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The Wines

90-100% Marsanne (1970s and older), 0-10% Roussanne from clay-limestone soils on Croix du Torras at Larnage, Les Pends, Mont Rousset & Creux Charbonnier at Mercurol, mature vines, fermented 3 weeks, raised 60-80% concrete vat, 20-40% new 600-litre oak casks 9 months, fined, filtered, 9,000 b

2018 ()

quite a full yellow colour; the nose bears a honeyed aroma, with a hint of petrol, aniseed, cooked orange. It’s not fully open or together as yet. The palate is also on the dumb side, but its centre is solid, based on cooked white fruits with notes of tang late on. It shows some of the heat of the year via its rather thick texture late on. The finish is lip smacking, and it leans towards drinking à table: sauced poultry a good bet, soft cheese, too. 13.5°. From spring 2020, and decant it. 2027-28 Nov 2019

2017 ()

attractive yellow robe. The nose gives a smoky tobacco, peach stone, honeyed aroma, an undertow of lemon curd, grapiness. The palate bears a cosy richness, a flavour of crushed white fruits compote, apricot and white strawberry included. It’s rounded on the finish, suited to poultry dishes, for example. There’s a nice pinpoint of lime on the aftertaste. 13.5°. 2023-24 Dec 2018

2016

bright yellow robe. Lime, aniseed feature in a stylish bouquet, a note of ginger snap from the Marsanne. It’s an upbeat and typical start. The palate holds attractive content, a white fruited, roast nuts flavour with a steady line of length to the aftertaste. This has the body for la table, and will accompany veal, pork dishes well. It’s really on the button, a wholesome, STGT Crozes blanc, with very good continuity and some late assertion, glow. 12.5°. To 2020 Nov 2017

2015 ()

yellow robe, some depth. The bouquet is locked up, has a ripe peach, Mirabelle plum aroma with some of the grapey ripeness that marks out 2015. The palate gives a fluid run of white fruit gras, has a mild roundness, and drinks with ease. It’s a floral, gentle wine, good for the aperitif, or hors d’oeuvres. There is a note of orange blossom, lime-citrus, towards the finish. 12.5°. 9,000 b. €8.20 export. To 2019 Oct 2016

2014

shiny yellow colour. The nose is reserved, gives a hint of white peach, a soft magnolia flower aroma. There is more to come with time. The palate holds supple gras and extends gradually. Everything here feels in slightly slow motion. The length is secure, though it is a bit on a high wire in feel. The finish has a bitter tang, more so than most. So: decanting a help. And placing it alongside clear flavours such as steamed fish, noodles. And being in no great hurry oneself. 12.5°. €8.60 export. To 2020  Oct 2015 

2012

cloudy, rather rich yellow aspect. The bouquet is broad, involving banana flambé, smooth peanut paste – it has heart, and a red wine, near tannic intensity. This is a fulsome Crozes blanc, glycerol and ripeness leading the charge, with another tannic burst late on, where there are oak and grounded, nutty flavours. This is much up for white meats, pork, white truffle pasta, couscous, is solid enough for North African dishes. Aniseed and mint feature on the finish, helping its tang. Interesting, out of the loop. It doesn’t try to play it safe, goes full out, which I like. Decant it. 2019-20  Nov 2013

2009 ()

pale yellow; direct bouquet – lime, fresh notes, hazelnut adds weight. The palate gives shapely fruit – bonny Marsanne in a restrained, fine style. Steady length on this. Drinks now. Charming, good Marsanne typicity, STGT wine. can do aperitif. 2013. July 2010

2007 ()

a pale yellow colour; oak, light pineapple aroma, with vanilla and honey in behind – a classic Marsanne hazelnut here in a nose of some freedom. Has a dried fruits such as peach and apricot, flan flavour with sound heart. Hazelnut and mild richness on the finish, a wine of tidy length, beau and bonny. Can do well as aperitif wine, one that drinks well now. 13°. To 2011. Dec 2008

2006 ()

light yellow robe; banana and butter mix on the bouquet – the aroma persists well. More of the same on the palate – there is a slight buttery effect in a low acidity wine; there is late grip, and Marsanne bitter as it tightens, also the butter taste resurfaces. The palate is savoury and assured, while the finish is more mineral and clean than would have first been expected from its attack. Best with food – hors d'oeuvres, cold meats, salads. 13°. To 2011. Jan 2008

2005 ()

yellow colour. Fat, buttered nose, with custard/flan effects. "Rich" matter, without being convincing. Its low acidity is an issue, and it veers towards the sticky. Not very compact, lacks cut and focus. To 2008. Dec 2006

2004

honey, ripe white fruits aroma, then a woosh of very obvious oak. Nutty flavour, but oak and a cellar imprint leave it low on pleasurable fruit. There is a stinging oak stamp here, that gets badly in the way. Freshen up, lads, this is yesterday's style. Or pick genuinely ripe fruit and swerve the oak. To 2008-09. June 2006 Previously March 2005 *** (pre-bottle) honeyed aroma, bouquet has broad potential. Full wine, without excess, gains grip through the palate. A bit middle of the road, but likeable.

2001 ()

quite warm bouquet, lightly ripe, floral mainly. Elegant, stone fruit palate, correctly full, ripe flavour on finish.

2000

gentle, rounded fruit aroma; quite buttery start, decent fat here. Gains richness through the palate. Low acidity, early drinking wine.