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The Wines

96-100% Marsanne (1982, 1985), 0-4% Roussanne (from 2011) from loess, clay-limestone, sandy soils at L’Homme at Larnage & La Petite Pierrelle at Tain, cooled then 50% fibre glass vat, 50% 2-4 year 228-litre oak casks (until late 2010s oak 8% new, 34% 3 year, 8% 4 year old) fermented at under 20°C, raised 10 months, lees stirred, malo completed (before late 2010s malo usually blocked (2011) but can be partly done (2010, 2015), filtered, “drink with cheese, scallops, fine & fleshy fish, sweetbreads”, called Crystal until 2017 when named changed after intervention from Roederer Champagne, 1,500-3,000 b

2019

(casks, 15 gm of sugar still to ferment) yellow robe; nut-wax airs, good style in the nose, white raisin, light oaking. This is proper table wine, grounded, with juicy gras, a good shape, balance to come, length as well. There are fresh notes on the finish. 2032-34 Feb 2020

2018 ()

firm yellow robe; smoke, toffee, white raisin airs, ripe white peach, a bouquet that isn’t yet out. There’s good, immediate gas on the attack, a pleasing texture; this is substantial Crozes blanc, rich, serious, sustained. The glycerol element in it does well, underpins it, and it’s a lovely table Crozes blanc, a mini Hermitage blanc indeed – it has that shape. The richness lasts very well. This wouldn’t appeal to zappy youngsters reared on a diet of whites with acidity. The palate carries white fruits, spice, tobacco notes, with tiny citrus, orange zest notes on the finish. 14°. Bottled end Aug 2019. 1,750 b. €25 at the cellars. 2029-31 Feb 2020 Previously Nov 2019 ****(*) sturdy yellow robe; the bouquet is broad, rich, gives a fat aroma of white fruits, glazed fruits, roast nuts, is a grapey, sun-filled, buttery opening. The palate is weighted with the rays of sun of 2018, has a rich heart, real insistence, spreads widely. The mixed white fruits come with a little cooked citrus, mandarin, and are intense along the palate. The finish is firm, fuelled, very long. Decanting a good idea here. Its savoury nature is suited to butter-based dishes. 14°. 100% Marsanne. €25. 2028-29 Nov 2019

2015

clear yellow robe. Has a bonny bouquet, a classic Crozes elegance, with neat airs of lime-lemon, soft white peach, a nudge of aniseed. This drinks with great ease, is a bingo wine for the aperitif or salads, starter dishes. The flavour centres on apricot with a note of ginger. This is STGT white Crozes, lovely finesse, very well made. 13.6°. 3,000 b. 100% Marsanne. €9. 2019-20 Oct 2016

2012 ()

full yellow robe. A cooked orange, marmalade aroma marches out of the glass, a plump breadth; there are infused tea, verbena and camomile notes here. The palate holds a wavy gras richness, is tightly rolled together, some Roussanne present (tasted blind). The finale is clear, and shows a white tobacco, low-key vanilla there. Drink with fish in sauce, foie gras, daurade fish. Aniseed comes along on the clear, encouraging, peach-flavoured aftertaste. This is an out of the loop Crozes blanc with its compact gras richness and eyes on later rather than primary drinking. It is a bit like the Scarlet Woman – away from the crowd, causing people to chatter. 13.5°. 2019-20 Nov 2013

2010

very pale robe. Slightly sweet, rose and white fruits exchange on the nose, along with extra weight from notes such as beeswax and candy. The palate is tender, refined, unpretentious. There is a quiet run of hazelnut through it, and it ends calmly, OK. A natural wine, with no artifice. To 2016 Feb 2012

2006 No Rating

light yellow; soft, white fruits scent – Marsanne dried white fruits with pear and white pepper. This is uneven through the palate, shows S02 late on. Ends chemical, cardboard. Jan 2008

2004

rather pumped-up, butter-cream bouquet - the ripe, pre-ordained formula on display. Rich style start with some grip and cut to help it along. Flavour isn't deep-seated, though - runs out of road after its showcase start, fades out at the end. June 2006