooked apple, white raisin combination, a near note of brandy cake here, showing a high octane aspect to the wine. It isn’t easy to drink too much of this, and it requires careful pairing, is suited to veal dishes, Osso Bucco, filet mignon of pork. 14.5°. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2014

quite a full yellow robe. The bouquet is round and pretty full, offers white fruits, nectarine and tangerine, has a buttery outlook as well. The palate’s texture is coated, and it also follows a buttery trail, picking up a little freshness. This runs consecutively, the finish round and still smooth. It seems to be a low acidity wine. 14°. 10,000 b. €17 export. To 2017  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

dark yellow. The bouquet is reserved, presents a fat front, a glazed lime fruit air, peach also, near white peach in its ripeness. The palate is tight-knit, with oak and tannin effects, coupled with a stewed white fruit flavour. It gives a tangy, orange marmalade aftertaste. Decant this. It is a solid, firm Condrieu, suited to foods with sauces, white meats. 14°. Only 8,000 b this year. €17.50 at cellars, VALUE. 2020-21 GB £240/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com Jan 2015

2012 ()

fair yellow; curved, greengage plum, vanilla and lime aroma – a nose that offers attractive simplicity, and is also pretty clear. This is a likeable aperitif, a lighter style of Condrieu. Its fresh start is followed by a gain in richness, a peach and honey flavour. Honest, not sleekened up, and it ends with a firm roundness – has local feel in that sense. Spaghetti with clams, cheese, trout good with this as well as solo drinking, and that would be the better option as time passes. 13.8°. To 2019  Nov 2013

2009 ()

bright, pale yellow. Good mineral crispness on the front nose, baked fruits depth in support. The palate has a heart of Condrieu minerality, with good richness and a consistent run of white fruit, a tangy flavour. From 2011. 14°, less high than the Châtillon, and finer wine. To 2016. July 2010

2007 ()

Cask 1, 4 year oak, malo done: nice, mild nose that conveys pear, white fruit jam. The palate starts richly (its sugars are finished) and there is a good early strike of gras. Cask 2, 2 year oak, malo done: pretty and fragrant aroma, with quiet authority. The palate also has a rich start, which holds up well. The length is good. Nicely full and aromatic wine, in the vein of the 2004s. Jan 2008

2006

quite pale; there is a little mineral, clear expression in the nose – has a certain steel and is agreeable, with white fruits jam, pear and a supple nature. The palate bears pretty, soft fruit, led by apricot and a little nut; has some late grip. This is bonny, regular wine that becomes tender towards the finish, though is not that profound late on. Very correct overall. 14°. Has 2.5 gm of residual sugar this year. 2011. Jan 2008

2005

yellow, greengage robe. Buttery but also lime, tangy, pear skin aromas – direct and quite clear. Measured palate that is a little hidden now. There is good core and an elegant wrapping. Nutty, pear core end. Its richness is well achieved, with no excess, is refined and structured to evolve. Good flow, comes in a reserved style, is a pretty wine. 13.5°. Esp from mid-2007. To 2011. Nov 2006

2003

mineral, spice aromas. Clear flavour on palate, white fruits, flan, rounded and a light oak prop at the finish. Sound, full wine, well worked. Good grip. A little burn on aftertaste. More mineral than their Châtillon.

2001

open pear nose; firm palate, needs more flesh, softness