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The Wines

from 3 plots on Verlieux at Chavanay, largest sub-plot is Palat, 60% is 1990-1992, 10% is 2002-03, 30% (rented vines) is 1981, 1988, 1991, fermented, raised 20% new, 80% 3-5 year 228-litre oak casks 11 months, after the malo is done, spends 10 months on lees with no sulphur until 2 gm pre-bottling, 11-14,500 b

2017 ()

shiny yellow; has a broad, rolling aroma of cooked pear, some salt – it’s a lucid and rather stylish start. The palate is New Wave, so the attack is quiet, glides on smooth gras, is streamlined, has a flavour of mixed white fruits, tang and smokiness after the mid point. It grips, shows tang on the close; the finish needs to integrate. 14°. From spring 2019. 2024-25 GB £325 per 12 b i/bond H2Vin quintessentially@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 073 6655 Nov 2018

2015

attractive yellow robe. The nose is toasted, grilled, comes with an air of white plum, an inner strength that resembles cooked banana. The palate gives cosy gras, its fleshy nature in sync with the vintage. The aftertaste is honeyed. There is some fine acidity inside its well sealed frame. The finishing moments are nice and lucid. 14°. 2021-22 Oct 2016

2014

pale yellow. Fresh, breezy, lime and greengage aromas with a touch of vanilla and toast from the oak. The palate is mild, presents soft white fruits, a little spice, has a fleshy texture. Only a brief impression is left by this wine. There is a late glow. Aperitif drinking, simply not worth the money. 13.5°. To 2018  GB £275 12b i/b H2Vin www.H2Vin.co.uk orders@H2Vin.co.uk  Nov 2015

2013 ()

full, rich yellow. Guava, mango jelly aroma, passion fruit in the mix as well. The nose also has a flan touch. The palate is assertive, bears a peach-apricot jelly flavour and requires careful food matching, since it is big and a little glowing. Drink this with butter-cream sauces, Vieille France, Chef Escoffier-inspired dishes.It has a complete finish with a touch of aniseed that helps get around its latent heat. Decant it. 13.5°. €32 at the cellars. 14,500 b, rising. 2020-22  Jan 2015 Previously Nov 2014 *** pale yellow. Apricot jam, white strawberry, licorice airs in quite a rounded bouquet. The palate expresses quiet fat, rolls with a white fruit core, has a restricted flamboyance. It is clear-cut, but comes in François’ new lightweight, hands-off style, so is tame for me as a lover of genuine depth white Rhônes: after all, why fight the climate, and channel the variety? Botrytis was too much, but this has swung to absolutely the other end of the spectrum. 13.5°. £260 12b i/b H2Vin www.H2Vin.co.uk orders@H2Vin.co.uk  Nov 2014

2012

pale yellow; indistinct nose – a small show of gras, but isn’t a whole. Cooked pear with iodine, lavender moments, doesn’t work as a whole, has a nudge of acetate. The palate has bite, freshness, but is unsteady on its feet: alcohol and brittle content are out of sync, and it has a stretched feel. It goes in and out along the palate, not welded together, drifts towards the finish. 13.1°. 2017-18. £235 12 b in bond GB, H2Vin  Nov 2013

2011 ()

yellow, quite rich look. Oily, waxy air, traces of acetate, along with crushed rocks, cigarette ash airs. Has an air of candy, spiced pear jam – this is a big frame bouquet, has a red wine depth. The palate is quite high octane, tight-knit, compact: a wine just out of the starting gate, has travelled no further than that. It retains the sense of red wine in its closed, compact shape. Holds firm matter, and the flavour resembles hazelnut, peanut, brioche. Interesting potential and variety. From 2014. Decant this. 13°. 2023-24  Nov 2012

2010

mild yellow, nice and clear; the nose is just short of being weighty, offering a rich guava-pineapple jam or jelly air, a little reduction. The palate connects to the nose, so is obviously ripe – this is a glass filler. Has a dried fruits, apricot fruit, rather rich ending. A shade static - best with foods, as a result. Decant this. Definite body here – made that way. I would sip this rather than drink it freely; I imagine it with full-flavoured fish – monkfish would do well, sea bass too. More varied, of greater interest from late 2012. 14°. To 2016. Dec 2011

2009

cloudy yellow; bergamot, lime marmalade nose – honey is also making it rich and wholesome. The palate has a similar tone – possesses an evident, attractive richness with a steady beat of flavour. Has sound late grip, finishes completely. 2015-16 July 2010 11,000 b this year

2008

mild yellow colour; pretty, calm, lime and brioche bread nose with a touch of bonbon in it – this is a free vintage, no clammy stuff, but there are shades of apricot and honey. Has a pear flavour with tight textures and a grip from its oak at the end. There is intrinsic chew here, its length is correct. It is quiet now. From mid 2010 – decant this. “It is an aperitif style wine,” F.Villard. 7,000 b this year. Nov 2009

2006

even, clear yellow. Has a low-profile nose, with some white field strawberry, is tangy and a touch high tone. This bouquet is modest in depth and declaration. Has a mild, modest flavour as well, with some end burn - there is alcohol present to obscure some of the fruit. Not very expressive, is forgettable and I would not want to pay much for this. Lacks richness and depth. 14°. To 2009-10. Jan 2008

2005

yellow robe; melted butter linked with some spice in the bouquet that is nicely round and offers more to come – the fruit is a spicy pear. Discreetly full palate, in the butter and spice vein. Sound length, has an active finish, with good lift in its pear fruit. Good balance and structure, persists well. A live wine, with energy at its heart. 13.5°. To 2011. Nov 2006

2004 ()

yellow traces in robe. Bouquet mixes banana with bergamot, sound core to it. Palate combines dense matter with vivacity. Length pretty good, but hasn't come together yet. Pineapple/baked apple/brown sugar mix on palate, is a wine for food. Rich finale, with some refinement. Esp mid 2007 on. Demanding form of Condrieu, from the gutsy school. 2012-13 April 2006

2003 ()

floral accent on bouquet, fruit tart also. Pretty, stylish start on palate. Has mineral, dried fruit tones that tighten it, keep it steady. Sound length, persists well. Good style here. Some oak-honey on aftertaste.

2002

(cask) light, pleasant aromas; quite stylish, fair weight, gentle. Some juice here.

2001

broad lime, orange marmalade, violets nose; nice rich pear, touch of mineral, ends a bit early. Open, well-directed.