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The Wines

southern zone Syrah (1946, 1965-1981) from galet stone soils at Beaumont-Monteux, destemmed, 21-28 day concrete vat vinification, closed pumping overs, manual cap punching, aged 3-4-5 year old 600-litre oak casks 12 months, then concrete vat 6 months (until early 2010s was 50%+ 1-2-3-4 year 600-litre (mostly) and 228-litre oak casks, 50% concrete vats 12 months, until mid-2000s was 80% concrete vat, 20% oak 12 months), unfined, filtered, 20-35,000 b


very dark robe; the bouquet is broad, has a brewed, filled aroma, definite grunt factor, and strays south into notes of black olives, near jam-like black fruiting; there’s a hint of oak. The attacks delivers a savoury, refined and smooth opening, has a winning, calm depth, the old vines investing it with a suave and pleasing texture, and good quality fruit. The mid-palate is really well juiced with small black fruits, blackcurrants and also blueberries, and holds very well, the finish showing a little tannin for now. This is well structured, stylish Crozes. 14°. From spring 2021. 2027-28 Sept 2020

2014 ()

(casks) shiny dark red. The nose suggests reduction, has a plump ball of black berry fruit at its centre, a note of oak. The fruit is pretty well defined. The palate bears lively black berry fruit, splashed with licorice and menthol. This swings along a merry path, offers free and pretty wholesome drinking. Good with grilled foods. 13°. 25,000 b. €7.45. 2019-20  Oct 2015 


(casks, bottling May 2014) dark colour; a generous blackberry air runs freely across the bouquet, with licorice inserts – it is clearly struck, shows some grilling. This is a wine of good abandon, but also a serious depth on the second half, that lifts its quality and potential to vary and live. It retains that fullness and its compact black fruiting until the finish. It is still pushing at the door as it signs off. Modern, active Crozes. From spring 2015. 13°. €7.00 ex cellars. 20,000 b. 2021-22  Nov 2013


(casks/vat) dark robe. Oak marches through the bouquet – it is still stern, has a sturdy aspect. The palate bears modern, free flow fruit with lots of life and bounce and appeal. It has the floral joy and dark dash of the southern zone, and ends on an oak-char breakout. Very much going the right way. From 2014 to allow post-bottling settling, and to let the oak fall back. It has a delicious centre, is a techno style wine, but gives lots of pleasure from its fruit heart. 2019-20 Nov 2012

2010 ()

dark, bright robe, promising. The bouquet is careful for now, but bears potential – the fruit is ripe and unshowy, has tension in it, and has volume as well. The palate suggests interesting, slow burn development, with body in it. The fruit is fine, and shapely on the finish. Its balance is primo. The oaking has been done with care, is a genuine co-runner – it shows that well on the aftertaste, nothing OTT. Classy, has very fine fruit as I retaste it. Great around 2016. From mid-2013. Bottled three weeks ago. 2020-21 Dec 2011


(casks/vat) dark robe. Aromatic, rather tender, sweet fruit aroma that offers gentle appeal: there is blackberry with some floral, barbecue smoke airs. On the palate, there is evident black berry fruit with licorice late stages from its tannin. It ends on tar, and firms up there. The fruit moves notably directly, and doesn't spread across very much. The finish is stern for now. From late 2012. It needs to absorb its oak, and could have more soul - for that, you will have to wait until 2015, say. 2019-21 Nov 2010 Previously Nov 2009 ***(*) (tank for now, 33% of the wine, sugars finished, 14.2°, note) *** purple-black robe; nice harmony in the nose – crisp, live cassis fruit with quiet reserve of depth. Spiced black fruit with definite tension and rich late tannins, a good spot of black fruit – this will be put in oak. There is “dark” content in this – prune, black soil, ripe fruit, but there is also an austerity from the dry vintage, and the tannin has to soften right at the end palate. Has the gras to handle most of these challenges. Esp from 2012-13, life of 10 years for this. (concrete vat, 33% of the wine) ***(*) purple, very full robe; intense, very steady, well-set bouquet – black fruit air. Has a bulky palate, with a free run of fruit after a cautious start. The attack is timid, but the flourish of late fruit occupies the mind, with tannins that need a bit of taming. Promising. 10 years. Nov 2009

2008 No Rating


2007 ()

good full red; raspberry early air, light toast surround, black, oily fruit – very Syrah cassis. The palate is nicely rich, has plenty of gras, is well judged. Oak filters out at the end, adds a bit of toffee to the flavour. There is juicy fruit at its heart, the length is sound. Very correct red Crozes – not overdone. 10% new oak this year. Now good. To 2015. Nov 2009

2006 ()

(casks) bright robe, with black tints in the red; there is a sprinkle of oak across a black berry, pretty fruit aroma that is also laced with some black pepper. The bouquet is well assembled, clean and a little impersonal. There is an elegant texture to the black fruit, and the wine proceeds in a tidy, modern way: no offence handed out to anyone. It will become more local if left until 2009, but will drink easily enough before then, even if its fruit is a little international. Not a big year – the richness is low-key. The late oak infusion takes away some of its charm. To 2013. Dec 2007


full robe; high tone, acetate, prolonged bouquet, with ripe black cherry fruit present. Upright, made in the cellar wine, where the oak is in charge. Some squeaky clean fruit within, with richness for the future. From 2008, and hope it achieves more local graces as it matures. The length is OK. 2013-14 Dec 2006

2004 ()

initially reticent, plum-floral bouquet with some refinement - cherry stone aroma emerges after two hours. Black fruit jam flavour, interesting tickle of prune and violet within, also mint. Holds up well on finish. Has the damp tone of an awkward vintage, nice character is STGT wine. 2011-13 April 2006

2002 ()

(cask) light fruit aroma; light cherry jam, some end sweetness. Simple, drink with undemanding flavours. 2008-09

2001 ()

smoky-topped, cooked fruit nose; compact blackberry, nice cut. Easy density; mineral end. Best: second phase, 2006 on. 2012-13


(cask) evenly fruited nose; good clean matter, some cool, peppered tannins, violets, decent intensity. 2009-11

1999 ()

dark fruit/oak, quite funky aroma; violet, has character, taut tannins. More zest than core Les Chassis wines. It's a bit stretched. 2006-09.