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The Wines

50-70% Roussanne, 30-50% Marsanne (1920s) on granite chipped soils, with alluvial soils on Belle de Mai, fermented, raised 1-2-3 year 228-litre oak casks 10-12 months (4-1% new oak until late-2010s), lees stirred, malo completed, 8,600-10,800 b

2018

fine yellow robe; the nose is speckled with spice, cooked lemon, floral airs, touches of white plum, has good lift. The palate takes a ready route of stylish gras, nicely squeezy in texture, agreeably massed white fruits, ends on citrus, tang. It persists well, has style. The finish is trim, rounded. It can make a bonny aperitif. It’s 50% Marsanne this year – “the Marsanne behaves better than the Roussanne in these hot weather summers, 2018 and 2019,” Laure Colombo. 13.5°. Bottled May 2019. 2024-25 Dec 2019

2015

fine yellow robe. An aniseed, greengage plum aroma leads the nose, with strength within. It has a toasted and cooked lemon aspect, some linden or tilleul. The palate is rich on its debut, its gras fleshy, then delivers a line of salt towards the finish, which grips well. There are notes of white flowers, honey, sunny early summer days. The close is clear, still quiet. I like the aniseed within this. 14.5°. Bottled June 2016. 2024-26 Oct 2016

2014 ()

pale yellow robe. Has a gentle, rather floral aroma, led by apricot fruit, and a note of honey. The palate starts tenderly, has a flavour of hazelnut, white peach. This is finesse wine with light grip, a small spot of gras richness on the close. Stylish, airborne wine, OK for the aperitif or with caillettes, chicken, sole Meunière. It could have more oomph, depth. 13.5°. 67% Roussanne, 33% Marsanne. 2019-20  Oct 2015

2013 ()

firm yellow robe, legs down the glass. The nose threads acidity and cut with white plum, greengage, dried fruits. The palate serves white fruit with a touch of stewed in them, an apricot flavour. It develops a slight tannic grip. This is stylish, holds sound gras richness, is destined for la table. It is a bit closed, so decant it – that will develop its length and expression. There is a nice linger of gras richness on the finish. 13.5°. 70% Rouss, 30% Mars. 4% new oak. Bottled May 2014. 2020-21 Jan 2015

2012

shiny, pale yellow; the nose manages a deft mix of ripe fruits such as mango, with the cut of aniseed and fennel, also a peach coulis. It shows ripeness. The palate has a silky richness, a creamy, fluid texture. It grips gradually on the finish, is all very round before then, and ends on a note of tang, spearmint cut. Its fat deals it a card marked la table, and it is supreme with an open fire cooked daurade that has fennel and lemon seasoning. The scent on the finish is interesting, herbs such a sthyme and aniseed involved, and encouraging. Less oak and full-on than in the past, with daughter Laure now at the steering wheel of this wine. 70% R, 30% M has helped its poise, more R included; 4% new oak. 13.5° 2021-22  Nov 2013

2010 ()

(bottling next month) mild yellow; reserved nose, on a grainy influence, and airs of cashew nits. The palate is also nutty, holds definite gras. Has not got its shape sorted out – this is not the final wine. The Marsanne at the end is a squeeze more than a grip. Judge post-bottling. To 2016. Will not be overdone, will sing a little. June 2011

2009 ()

pale yellow; lime, light fruit scenting, elegant bouquet. The palate has a measured richness, with late grip; its gras richness carries pretty well. Has Saint-Péray mineral lucidity though it. 14°. To 2016. June 2011

2008 ()

pale yellow, flinty robe; the nose is zappy and immediate – offers greengage, green aplle, is rather upright, also has pineapple from its oaking. The palate leads with a flan, hazelnut flavour, is nicely weighted. The Marsanne follows the Roussanne's area of fat and closes the shop for the evening, the finish clear and typical Marsanne. Good body, good grip, with a true tang at the end. Wine well suited to food. 13°. To 2016 Nov 2009

2001 ()

smoky, dried fruit/flan nose. Stylish, buttery wine. Rich content, mineral/spice edging. Good depth.