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The Wines

100% 1950s Syrah from 45-70% Mollard (oldest 1936-38, av 55 years, I bought it in 1982, my first vineyard, 0.6 ha, the granite soils part of it), 30-55% Côte Rozier (0.6 ha, av 35 years, schist soils part of it), 50-65% destemmed, 3 week vinification, pumping overs, 1-2 part vat emptying/refillings, aged 25-65% new, 35-70% 2-4 year 228-litre oak casks 22-23 months, unfined, unfiltered, 4,500-5,000 b


glistening dark red robe; the nose has a strong, grippy air of iron-mineral, really funnels out, on rocks with perfume, violet-peony. It gives a very good strike. This is way to go Rôtie – it really gets down, into its hillside, and shows blood, iron, with firm matter, red fruit that impresses with its cool, determined flow. The combination of rocks and flowers is most compelling, all in one glass. The fruit serves to link the rocks and the flowers, two of nature’s elements, rather than a wine with fruit first, with two other touches. This is core Côte-Rôtie, a lovely swirl of red fruits criss-crossing it, is long on character, a great unbridled ride. Decant it. “This is usually 60% Mollard and 40% Côte Rozier, but there was coulure (poor fruit formation) on Rozier this year, so it’s 70% Mollard, 30% C Rozier, so is more on granite than schist than usual. I destemmed nearly all the Rozier given the coulure, which meant a lack of grapes for the stems there,” Yves Gangloff. 35% whole bunch. 50% new oak. 13.8°. From 2023. 2041-43 Dec 2019

2016 ()

dark red; there’s goof style in the bouquet, the clear lines of 2016 with discreet floral notes, dark red fruits, freedom in approach, definite rocky airs. The palate links with the nose in being rockstrewn, bears bright, tart fruits that have verve, an appealing combination of violet/perfume and iron, the red fruit neat with those influences. This is Burgundian, gradual expansion wine, with Northern freshness. It’s aromatic, crisp, has nerve. There’s oak on the aftertaste. After 90 minutes, it starts to amplify the palate around its firm spine. 13°. 2043-45 Dec 2019 Previously Nov 2017 ****(*) 2 parts tasted 1) (Mollard, 2 year 228-litre cask) ****(*) bright red. Joli, off we go nose that is full of raspberry and free run red fruits, has a top curve. It’s a very good start. The gleaming fruit on the palate is well channelled, runs straight along. There is good late style in its neat, firm gras. Very beau. Its essence comes from within, and fires the imagination. It’s long, too. 12.6°. 21-22 years. 2) Côte Rozier (new 228-litre cask) ****(*) bright red. Has a reserved, but clear nose, has the depth to allow mystery, holds extreme clear-cut and concerted raspberry, with tang from the oak. The palate has a stylish debut, with steel around its neat gras, and steady, reassuring length. It ends with a whoosh, travels strongly into iron filings late on. Good structure, STGT wine. 22 years. Nov 2017 Previously Oct 2016 ***(*) 1) (Mollard, steel vat, sugars almost completed, 50% whole bunch) ***(*) bright red robe. Well perfumed, raspberry fruit shows with a clear-cut air, which is frisky and up. This is well-juiced, holds nice, serene, soft gras richness. This has a good foundation, is aromatic and silky. 16 years. 2) Côte Rozier, steel vat) **** dark red. Has a forward, well-filled bouquet that gives abundant and free raspberry fruit with light powder, spice. The palate holds red fruits with a sparkle of freedom, running with real purpose. It is very Burgundian, has a Pinote angle, delivered with some crunch. Has nice length. 19 years. Oct 2016


shiny, nice full red. The nose is interesting, a sum of several different, discreet prompts, red fruit, cordite, dried herbs, oak, mocha. It’s a good cocktail to stimulate. There is very good style in the tight red juice on the palate, and a line of firm iron towards the finish, rocks to the fore; there’s a lot of concentration here. There’s real muscle within – it doesn’t waver, goes well long. “It’s lucky that 2015 was a full crop – otherwise it would have been similar to 2003. The 100 mm (4 in) of rain in two days on the second weekend of September expanded the grapes and gave a gain in freshness. I did a full 42 hl/ha yield,” Yves Gangloff. Bottled Sept 2017. From 2021-22. 2039-41 Nov 2017 Previously Oct 2016 ***** 1) (Mollard, 2 year 228-litre cask) ***** very dark robe. There is a lot of bouquet here – a major line of blackberry with smoky bacon, winsome violet – there is a lot to come, with variety and slight oak. This has a sturdy, full start, goes broad, builds momentum, rocks with inner strength. This is real eye catching wine, energetic – it goes racing along, even with all its depth. The close is toasted, tarred; the tannins dig in strongly on the close, has very good structure. 24 years 2) (Côte Rozier, 2 year 228-litre cask) ***** very dark robe. It has a smoky topped nose, then a real plunge of deep black fruits, coffee bean and mocha, licorice. There is an intense blackberry-mulberry core. The palate skips off well on the attack, breezes along very well, is salty, rocky, compelling. There is dense cassis here, with a line of sustained rockiness. Integration will come from, say, 2022. “I often find iodine, saltiness, on the Côte Rozier; I will do more magnums than usual this year,” Yves Gangloff. 24 years. OVERALL ***** lots of brightness allied to a intense content, a true version of 2015. It is long and sparky. 2038-40 Oct 2016

2014 ()

½ bottle: mild red robe. Blackberry, smoky bacon, raspberry show on a nose of quiet depth. It has rocky, rose-hip dabs. The palate gets off to a brisk start, with a quiet roll of blackberry and prune with the entrance of firm, peppery tannins that have a dry aside for now – it plunges into tar firmness on the close. The tannins arrive abruptly. The core of gras is shapely, tasty – it just doesn’t release a lot today. It will be great – a **** wine – in five to six years. “It was quite rounded, then tightened a lot,” Yves Gangloff. From 2019. Bottled 20 Sept 2016, one month ago. 2027-28 Oct 2016

2013 ()

(casks, bottling Sept 2015) dark red, attractive robe. This has an elegantly concentrated nose, gives airs of smoky black berries, has a light floral “powdering”; this bouquet has good shape and potential. The palate bears concentrated depth of berry fruit, with evident tannins leaving a dentelle, toothsome crunch as it finishes. It is all well rolled up together, and has iron from its origins present. The length is good and fine, the aftertaste peppery. 50% Mollard, 50% Côte Rozier, 50% new oak. “I started the harvest on 25 September, as ripening was very slow. The wine is now closing further – I like it a lot – it will come through. The years to drink today are 2012 and 2014, which are on the go,” Yves Gangloff, Dec 2019. From 2021. 2034-36 GB £456/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Feb 2015

2012 ()

the two plots that form the wine: 1) (Mollard, 60% of the wine this year, new 228-litre oak cask) ****(*) dark red. There is an appealing intensity of liqueur black fruit on the nose which is clad in oak, has a sweet, sturdy heart. The palate flows well, has steely depth, its late grip tight. There are small black berries present, violet touches. It develops grainy, ripe tannin; this is shaping up well. 17-18 years. 2) (Côte Rozier, 40% of the wine this year, new 228-litre oak cask) ****(*) dark red. Has a toasted first air, fluid, free wheeling black berry fruit, but there is a definite hidden underlay of extra strength and mystery. The palate is typical of its place, gives flashes of STGT, is very interesting, captures the iron and mineral of the place, leaves room for the imagination. It is very good at the end – this moves at pace, sizzles. Lots of live potential here. From 2016. Very good. I prefer it to the Mollard - what a good base for the wine. OVERALL: ****(*) a strong contender for a leading 2012 Côte-Rôtie, lots of local character and a sinuous appeal, a wine capable of provocation to the senses and the mind. 2028-30  Nov 2013


½ bottle: dark red with a bright tenor. Coated, stylish, smoke-oak aroma that is ripely full, gives soaked black cherries (griottes) airs, light vanilla, has a curvy fullness. The palate has a subtle inlay of reserved black stone fruits, is cased in by supple, steady tannins, and continues with light touch clarity. A neatly assembled, pedigree, interesting wine. There are mineral flashes on the aftertaste. 13°. From 2015. 2024-25  Nov 2013

2010 ()

1) (Mollard, late 1950s Syrah, 65% of the wine, 3 year oak) ****(*) good, ample red, legs. Black fruited, sunny nose, notes of black tea, blackberry and prune, attractive nose. Really good muscle and life in the palate, waves of black fruit with cosied up tannins after half way. Widens well. Tannins need 3-4 years. Long wine. 14 years. 2) (Côte Rozier, 1960s Syrah, 35% of the wine this year, new oak) ****(*) full robe, dark centre, deep purple. Stylish nose, red plum liqueur fruit that is elegant and fresh at the top, good snap there. Wide debut to the palate, has a thorough interior, firm tannins around it but keeps moving. Clear, promising, with stylish gras. Oak noted on second half. Persists well, has a graphite, tangy aftertaste, very C Rozier, is STGT. 15 years. OVERALL ****(*) stylish wine potentially. Good life in the tannins. To 2025-26 June 2011


bottling next month, the two plots: 1) (Mollard, late 1950s Syrah, 45% of the wine, 3 year oak) ****(*) good, full robe. Oily, floral, nicely abundant nose that is open and out, has a good curve in the black fruit. The palate gives the feel of mature crop – prune, flashy black fruit with good late acidity. It runs on well, is fresh, the fruit really last well, impressively. “Harmonious,” Y.G. 14 years. 2) (Côte Rozier, 1960s Syrah, 55% of the wine this year, new oak) ***** bright and full dark red; prominent oak from the new cask, red jam and jelly air lies behind, is comfortably ripe, layer of graphite over it that is bien C Rozier. Admirably pure palate, also faithful to C Rozier, shows cool late moments. All very orderly, and will add spine to the Mollard part. Balance is good, has a very good, clear finish. 13 years. OVERALL if generous, I give this ***** since it will marry well the two sources, and therefore will be balanced, suitable for drinking from 2015 or so. To 2023-24. 65% new oak this year, a ripe and concentrated fruit year so the higher than usual % of new oak. June 2011

2007 ()

1) (Mollard, 2 year oak) reductive, broad and filled nose. Pretty fruit on the palate – the attack is crisp, gains as it goes, the length is good. Clear fruit, posed wine. Suggests *** or so. 2) (Côte Rozier, new oak) ***(*) dark red; sound, compact red fruit with some jam in its air. The palate has pretty fruit, nice and sealed – has a solid presence from its schist. Very much a classic style, is very true to its place. This is heading for a striking vintage of clarity and poise, with Burgundian subtleties. 15-17 years. June 2008

2006 ()

the robe is still thorough, good and complete. This has a tarry, soaked fruit nose which is a bit one-dimensional, has lightly salty tones, and is edging towards damp woods, sous-bois secondary influences. The palate is also rather saline, and evolving; it lacks real brightness of fruit, is rather static, more copious than fluid. It is not completely as one, but there is low pressure this week, and it could be in a state of transition. There are dark late notes: it isn’t drying, so there is hope, and a little late mineral is also encouraging. Shows violet, rose-hip tenderness on the finish. 2020-21  Nov 2011  Previously June 2008 *** casks from different plots: (Mollard) *** black plum robe; smoky, tight black fruit aroma. The palate holds nicely full black fruit, with some oak tar in it as well, but it frees up at the end and stretches out well. Pretty content in this. The end is firm, but within the palate it is free and aerien, so the effect is rather graceful. (Côte Rozier) ***(*) purple, black robe; toasted, oaked aroma with a ripe fruit aroma, not excessively so. You have to seek the fruit which is under its oak wraps now. The palate holds clear, rather silken black fruits within an oak weave. The length is good, the finish clear. Has enough stuffing to go on well, has potential. Esp 2011-12 onwards. Overall, to 2020-22. June 2008


(cask) dark robe; opulent, a little boudoir bouquet – broad, with berry fruit and raspberry jam at its heart, plus some oaken grilling. The palate moves off reflecting some extraction that renders it a little tough. There are red jam flavours with some herbs attached, so it needs to settle and gain its composure. Leave until 2009. The length is OK. 2018-20 Nov 2006

2004 ()

half bottle, bottled 4 days ago - ripe fruit tone to the bouquet, comes in a ripe fruit/game style with a topping of violet. Same theme on the palate - ripe and gourmand, carries good, fleshy appeal, is suave with some downhome roundess. Has a minted finish, some tannins there. 2014-16 June 2006 Previously Nov 2004 ***(*) (Mollard old vines part, cask) ***(*) broad bouquet. Tight-knit palate, red fruit present, with a clear-cut tone, the red fruit is long. Tannins are well defined, stylish. (Côte Rozier part, cask) ***(*) prounounced black berries aroma; pretty wine – the palate fruit is agreeable. Tight enough tannin to direct it. Gummy fruit on the finish. OVERALL ***(*) stylish wine with clear flavours and texture. To 2014. Nov 2004

2001 ()

still holds a full, pretty red robe; plum aroma with some chocolate and cocoa – interesting variety on the bouquet. There is an earthy, partly violet surround. This is a wine with grip. It has a tannic foundation and a good, sealed attack. There is a light touch in its matter, nevertheless, and its interesting plum fruit continues softly and persistently. Burgundian in style, with great clarity of fruit, and a good tannic, correctly ripe hauteur in its bearing. 2016-18 June 2007 Previously (cask) *** some cassis aroma; very closed, a glint of stylish flavour beyond the oak. Côte Rozier brings extra juice and width. 2012-14.

2000 ()

has a soaked, sustained nose with toasted edges; it exudes coffee and plums, also is earthy – overall, is rather clumsy. There is a live, bold surge of black fruit on the palate, that comes with licorice, tannic lining. Is feisty, full-on and the shape is square, with the finish abrupt. There is the lead pencil taste on the palate, the aftertaste is also cool. The palate seems more pure than the nose. You need a butterfly net to catch this late on – it lacks harmony, and the fruit is rather bitter. The oak still shows on the finish. I would drink 2008-11: even if it is more wobbly, there may be more definition. Sept 2007, Copenhagen Previously *** sultry bouquet, compact, black fruit, animal touch. Blackberry attack, oily texture, silky tannins appear. Gras, chocolatey. Esp 2006 onwards. 2013-15