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The Wines

100% Marsanne from 0.38 hectare on Combe (granite soils, 1950s Marsanne, worked by MB since 2012) & from 0.2 hectare on Biousse (clay-limestone, mid-late 1990s Marsanne, worked by MB since 2006), fermented, raised 4-6 year 400-litre oak casks 12 months, then vat 4 months (since 2018, to encourage the tartrates to deposit), malo completed, fined, total 30-40 mg SO2 only, after malo, & at bottling, 2-3,000 b

2018

(vat, bottling Feb 2020) bright yellow; the bouquet has cooked lime, pear in syrup notes, so a fresh and ripe twinning, with a firm, dried fruits underpinning. The palate presents classic Marsanne firmness, is nutty, with apricot, also white plum in the flavour. This carries a good foundation, style in its gras richness, tangy notes in a discreetly fat close, with aniseed, soft floral, peach notes there. This has character, interests me. 2026-27 Dec 2019

2017

pale yellow; there’s good variety on the nose, which involves spice, white peach, aniseed-fennel, makes for an interesting start. The palate is soft, squeezy, comes with neat cut, dried fruits, savoury style, lingers well. It’s nice and supple, has an extended floral presence, nerve here and there along the palate. It’s a sure country wine, genuine. 14°. 2,500 b. €18. Bottled 10 days ago. 2024-25 Dec 2018

2016

the robe is a marked, gold-hued yellow, deep and even a little advanced. The bouquet expresses stem ginger, infused herbal tea, with a tilleul [linden] leaning, a firm dried apricot presence. It’s a mixed bag, not mainstream. The palate works on texture, which is wavy, supple, with tangy flavours, dried fruits, late grip. This seems to have skipped youth, and gone straight into middle age, semi-maturity. There is a note of spearmint that keeps its hold on the finish. It’s very much a table wine, for pork, veal, mushroom dishes. There is a wildness that gives it character, even if it’s disorganised. 14°. 2021-22 Feb 2019

2013

fine yellow robe. Cooked apple, cooked lime and pear show in a slightly raw bouquet. The palate gives orange peel, ginger flavours, compote of stewed fruits such as peach, a lithe gras richness, with aniseed and tobacco on the exit. This is pretty natural, ends on quince fruit, is a wine for la table. 13°. €14. 2017-18  Dec 2015

2012

pale yellow; crunchy, über hazelnut of Marsanne first air, with a lime-cooked lemon backing, a nose that is a bit tough. The palate is a grippy, tight affair, with nearly singed moments through it, the oak fierce on the finish. Lacks the gras richness and content for its handling in the cellar. 13.4°. To 2017  Nov 2013

2007 ()

has a lime-greengage aroma that shows fair, not total, ripeness. There is the air of baked fruit and nuts as well (Marsanne indicators). The palate starts quite ripely, but acidity comes in at half way and marks the later stages. Steady wine that lacks flair. To 2012. €10. Dec 2008

2006 ()

there are pear airs in the bouquet, which is soft, with a trace of honey and hazelnut, with a mineral top. The palate is a tighter affair than the nose – it grips tightly, there is some white fruit but the balance is uneven. 12.5°. To 2010. Dec 2007