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The Wines

100% Marsanne (2005-07 included 15-20% Roussanne) from 80% Chavanay (late 1980s, own crop), 20% Malleval (1990, purchased crop), decanted at 8-10°C, fermented at 13-18°C, raised 20-25% new, 75-80% 1-5 year 228-litre oak casks 9 months, then 1 month vat, 7,200 b

2017

yellow robe; salty, mineral clarity with greengage plum, nuts assemble on the nose, which has Marsanne tang, close to ginger, shows a touch of oak, has snap. The palate is nicely medium weight, holds some stylish gras, continues free and clear into a grippy finish. This can move on well over time. 14°. 2027-28 GB £195 per 12 b i/bond H2Vin quintessentially@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 073 6655 Nov 2018

2015 ()

full yellow robe. The nose curves with ripeness, isn’t especially open and easy to define for now. There is a bulky, close-knit aroma of brioche, with a note of orange blossom that brings a little welcome delicacy. The palate is broad, fuelled by rich, fat matter, has a coated texture, and needs decanting, drinking with white meats, strong fish flavours. It’s a big scale white St Jo with definite character, one that achieves freshness as it closes. 14°. 2024-26  Oct 2016

2013

pale colour. Peach fruit, subtle fruit air, oak and vanilla with that, definite toasting. The palate is fine, and broadens a touch as it goes; it retains a spot of juiciness as it ends, cleanly. There is a wee bit of live acidity on its fresh exit. 13.5°. To 2019  Nov 2014

2012

quite a bright medium depth yellow. Broad, nutted nose – greengage plum, peach fruit inside, a little cooked lemon, a sherbet lemon freshness. The palate has a tangy, near bitter debut, a constant orange zest presence. It can fuse, and become more calm and together. It has light features on the finish, and hasn’t got going. From mid-2014, decant this. 13°. 2018-19  Nov 2013

2011 ()

fine yellow; honey-toast, almond-peanut aroma with flan that gives it depth. This is an earthy rather than airborne nose with shows of stewed fruits and oak as well. The palate shows cautiously – the flavours are subdued, suggesting nuts, dried fruits. No real distinguishing features, is a lightweight St Jo. The fruit is escapist, not solid at the centre. Is 14°, and one thinks that should imply some ripe depth. Perhaps post-bottling syndrome? 2017-18  Nov 2012

2010

thorough yellow robe, a bit of green in it. Has an open, outward nose – lime and exotic, guava style and notably mango fruit in the air: it is broad and forward today. The palate bears good richness and a supple texture: the flavours of mango, white raisin, very ripe peach fit in well. It extends on those notes, is not greatly discreet or nuanced. A wine that serves it up, is not coy. The finish is more calm, less flamboyant, shows a secure, fine depth there. Easy to appreciate and like. 13.5°. 2017-18 Nov 2011

2009 ()

restrained yellow; spiced, “here we go” nose, wax elements in it – good start. The palate offers gras and comfortable depth, lengthens well. Good balance, too. Discreet grip, a sympa wine with a chewy, fresh aftertaste. This is fine. It has sorted itself out since July, thank goodness. To 2018. March 2011 Previously July 2010 *(*) full yellow; very pongy nose – sulphurous, raw, baked apple, and so is the palate. Inside that outer bubble is softish white fruit, loose delivery of it. It refines towards the finish. It is incomplete now. 13.8°. From late 2011. 2015-16 July 2010

2008 ()

½ bottle: quite bright yellow. Fresh, sprightly nose that attractively beckons, has peach airs, a floral top with a discreet note of flan under that. This is a good, fresh, aperitif wine with enough guts and content to hold up through the palate. Its clear finale is a success – gives a salted adieu. The final moments summon hazelnut, nougat. 13.8°. 2014-15 Nov 2009

2006

quite a marked yellow robe; tangy, slightly salty, Mandarin orange aroma, is mild and soft has a hint of Riesling. The palate is quite live at the start, with richness in the texture as it goes along. Made in an elegant rather than full-bodied way. Can be drunk as an aperitif – drinks straight and securely. Skips a little in weight, but is very correct in its vinification and preparation. Has a floral aftertaste. 13.5°. To 2011-12. Jan 2008

2005

yellow towards gold robe; the nose is upright- shows nut and raisin, from later-picked crop, so there is sherry here with quite a brisk nut top note. Has an abrupt, cellar-worked, demanding flavour. A big-style wine with its construction by express grower design (tasted blind). The palate is dry-toned, and lacks the richness for its oaking. There may be a brief open window from 2008-2010 – the length is OK, so the wine may get there. Dec 2006