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The Wines

from Chéry mainly 1940 Viognier, fermented, raised 60% steel vat, 40% new-1-2 year 228-litre oak casks (of the oak, 33% is new oak each year) for 10 months, cask wine lees stirred, malo completed, the two parts assembled at bottling, fined, filtered, "drink with sweetbreads in a morille wild mushroom sauce, fried perch & asparagus tip risotto, foie gras escalope, truffled turkey, rib of veal", 3-4,500 b

2018

fine yellow robe; the bouquet carries weight, is grilled, on oak, presents a firm aroma of cooked white fruits, with herbal tea airs, hints of glazed fruits. The palate gives a pear in syrup flavour on the attack, is grounded, has a neat tannic presence late on, firm sides there. The vintage density renders it closely packed, so decanting will help. It is full on the aftertaste, with a note of freshness, spearmint. The length is good, vigorous. 14.5°. 4,400 b. €39. From spring 2020. 2027-28 Nov 2019

2016

shiny yellow robe. An apricot, grapey aroma comes with refinement beyond its open debut, has balance and potential. There are hints of carbonic gas which distract on the immediate palate; it’s stylish, holds enjoyable, fleshy content, and a very neat spicing and white pepper presence towards the finish. Its juice is refined, and it has the lurking minerality that is true of Chéry. The finish is sturdy. Decanting advised. 14°. 2025-26 Mar 2018

2015 ()

yellow robe. This has a creamy, buttery nose, a fluid air of compote of white fruits, pear and peach present. The palate trips along with some freedom, has a quiet depth of gras, a pear fruited flavour, and a tangy conclusion. There is a slight sense of late drift, but it drinks easily, and has a freedom that sets it apart from many this year. It’s closer in style to 2014 than 2015. 13.8°. 3,900 b. 2019-20 Oct 2016

2014

yellow robe. The bouquet has inner reserves, without showing all it can today: there is a subtle air of nectarine, white peach, a spot of ginger adding cut. The palate runs well from the off, holds refined, nicely filled content with mixed fruits in the flavour, apricot, quince included. A superior 2014 Condrieu thanks to its refined depth and consecutive flow. 14.5°. 4,000 b. €22.20 export. To 2019 GB £133/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015

2012

medium depth yellow, with apricot tints. Elderberry, light vanilla, firm depth bouquet that presents a solid front, a near glazed fruits style. This is close-knit, sturdy Condrieu, a wine for la table, VieilleFrance, sauced and buttered dishes. It has a near red wine profile and shape. It finishes with compact intent, is packed-in. No hurry with this. Decant it. From mid-2014, allow air. 13.5°. €22.20 export. 2021-23  Nov 2013

 

2010

off pale yellow, a bit cloudy to look at. Pear, pear skin, quince air that is clear, almost brisk across the glass, linden or tilleul drift in behind. Has a cooked pear flavour that sits in a rich but measured setting. Ends on the taste of cooked Bramley (big, green) apple – is a wine destined for food. It bears a little mineral sprinkle in the final third. Honest, rather full. It is on the go now, active and full. Shows some late heat. To 2016. Nov 2011

2009 ()

flinty yellow robe; pear, strong pear and pear liqueur aroma, along with melted brown sugar and butter under support, also spice traces. The pear runs riot around the bouquet. The palate is ripe, textured, a real mouth filler – it is wide and sustained, and in the manner of red wine in its late, firm grip. It rolls along well – a tight and very true Condrieu. Lots of body, a striking wine. 14°. To 2016. July 2011

2008

gentle yellow; fragrant nose, but airs of fresh acidity so leave until spring 2010, also some SO2 that floats above hazelnut, baked apple aromas. The palate white fruits have a glow in them; there is body here and a crunchy oak. It lengthens discreetly, brings out cut more than fat towards the finish. Not yet settled. The aftertaste has power, is firm. 13.5°. A manly Condrieu. 2014-15 Dec 2009

2007

steady yellow colour; the bouquet has some grace – it gibes a melted butter air, with lime and spice inset, also banana and high tone. The palate has a clear, true Viognier pear-pear skin debut, with an elegant run through, comes with a typical reserve from this top site. It can do well as aperitif, and refined foods such as simply steamed fish. There is a good little late acidity and clarity. The palate is very graceful. 14°. To 2012. Dec 2008

2006

bright yellow; the nose is reserved for now – shows peach, quince jelly, has a good interior that promises well for mid to late 2009; under this slightly frisky air lies a solid foundation of butter, honeysuckle. The palate holds exotic fruit, with a beefy, full nature behind that fresh start – this is robust. There is likeable acidity towards the finish, and I recommend it be decanted. There is a red wine meatiness in this, it is wide, has good length, is sturdy. White meats, veal are well up this, and of course lobster and full fish flavours. Glad it has got moving since last tasted. 14.5°. To 2014. Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ** level yellow colour; the bouquet has burnt edges, shows white fruit with a struggle for deep-rooted ripeness. There is a lime, pointed note to the attack; it is uneven through the palate, with a build-up of alcohol, and some late heat and tang. Never really settles. There may be some residual sugar. 14.5°. To 2009. Jan 2008

2005 ()

notably salty, white plum and quince aroma, with a little floral topping. The palate comes in a savoury style – pear/banana mix, with good grip as it finishes. A little end heat poses a small question mark – needs to integrate, and will be more open by mid 2007, but can get it together. Stylish, if a little reserved now. 14°. To 2010. Nov 2006

2003

pretty breadth on bouquet, shows melted butter, has potential for more variety. Good rich start, early depth and persists well. Lovely fat, tasty and rouned interior. Early style of wine, lots of pleasure. Aperitif, yes, but food, also. "I think 2003 should be drunk quickly - 2002 is much fresher and 2004 better balanced." R.N. March 2005

2002

(steel vat, cask) earthy, reserved nose, decent; apricot/peach tones. Quite tight-knit, spicy possibilities on finish.

2001 ()

brown soil, light pear, reserved bouquet; light honey, apricot, firm packing, decent width. Near-tannic aftertaste. Big structure, velvet glove.

2000

Coteau de Chéry pink tones on robe; even, pear bouquet, burnt touches. Gains depth with air. Fairly broad pear flavour. Not that tight-knit, bit short. Just bottled, will come round.