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The Wines

Viognier (av age 30 years), purchased harvest (was purchased wine until late 2010s) from 2 sources at Condrieu and Malleval, direct press, 1 night cool decantation, fermentation starts in vat at 16°C, then at specific gravity 1060 transferred to oak cask with fermentation temperature rising to 21°C, raised 15% new, 85% 1-2-3 year oak 7-8 months, twice weekly lees stirring until December, then once weekly in Jan/Feb, malo completed, filtered, 7,000-9,600 b

2017 ()

rather full yellow. Pineapple, papaya airs, lychee - the jungle is out and about; it gives a measured, not exuberant start. The palate carries fat, a solid richness, can be opened if it’s decanted, is a little reserved, which is what the Colombos want. It’s a trifle short. 14°. 4,000 b. 2023-24 Dec 2019

2015

yellow robe. The nose leads on lime, with pear, a hint of apricot, Bergamot, salty touches. The palate starts on fat content, comes with plump gras richness, a juicy intensity. The flavour resembles peach jam, with floral trimmings. This is stylish, holds appealing matter and texture, and shows no heat, either. 14°. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2014 ()

discreet yellow colour; the aroma is fine, a long way from the musky school of Condrieu. Pear fruit is on a high wire, comes with cool notes. The early flavour on the palate resembles mandarin; it gains weight, and runs with precision. A spot of tannin lies on the finish – this is a good close, one that helps it to be suited for la table. There are some exotic fruits and cooked pear on the finale. This is Condrieu in the New Wave style. 13.5°. 2019-20  Oct 2015

2012 ()

mild yellow; the nose has an attractive reserve, holds back nicely, with notes of tangerine, nuggety clear fruit, also gentle pear airs and flower petals. The palate is a tight weave, flint-silex affair, with a flavour of lime and pear. It acidity is good and quiet, and the wine fattens as it breathes. Has a little tannin, grips on the finish with aniseed. 13°. To 2018-19  Nov 2013

2010 ()

pale robe; good, live nose with active fruit and mineral influences in the pear, also banana present –makes for a good first impression. Pretty rounded start to the palate, proceeds well, is up for the aperitif through its easy charm, and absence of heaviness. Could have a bit more élan, but I note that it has just been bottled. 13.5°. To 2014-15 June 2011

2008

bottle 1 corked. Bottle 2: yellow, pear glints in the robe; varnish, high tone, pear and pear skin and bonbon sweets aroma – plenty in it, also baked fruit tart. The palate is restrained, more so than the nose suggests. Is a fine-tuned Condrieu that ends on mineral-spice, nice and crisp. Another good white from here. Pretty mid to late palate white fruit with flan and banana in the taste, and is long to the end. Finely flavoured foods good with this. 13.5°. To 2014. Nov 2009

2002 ()

buttery, banana aroma, tingle of mineral also; overt fat on palate, lacks a defined centre. Some fennel/aniseed at the end. Maybe more definition by 2005.