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The Wines

100% Marsanne (1975-1980) from loose granite soils on Hongrie, fermented, raised 33% new, 33% 1-year, 33% 2-year 228-litre oak casks 10-12 months, lees stirred, malo completed, filtered, called Cuvée Boisée until 2004, Les Terres Boisées until 2016, Ongrie from 2016, biodynamic wine, 6-7,000 b

2018 ()

(cask) pretty full yellow; the nose gives iodine, a seashore connotation, with greengage plum, apricot, shows oak toasting. The palate is firm, well lined with compact white-fruited content, the oak present most of the way; the juice is good and fine. It needs to absorb the oak before it can really deliver the goods, has a somewhat red wine structure, can be decanted. From mid-2020 at the earliest. Its length is refined, and there is complexity to come. This is top notch St-Péray. 2029-31 Nov 2019  GB £115/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181


(casks) yellow robe with a tinge of pear skin. The nose gives an aroma of white tobacco, salted nuts, fennel-aniseed, cooked lemon. It’s wild rather than channelled, is a little reduced. The palate bears firm, fat content with a move forward on tangy Marsanne from the mid-point, ending with a flavour off almond, nougat, camomile tea. It lacks the refinement of the leading St-Pérays, is a bit clumsy, could be fresher. Decanting necessary. 2026-27 Dec 2018


full yellow robe. The nose reveals varnish, peach, a tight dreid fruits aroma, has plenty of potential for a classy evolution. Grapey- white plum airs hum quietly. The palate links well to the nose, bears stylish content, a winning, suave feel to it, and serene, understated length. It’s a wine of subtle prompts, finesse wrapped around a well-sealed heart. There’s good saline freshness, a real spur of that, on the closing stages. This is refined, STGT St-Péray, with its granite stream of clarity. It has joli balance, fine inner body, is very pure. 13.5°. 2025-26 Jan 2018

2015 ()

yellow robe, pretty bright. The oak is broad, oaked, filled with varnish, beeswax, has a salted guava style fruits centre, ripe mango present. The palate dips into a deep bowl of cooked white fruits with a glazing of ripeness around them. Peach and passion fruit come through, the latter bringing spring and zip. 14°. 6,000 b. €14 export. GB £237 12/b ib Clarion Wines www.clarionwines.co.uk 2021-22 Oct 2016


full yellow colour. The nose is broad, pretty full, packs in airs of aniseed, smoked oak, beeswax, peach jelly. The palate is fresh, vigorous, gives a lifted white fruits, apricot flavour, the gras neat. The oak and the Marsanne combine in a tangy finish. This has style, flair; leave until mid-2016 for reduced oak. It will evolve well. 14°. 2022-23  Oct 2015


yellow robe. The nose is still on the oak, has airs of cooked white fruits, apricot, peach, banana and spring flowers. The palate has a rich, stylish debut with gras central in it. This is threaded with crisp, toasted oak, ends on tang and grip, still bitter from the Marsanne. This has depth and concentration. From spring 2016. “It needs another 12 months at least to get together; we lost 45% of the Marsanne crop due to coulure (flowers not converting into fruit),” Albéric Mazoyer. 13.5°. 2023-25 Oct 2015 Previously March 2015 **** fine yellow robe. The nose is rather weighty but stylish, gives an air of stewed white fruits, cooked orange, oak, has a good centre of focus. Its depth implies drinking à la table over the aperitif. The attack starts it well, with frisky life after half way and secure length. This has very good poise and potential, will be great with steamed fish. The finish is clear, and dentelle or toothsome, with plenty of grip. “We harvested in October, two weeks later than usual, so there was concentration in the crop, as well as acidity,” Albéric Mazoyer. 13.5°. 2023-24  March 2015

2012 ()

fine yellow robe. Soft nose, tender white stone fruit, peach and nectarine at its heart; it is airborne in style. The palate also links on quiet gras richness with a soft debut, a note of reduction. It ends with grip, understated. This collects an Hongrie insistence on the finish, is STGT wine. It bears floral notes, is stylish and beau. 13.5°. 2020-21  Oct 2015


mild yellow. Citrus, nutty first air that is backed by a deeper white jam, peach fruit aroma, and a good ping, a note of Marsanne bitter. The palate is stylish, easy to drink – holds good, clear fruit, here is STGT wine. It has a light butter-toffee and floral finale, the oaking kicks in a little there. A spot-on Saint-Péray- true, elegant, crisp, and one that grips well on the finish in true Marsanne style. 13°. 2019-20  Nov 2012


comfortable yellow; the nose is rounded, has some Riesling petrol air, lime marmalade and a little white pepper. There is a debut of gras on the palate, with a line of freshness that runs through its middle. It ends on tang, vivacity. From mid-2012 to allow more fusion. Sound, but it lacks some inspiration, and finishes a bit tamely. 13.5°. 2016-17 Nov 2011


steady yellow robe. There is a light air of varnish or acetate above a nutted aroma – the bouquet is wide, shows some oak. The palate has a fleshy, full fruit flavour – all the “fs”; it revives on hazelnut and oak-vanilla tang at the end. There is a light sense of honey in the flavour of dried fruits and apricot. Some late heat – 13.5° is probably low. To 2014. March 2009


some yellow in the robe; the aroma lines up towards almond tart, with a little vanilla and a waxen air, too. The palate is discreet, and rather in on itself. There is hazelnut present, with a limited expression now. The length is OK – it`s just that the wine is very dumb. Some oak and vanilla show up towards the end. Try in 2009 or late 2008 for more going on in this. To 2013. Jan 2008

2005 ()

light gold tints in the robe; quite full Marsanne nuttiness on the bouquet, with some pear drop and flowers behind it. Rich palate, with a restrained, semi-tannic border. Mint, nutty finale which is clean, round and decisive. Mineral typicité late on. Good core to this, with well ripened fruit. More open from mid-2007. 2012-14 Nov 2006


white fruit aroma with a toasted backdrop from its oak, and a shimmer of mineral. Round, quite rich, even a bit plush palate with a honey-apricot taste leading the way – very ripe crop employed here. Round at the end, its length is fair. 2012-13 Dec 2007 Previously Sept 2006 ***(*) gentle bouquet with assured depth, however - lime, and a salty tingle from the granite, plus an underlay of cooked apples, banana, and our old friend the damp wool; oak isn`t obvious. Very rounded, nicely bodied palate, fat texture is pleasing. Rolls along well, tightens a bit at end as the Marsanne bitter side kicks in. Finishes nice and buttery, but clear. Drinks well solo. At a serene stage now, can remain in this shape for 2-3 years. Good with fish, notably sauced, or chicken in a cream sauce, lobster, and major with paella. To 2014-15. Sept 2006, Vinkallaren Grappe, Stockholm

2003 ()

(casks) broad, floral edged nose; nice rich flourish, very full, takes its 14° well. Well-knit, quite square, length sound. 2009-10


(casks) mid-weight nose; compact, not very deep, works OK. Best on attack. Drink esp around 2006.


tenuous oak/spice, acacia nose; some fat, fairly rounded, then tightens, dried fruits/heat end. From 2003. 2009-10