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The Wines

100% Marsanne oldest 1967, most mid-late 1980s, from sanded granite soils, cool post pressing decantation, fermented 50% oval 30 hl Stockinger oak vats, 50% 228-litre oak casks (10% new, 90% 1-2-3 years) (before late 2010s fermented, raised 15% new, 85% 3-4 year 225-litre oak casks 9 months, before early 2010s raised 20-25% new, 75-80% 1-3 year 225-litre oak casks 9 months), raised 8-9 months, no racking, regular lees stirring, egg white fined, filtered, "drink with fish, shellfish, langoustines with herbs, red mullet with asparagus", 8,200-9,800 b

2015

yellow, pretty full robe. The nose sets off on a trail of vanilla, with white peach in the fruit, a glow of ripeness. The palate bears a thick content, is ample, and runs with smooth cooked white fruits, ending roundly. It’s well structured to go with veal, white meats, sauced dishes. The length is good, sustained. This is STGT St Jo blanc, good and genuine. 13°. 9,800 b. 2023-25 Oct 2016  GB Fine & Rare Wines £208 12 b i/b www.frw.co.uk customerservice@frw.co.uk +44(0)207 089 7400

2014

full yellow, gold tinted robe, has a fat aspect. The bouquet is pretty big in form, but quiet today. There is a wide curve of peach fruit with a marked note of licorice-aniseed. The palate billows out on the attack, holds fleshy gras richness, and extends into a cooler, smokier finale. This has style, and I like the precision within its underlying fat. Good with chicken in sauce, vegetarian risottos. 13°. 9,800 b. 2022-24  Oct 2015 

2013

quite a full yellow, creamy legs visible. There is a soft drift of vanilla and hazelnut across the nose, an air of jelly of white plum and peach below, a note of white raisin depth. The palate bears an easy flavour of white fruits, peach notably, has a mild finish. This is a trim St Jo blanc, doesn’t reach for the stars. OK for the aperitif. It is rather in the modern school, where depth and food matching are off the agenda, and the finish is tame rather than running and inspiring. 13°. 9,600 b. To 2020.  Jan 2015

2012

pale yellow, fine legs down the glass. Salty, uplifted notes on the bouquet, has a white fruit-peach and licorice presence – the nose is quite direct. The palate offers a mild, fairly elegant drink, a few cushions of gras, simple length. The flavours are low-key, led by nut, apricot, pear, some cooked banana – nothing wildly obvious. It is a tiny bit neutral, but is OK for fish pie, salads. 13°. 9,300 b. 2017-18  Nov 2013

2011

mild yellow, slight green. Peach jam, orange marmalade air in a broad bouquet that has plenty going for it, isn’t exaggerated, has a drift of spice. The palate is rolled up, not showing openly. White jam flavouring backed by Marsanne honey and walnut. The texture is ripe, and it closes on gras with gummy notes. It quietens on the finish. Still tight. It ends clearly, has some class. From mid-2013. decant this. Good with pork or chicken, for instance. 13°. 2018-19  Nov 2012

2010

safely pale yellow, wee green tints. Has a calm, mild nose with no great features beyond a friendly citrus, lime and verbena tea air. The supple texture of the palate pleases; the gras is present throughout and is shapely, no chinks. It ends with a little cut and freshness, a lime clarity. A nice, unhurried style of wine of sound length. The palate in fact is quite intricate, shows some mystery, has good grip. There is a bit of damp wool on the aftertaste. I give it marks for its natural ease. Drink now – a graceful wine. 13.5°. 8,200 b this year. To 2018. Nov 2011

2009 ()

yellow with spots of gold in the robe; caramel, brown sugar aroma in a full depth nose that is solid, and revolves more around high tone than free fruit airs. The palate is chunky until it eases in the final moments, offering some “light” there. Has the shape of a red wine. Food best. Decant. 13°. From spring 2011. 2018-19 July 2010

2008

steady yellow robe; refined bouquet, rather salty top air. Tight fruit on the palate, late grip – this is an ensemble, the balance is OK. Drinking OK now. To 2015. July 2010

2007 ()

quite bright yellow with green glints in the robe; there is a lime, upright form to the nose, also SO2 that makes it “fresh”, also high tone with a mix of white pepper and dried fruits. The palate is buttery, with a caressing texture and silken ways about it. Modern treatment wine that is a little neutral. There is some late grip. 13°. To 2012. Dec 2008

2006

has a steady, yellow robe. The oak aroma is followed by white fruit such as peach, with the heavier brigade like butterscotch, barley sugar and white raisins hanging around as well: the oak dominates. The palate is nicely filled, the content has some squeezy, quite rich matter and runs on just fine – it is sound and smooth to the end. Has a clear-toned finale. This wine is notably refined beyond its oak – there is Marsanne with elegance here. The flavour reflects raisins, and there is good gras within. Rather subtle on the palate: well done, Yves. 13°. 2013-15 Jan 2008

2004

subdued, white fruit skin aroma with oak trimmings, and a sprinkling of toast and white pepper. Stylish, well-assured flavour of nut and stone fruits. Still holds an upright shape, will be more rounded by mid-2007 - it needs to absorb the oak that dominates the finish. Length good, this is a structured wine, with some complexity, and a good, deep root to it. To 2013-15. June 2006

2003

yellow hues; warm, honeycomb, orange zest bouquet, plus oak. Oak adds a chunky form to it; quite a rich interior. International, pineapple flavour. Rich enough - more interesting late 2005 on. 2009/10

2002 ()

(cask) fine aroma; well-knit, nice matter, quiet underlay. Promising.

2001 ()

fair style, floral/butter aroma; friendly white fruit, stylish, quite fat. Nice texture, mineral end. 2007-08