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The Wines

100% early 1990s Roussanne from sanded granite soils, cool decantation post pressing, fermented 50% oval 30 hl Stockinger oak vats, 50% 228-litre oak casks (10% new, 90% 1-2-3 years) (before late 2010s fermented, raised 15-25% new, 75-85% 1-3 year 225-litre oak casks 9 months), raised 8-9 months, no racking, regular lees stirring, malo completed, egg white fined, filtered, called Saint-Pierre until 2015, when changed to Lieu-dit Digue, "drink with white meats, shellfish, ravioles of lobster & a saffron sauce", 6,600-8,000 b

2015 ()

yellow robe. The nose gives a ripe vintage aroma – ginger, almond, a note of orange marmalade, with apricot juice. The palate bears a suave gras richness, marked by white fruits, peaches, with a tang and grip as it closes, a definite knuckle of tightness there. There is some glow on the aftertaste. Slightly rugged, but true enough St Jo blanc. 13.5°. 7,800 b. 2022-23 Oct 2016

2014 ()

has a pretty deep yellow robe. The nose offers cassis leaf or bud, ginger, aniseed, has character. The palate is graceful, the gras a really neat ball. There is a compote of white fruits flavour, and some beguiling cool moments. I find this interesting (tasted blind) – it is a very fine wine with hidden corners, and overall elegance, Roussanne certainly prominent, perhaps from sandy granite soils or loess. It turns out to be 100% Roussanne, so marks itself out as an STGT wine. 13.5°. 15% new oak. 7,800 b. 2020-22  Oct 2015 

2013

solid yellow robe. Broad, even “beefy” nose, has a good depth of ripeness, a centre of fat, butter and brioche mixed with dried apricots. The palate ties in with the nose, is very typical Roussanne in its lifted clarity and fine late acidity. Notes of vanilla and frangipan bring down the curtain. Stylish, interesting, and well made - it captures the finesse and the smooth gras of the Roussanne. 13°. 7,300 b this year. 2020-21  Jan 2015

2012 ()

yellow robe; has a rather full charge bouquet – oak, smoke, toasting, with ginger-apricot, the interior fat from the use of notably ripe crop. Plenty going in the bouquet. The palate offers a rolly ball of peach and nectarine fruit with a smooth heart, and a lightly dusted exterior which allows a sensation of added clarity and length. Carefully made in feel. Its gras reaches to the end, a quality. Drink with fish, cheese, pork. 13.5°. 6,600 b. 2019-20  Nov 2013

2011

medium yellow; the nose plays a waiting game – offers pineapple, apricot, a smoky nut, plus aniseed and melted butter together. There is depth to this. The palate offers a white fruit, flan-brioche flavour. It has grip, is reserved, hasn’t let its hair down. It has limited acidity – is more grounded than airborne. Has a waxen note late on. From mid-2013. Decant this. 13.5°. 2018  Nov 2012

2010 ()

marked yellow robe; has a scaled-up nose, cooked or flambé banana, with pear – it shows acetate, varnish and is not very nuanced, comes out "clack” There is oak and a certain, not quite excessive heaviness on the palate. It ends on a mix of nut and citrus, lightly toasted there. Best with foods. It is more contrived than the best St Jo white 2010s that are very natural, effortless. Low acidity is implied here. Has decent length, but lacks true soul. A modern wine which please that audience. 14°. 2015-16 Nov 2011

2009 ()

quite a sturdy yellow; white raisin, spice airs, but a touch pharmaceutical. This is a solid, enforcing style of wine with a firm finish, one that needs food. Has a raisin, brandy sponge cake flavour towards the finish – its fruit never sings. It also drifts on the finish. From mid-2011. 13.5°. 6,900 b this year. To 2016. July 2010

2008

pale yellow; apricot-scented, crème patisserie aroma – a soft, inviting nose that trails some honey. The palate has a wiry nature, a sort of trit trot of acidity – up and down go the hooves. The nose is settling ahead of the palate. There is acut and a lime influence in the flavour. The finish and sign-off are clear. From 2013 – no hurry. “It was always open from the start, with belle acidity – the Roussanne always has good acidity. I compare it to 1996, another late year with a lot of acidity,” Yves Cuilleron. 2019-21 March 2011

2007

steady yellow; reserved, enclosed bouquet – shows dried fruits, spice, has interesting width. The early palate texture is pliant – this drinks easily now, but never quite spreads its wings, running just a "play it safe" race. There is a little late grip, a mixture of apricot and hazelnut in the flavour on the end. 13°. 2012-13. Dec 2008

2006

mid level yellow; holds an oaked, constructed nose that is chunky in shape. There is some latent fruit. The palate is reserved; has acidity to drive it, but is clamped by its oak now. Is a mid-weight wine that lacks real depth at first taste, but I reckon there is some potential for future finesse here. May have Roussanne in it, and could do better if 1) decanted 2) left until spring 2009, by when it can have settled and opened. Finishes on a note of quiet richness, with a late tone of ripe lime and spice. Can improve. 13°. 2015-16 Jan 2008

2004

yellow tints. Buttery, quite full bouquet though not much variety, oak/toast effect lurks here. Likeable imprint of fruit within an oaked context, is well drawn and defined. Good interior white fruit with a spring in its step, the frehsness comes through well. Beau, this can live to 2013-15. June 2006

2003 ()

lightly buttered, lime tart bouquet, spice top. Fair weight on palate, dried fruits flavour, reserved just now. There is a live edge on the finish as if it has been acidified, leaves some end heat. Leave till 2006 and hope it integrates and settles.

2002 ()

oily, some exotic aromas; clean, pretty wine, elegant. Good acidity.

2001

pungent, dank white fruit/pineapple aroma; exotic fruit attack, tasty, obvious. Oak/fruit juice end.