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The Wines

92-100% Marsanne, 0-8% Roussanne (mid-1980s) from the low part of Hongrie (more clay in the decomposed granite), steel vat-fermented, raised 9-10 months on lees, malo completed, filtered, organic, biodynamic wine, 6,300-9,000 b

2018

firm yellow robe; the nose is immediate, grilled, full of tropical fruit, pineapple, with vanilla pod-oak, a discreet touch of apricot from the Marsanne. The palate delivers good, springy content, has a well textured heart, extends well. This has richness of the vintage, with good verve in its delivery, is most pleasing, better for la table than solo – vegetarian pasta, mushroom dishes, poultry. Its firm richness leads into sound grip on the close, a note of aniseed there, a Southern touch. 13.5°. 2026-27 Nov 2019

2017

firm yellow robe. The bouquet is full, solid, on grape essence, nectarine, nut paste. Its creaminess sets it up for sauced dishes of Escoffier, Vieille France cuisine. The palate is rich, endowed with fat nutty matter, has a subdued fruit expression. It’s a grounded St-Péray of some force, its texture coated. The finish is rather severe. It’s a bit of a bruiser, low on charm. Decanting advised. 13.5°. 2028-29 Dec 2018

2016 ()

firm yellow robe. The nose is rich, ripe, on reduction, will benefit from air. The reduction means the fruit is “high”, with peach and buttery elements, accentuated ripeness. The palate offers Marsanne ginger-hazelnut, nougat-esque flavours, rolls with generous content, introduces a liquid honey, prolonged, nutty aftertaste. It’s tight on the finish, a bit tucked up. There is commendable freshness through it; the saline finale has some tannin attached from its pressing. It’s on the go now, bustles along. There is a wee bit of carbonic gas on the palate, which isn’t quite all inside the wine. 13.5°. 2023-24 Jan 2018

2015

firm yellow robe. The bouquet is sweet and well endowed with a honeyed, ripely fruited aroma, notes of sizzled butter and flan in the mix. The palate sets out a liberal charge of fat and content, has a savoury and nourishing centre, will go well with poultry dishes, veal. The richness extends well, and the finish is substantial. Very much a wine for la table. Decanting helpful. 13.5°. 9,000 b. €11 export. GB £177 12/b ib Clarion Wines www.clarionwines.co.uk 2023-24 Oct 2016

2014 ()

fine yellow robe. Apple jelly, mango airs and a note of flan greet the drinker, a sexy wave of aroma. The palate gives a smoky white fruits flavour, with quince cut present. The freshness rocks along well as it ends, a dab of aniseed and oak there. The length is good. This has decent style. Good with steamed fish, scallops. 13°. 2020-21 Oct 2015  

2013 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED: NOT ENOUGH CROP, WINE WENT INTO TERRES BOISÉES SAINT-PÉRAY

2011

full yellow robe. Cooked pear-apricot, broadly fruited aroma across the nose, a note of mandarin and glazed fruits also. The palate is close-knit, with bursts of flavour here and there – honey, stem ginger, nougat, brioche. It is not quite all as one yet, but will get there, especially from mid-2013. It shows Marsanne grip on the finish, a bitter tang, and is suited to foods, hors d’oeuvres, shrimps, Salade Niçoise. Has fair length. 13.5°. To 2018  Nov 2012

2010 ()

opaque, pale yellow. White plum, greengage lead fruit with banana and hazelnut behind, a soft and true Marsanne display – it is young and open, has a touch of saltiness. The palate is more grippy and sinewed than the bouquet – there is a damp wool effect that I associate with maturity, and slightly high fruit present. There is also a lactic note. It is a bit limited, even if round, on the finish. OK now. 13.5°. To 2016. Nov 2011

2009

big, gold-tinted robe; sherry-like, gourmand bouquet – banana, with layers of fat in the aroma, notions such as sizzled butter, flan, caramel. The palate has a tighter approach: there is plenty here, and a good feature is that it gains a more stylish side after half way, smooths out. A little acidity is helpful. There is a fine, pebbly sprinkle of white pepper and tannin at the end, so it signs off clearly. Very ripe fruit in this. 100% Marsanne this year. 2016-17 July 2010

2008 ()

steady yellow; wispy, agreeable hazelnut, along with honey and nougat in the bouquet, a little salty note. Tight, white stone fruit flavour, which spreads out gently, is fine in style. Has a good, sustained finish. Drinks OK now. To 2015. July 2010

2007 ()

quite a full yellow; peach-apricot, gentle aromas, with a definite hazelnut trail. The palate bears clean, elegant fruit, with an attractive, gradual gain in tightness as it closes, truly Marsanne in its style, with that spurt of clarity and mineral. It is well connected between its nose and palate, the length is sound. It doesn't have great acidity, best with food. Harmonious, elegant wine. 13.5°. 2012-13 March 2009

2006

sweet-toned, green apple style nose. Honey, baked tart flavour, with fair length. Can be drunk early. 2011-12 Dec 2007

2005 ()

mild yellow colour; broad, expressive nose – mixes honey, apricot and peach in an appealing way, and reflects the Marsanne accurately. A few exotic fruits hang around on the palate – pineapple leads the way, and then it gets chewy towards the finish. Comes in a full style and has a suave richness, so will be good with sauced fish dishes. Flecks of mineral on the finish – grip and control there which is pretty true for a St-Péray. 2011-13 Nov 2006

2004 ()

quite a bold yellow. Caramel and oak in a decisive bouquet that has a ripe interior but isn't especially flamboyant. Upright shape on palate, with marked oak, is a pushy wine with a peppery finale. The richness is well established, this is a sit-down, food wine, like the Fleurs de Crussol stablemate. Length OK, this works on its power. Good for cooked lobster with a sauce. 2011-13. June 2006