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The Wines

1930s Marsanne from La Côte (granite, some limestone), fermented, raised 1-3 year 228-litre oak casks 15-17 months (before early 2010s was 33% new, 67% 1-2 year oak fermented, raised 12-16 months), lees stirred, malo completed, filtered, first wine 1997, 5-7,000 b

2018 ()

(cask) marked yellow robe; the bouquet has a ripe, rich nature, a note of “high” in the stewed white fruits, damp wool also. The palate rolls along pretty richly, is in the instant, carries dried fruits flavours with a knuckle of late tannin that grounds it, firms it. It’s not yet set, needs another nine months. The aftertaste is compact, a bit cussed. From late-2020, decant it. 2027-28 Nov 2019  GB £137/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2017 ()

(casks) gold-tinted robe. The nose is vigorous, punchy, based on firm oaking, and very ripe fruit. There are petrol and varnish airs as result, with a low-key inset of apricot juice, the fruit very much in the second rank. The palate is not surprisingly oaked almost in extremis, carries gras that can just about handle it. There is power on the finish. This is a scaled up St-Péray, and you have to like that obvious strength. The finish is on custard, melted butter. It goes straight into the drink with sauced dishes part of the menu, white meats, paella. It will be more comfortable from spring 2020 with less obvious oak by then, I hope. 2028-30 Dec 2018


full yellow, sub-gold colour. The nose is rounded, warm, has a mature, crushed white fruits aroma, peach, barley sugar, lemon curd, amontillado. The palate is its usual interesting, provocative self – there is a near oxidative tenor to the flavour, a compact, sealed texture. This has good bone, a tight content with firm sides. It’s a full wine for veal, pork, mushroom dishes, and it has the compact depth to go well with firm fish such as Dover sole. It ends on aniseed. It has character, structure. 2027-28 Feb 2018

2015 ()

(casks) full yellow robe. The nose gives a tight essence of white fruits, dried fruits, has the sun-filled, closed shape of 2015. It’s like a grapey essencia in the glass, resembles a red wine in its depth and closure, has vanilla pod from its oaking. The palate is also tight and meaningful, has inner strength, and really demands patient cellaring. It’s concerted and serious, and will go well with a range of hearty flavours – don’t be shy. The finish is broad and thorough. From spring 2018, and decant it. 14°. 7,000 b. €18 export. 2027-29 Oct 2016 GB/HK £270 12 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com GB £297 12/b ib Clarion Wines www.clarionwines.co.uk

2014 ()

(casks) yellow robe, full. The nose is oaked and so has a smoky ring to it (tasted blind); there is fat aroma of white fruits jelly within, peach and guava. The palate starts with a full thrust, and gradually becomes more direct and free. There is a salted presence here, and the flavour centres on glazed sugar, flan, brioche for now, not so much on obvious fruit. This will live pretty well, and become varied. Good with lobster, sauced dishes. 13.5°. 2022-23 GB £108/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015  


(casks, bottling Feb 2015) quite a full yellow, a robe that glistens. Oak is suggested by the colour, and the nose reflects fat, ripe fruit with an inlay of oak. There is pretty good depth on the nose, light camomile, aniseed airs as well present. The nature of it suggests old vines. The palate holds fluid gras, is fat, led by glycerol, so is suited to sweetbreads (ris de veau), guinea fowl in sauce, Vieille France dishes. It ends on white raisin, oak. This is a punchy, cellar accentuated wine - take your time with this. Leave until 2018, serve in a large glass. 14°. 2023-24 €17 export.  GB £110/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com  Jan 2015


pale yellow robe. Smoky top note to the nose, which shows a considered vineyard-inspired depth, has a stylish gras fruit aroma at its centre. Oak lines this quite strongly, but the matter is comfortably rich, carries an essence of white fruits with lavender and infused herbal tea nudges. The second half is solid, and it ends on firm gras, the length good. Is up to sauced dishes. From spring 2016. 13.5°. 2022-24 March 2015

2011 ()

(casks) marked yellow, sun gold colour. Has an intense, towards sherry aroma of marked ripeness of fruit and a deliberate mature style. The prime fruit airs are cooked lime-lemon, white Ukrainian raisins from the plains there. This is a doughty, closed, big wine, a red wine really. It is tight, packed, sealed up. Decant it. The fruit and flavour line up towards pear, with nougat, brioche, baked crust tart. Very grounded wine, it ends on a Rum Baba note. Choose foods carefully – Vieille France, sauced foods with Béarnaise sauce, for instance, cooked lobster, foie gras. 14°. 2021-23  Nov 2012


(casks) some green tints in a pale yellow. There is oak in a streamlined aroma, lacks variety and nuance. Spritzy wine with nerve on the attack, which is indeed wiry. It is not showing greatly today, is a spare wine, lacks flesh. It may gain in matter around its spine. Needs time. From spring 2013. 2019-21 Nov 2011


golden tints, mature link in the robe. Oxidative style nose – salty Amontillado with a rich interior, cooked pear and apricot aromas. The palate is broad, pursues a ripe fruit, caramel and lime marmalade style, gains extra freshness at the end. Drink only with food, and rich food at that. A shade of the typical Saint-Péray mineral shows up after half way. Decant this. From mid-2011. It is a bit contrived, so a wine for those who like full-on, the obvious, but I suggest it can be more entwined and close-knit around 2013. 2016-17 July 2010


marked yellow, pineapple colour; discreet, honey-honeysuckle, vanilla pod, lime aromas – with oak, and nuts. The palate ahs a good bite in it, while oak emerges on the finish. The fruit inside is quite bright, clean, lissom. The richness is good on the later stages. Best with food – sauced fish, Asian cuisine, chicken dishes. The aftertaste gives a Marsanne tang. This has pretty, suave richness. 14°. To 2014. March 2009


yellow tints in the robe; has a broad nose – there is a lot here. It works on power rather than delicacy, and reflects some white raisin and wax for chair polish. Has a rich, pretty broad shouldered attack, with definite power, and alcohol – there is a juniper tone to the flavour that takes me back to my days next to the tanks of Gordons Gin before bottling in Scotland. A hearty, rather unkempt wine that has its own being, one outside the loop. There are oxidative notes, but it certainly has the power to push on, comes as a one-off. The palate can be more refined, vaguely, and more open towards the finish by around 2009. There is some late heat from its 14.5°. To 2013. Jan 2008


(cask) yellow colour; oaked, obvious toast on the bouquet. The oaking and tasting runs all around this. Has a dried peach taste inside, where it seems clean. Some honey on the aftertaste, plus the obligatory vanilla from the oak. From 2008 for less oak and a more supple wine. Has some CO2 still in it, and will be OK if the oak subdues. 2011-13 Nov 2006

2004 ()

yellow tints in the robe; the nose is tight, and not fully expressive – there is some lime marmalade, aniseed and toasting from the oak. The palate has a nicely rich heart, and genuine good older vine richness, with a sound oak coating. There is a good ensemble here now. The oak has started to absorb well, thanks to the richness of the vintage (not the case every year). Ends on a little pepper, giving some late grip. 2014-15 Dec 2007 Previously Dec 2006 *** banana, exotic fruit style aroma with some salty touches. The oak is gradually entering into the mainstream of the wine on the palate, which has a rich interior. Notably toasted on the finish, where it is a little dry. Upright shape, but the rich core gets it out of jail. Esp mid 2007 onwards. Not at all a wine of spritely fruit, more one that needs food, bourgeois cooking. To 2010-11. Dec 2006 Previously April and June 2006 ***(*) honeyed, ample bouquet, in a sherry mould, oak here, too. Also a big volume palate - ripe wine with a tannic structure, and fungal aftertaste. Oxidative style with sherry implications. The crop was ripe to the point of excess, but there is some acidity. Oak and hazelnut finish. Food only - rich sauces, Vieille France cuisine, white meats. Not for lovers of the clean and fresh. 13.5° To 2012. April and June 2006


(casks) baked tart, sound weight of bouquet; apricot/dried skins, stylish start, fair amount here. Length sound. 8 years or so: 2010-12


refined cake cream/apricot nose; wide, fleshy matter with a potent side. Mineral/chewy end. Juice/oak mix good; refined, pretty. 2011-12